i found a tutorial by Fletch in the KT forum: basically the method is the same, though explained a bit differently.

@kwistenbiebel said:

And now if someone would make a user interface for this with all the needed rubies, we have the 'architectural plugin' we talked about. 😄 (maybe with some extra stuff included?)

It would take one of the ruby heroes to make a GUI for it....

Yes Please, that would be awesome!!! 😄 😍 🎉

yeah that is how i would normally have acheived this, but i find it can be rather messy, not to mention time consuming.

i have just tried this method out, and as far as i can tell, as long as the road doesn't have vastly differeing topography, it is more effective.

of course it is always useful to have more than one method in your sketchup arsenal.

he he

pav

Cool tips guys, always nice to learn new stuff.

Hey, I tried this tutorial a while ago and liked it a lot. Then just today I thought: Hey! let's see what Chris' SketchyFFD can do with this. So I used it to make the skirt a little thinner at the middle, and give it a little whirl, and here's the result:

skirt.jpg

First I had to rotate it 90 degrees, then drape a few parallel lines over it, then rotate it back up again. This is in order to make it "sliced" transversely several times, so that SketchyFFD would work. This same slicing can be also done by intersecting the skirt with some horizontal planes on top of each other (I don't know why I always forget I can do that), or with Dale's knife tool included in his SDS plugin, but I don't have it yet 💚.

Nice tut as always Dave.

@unknownuser said:

Is that the Spanish version?

Are you talking about the program? Yes, it is SU6 Pro Spanish (+ translated plugins)

Thank You Howard, and thank You Josef. 👍
Now I can go sailing.

Remus is correct...it appeared with the PS CS versions.

However, you can achieve the same effects by using the "depth mask" as an alpha channel and (depending on what you want to do...make the near blurred or the far blurred) simply use Gausian blur to throw the area "out of focus." In fact, this will also work with other image editors such as GIMP (which incidentally has a Gausian filter capable of finer tuning than Photoshop's).

The Photoshop CS lens blur filter complicates matters needlessly. I almost never use it.

Incidentally, once you have a depth mask as an alpha channel, you can control its relative strength using Levels on the channel. Want things to get blurry real fast, as if you used a telescopic lens? Increase the contrast in the depth mask channel.

I also use depth mask channels to simulate the watercolorist's traditional "atmospheric perspective"--in other words, things that are far away are more gray (desaturated) compared to foreground objects.

If I have a little time later today I'll post some examples.

IMO I mean: In My Opinion

OK simon
Looking at the first jpeg and exactely that I don't want to have with the scale tool so it's why I take care with my curves and don't forget to gtoup them before starting pusgpulling your start shape.

have fun

A new video is coming soon on another way to model organic form ( take a look at my avatar, it's my first try with this technique)

Regards
Régis

very useful tip!

Thank You.

Hi Alan

Taking a look at your model this morning and i've found the points on the arch.
I was thinking they wasn't here. 😳 excuse my answer.

Doing a little try this morning and IMO I think drawing just points to infer on the archs is more time consuming than drawing lines like I do in the video.
I can use the lines to infer when I push-pull, sometimes it's more easy than looking for a point.
Using one method or another is not the most important just the result is important.

cheers

Was very usefull..

Thanks, Alan. Thanks, Alan. Thanks, Alan. I can never thank you enough!

yes, majid, you are right, the orbit tool acts different if you hold down crtl...

@unknownuser said:

The possibilities for beatiful pictures are endless!

isn't it ☀flowers.jpg

unfortunately the profiled sheeting is a "trapezoidal sheet metal". shape and dimensions are taken exactly from the manufacturer's leaflet. but I ended up hiding half of the edges now. it doesnt improve very much, but at least its a bit better.

Thanks for these tips Jean. Quite obvious to seasoned
users but no Newbies 😉

Mike

@sorgesu said:

Jim, this is especially usefull when making components that will be used in other models.
In that case, you may not want all of your edges to be hidden, just the ones in the component.
I am in the business of creating 2D face-me components and this script is very useful in quickly hiding without me having to edit the component and select, etc.

Yes, it makes perfect sense when you say it that way!