Everything Gaieus. What about applying the texture in Max instead?

Thanks for mentioning this, this will be a nice addition when adding stainglass accents to my windows in models.

I wouldnt mind having a go myself, good luck and wishing you clear skies and amenable clients

I would think that you would much prefer a logo rendered out of a ray tracer, as opposed to SU. You will get a much product, IMHO, once you can incorporate reflectivity, radiosity, and a custom lighting set up.

@unknownuser said: Then I remembered that I don't really have much interest in cars. LOL! C'mon, really? If that's true, I can't understand it - doesn't compute, but I bet you do really great architectural models &/or other equally cool stuff. @unknownuser said: The only different procedure I used was to use "follow me" to make the curve up into the hood. That way it already had faces. I found that to be quicker than angle move/copying and adding the faces. I also added some variety in colors so that even when things are smoothed out, I could see some details. Yes, great suggestion. Perhaps one advantage of the way I described would give the user freedom to vary the path in two directions instead of just one (like scaling the width sometimes, then scaling the height, for example). Also, I've had trouble getting the FollowMe tool to keep the original plane in it's original angle which can get messy after creating the sweep - this is most likely due to my lack of user understanding.

Some folks just got WAY TOO MUCH time on their hands.

Hi Pilou, you can´t push or move this bike using the section cut method. But you can beam it up. This is the skp-file: beamingyourbike.skp Flash-Animation http://www.sketchucation.com/forums/scf/sas/Tutorials/beamingyourbike.html

I use this method frequently when I want to show two views of something in the same image. The "mirror frame" and surface aren't required but I find that they help to communicate that the viewer is looking at a mirrored view. Here are a couple of examples. [image: smallbox1.jpg] [image: woodratcarriagemod.jpg]

Hi Solo, hi folks. Here is a trick I was once given in the old SU forum: When saving a multiple scenes tutorial, make sure that you save when viewing the first scene (usually Scene 1). This insure that the tutorial will open on the first scene instead of anyone including the last. This also save the final punch for the rigth time Just ideas.

@alan fraser said: ...A housebrick the size of a car isn't much use.

Thanks Alan for this. As per usual spot on! Mike

Heh, it's supposed to be a how-to in reponse to this question.

I am pretty sure it's a tool state that cannot be relied upon. I discussed this with Google some time ago. While it does seem to work for some tools, it completely doesn't for others. For instance, the line tool. State 1 might be a down and release of the LMB, and state 2 might be the second click to complete the line after you've moved the mouse. However, you can also down left click, move the mouse, and release the mouse to draw the line, in which case, the (hypothetical) state rule above does not apply. The net of it all is that right now, we cannot depend on the tool state flag for anything, either because we don't have enough additional information to go along with it (like how the line tool is being used), or, it's simply residual information that is being push over through the API and is meaningless. (And that fact that "we're not supposed to be using it - it wasn't put in for us mere mortals") Perhaps in the future it can be relied upon. Todd

What a great tip!!! Thanks Alan and thanks Tom for bringing it back up.

Well, not another "method", but there's [CASF[FunShapes.rb in the Ruby Library Depot with which you can quickly create (among others) horns, too. Yes, I know that it is first of all essential for someone to be able to model it rather than use plugins but when you are lazy (or in a rush...)

Chuck - good thread. Taiyo Yuden are generally very good discs, the best media in the world is Mitsui, but they are also more expensive too. Keep in mind as well that your computer displays more screen area of a DVD than a standard TV does - so when/if you create menus, make sure to leave a safe zone of about 8% (yes I just pulled that number out of my butt!) so that your text and graphics show on every screen. H.264/Mov files are not the way that you would ultimately like to go, when you create a DVD, you are outputting MPEG-2 - so better to keep it in that format if possible. Do NOT push your bitrate over 8MB/s, or it will not play on all machines - better to have it around 6 or 7 so that you don't get choppy playback on some machines. High Def. HD-DVD is not really a great idea - it is dying off, Blu-Ray is the way to go if that is really what you want to do. Best not to invest time and money into a dying format. In short HD-DVD has less capacity than Blu-Ray, the main issue though is with the data transfer rate. HD-DVD can only put out about 30MB/s of video (36MB/s total on disc) and Blu-Ray can put out 40MB/s (56MB/s total on disc) - also Blu-Ray isn't restricted on audio, and can go completely lossless - whereas HD-DVD is not as good a format for audio. Just a bit more info.

It seems that I posted some wrong link but James updated it (thanks James) as can be seen in the edit field.

he he from this tut i took just a shortcut eraser tool+shift=hide

Thanks Jean.

I went to the tutorial, right clicked and save link as (Firefox) and put it in the same folder that SchreiberBike mantioned, started SU went to Help - SelfHelpTutorials and it was in there. A great tip.....