Hi All, Hi Fredo I don't have the pretention to modele a ship. I only exercise on spline curves. In fact I exercise on curves because I would "design/dessiner" (for the fun) eyeglasses. In the beginning I underestimated the task and it appears to be a big one. No books related to that and no one talk about it: a secret or so. I imagine that specialize softwares exists but are not offer for sale. Eyeglasses are spline curves by excellence. Thanks for your answer. [image: ax6N_Frame-ClassicBezier.jpg]

You can colour edges in exactly the same way that you can colour faces...although you'll need to do it in wireframe, as the paint bucket much prefers to affect faces first. In order to see the coloured edges you'll need to change the setting in the Styles palette/Edges tab from 'All the same' to 'By material' as in the attached file. PS. This ability to paint edges is the reason that it is sometimes necessary to individually delete materials from the Materials palette, even after having purged your model. If you have materials still left there, registering an area of 0...but refusing to purge, it's most likely because they are painted onto edges...but you can't see that, because the usual practice is to have all edges showing as black, irrespective of their real colour. redoutline.skp [image: yP6K_redoutline.jpg]

Hi Antoine. That object is anything but simple to construct in SketchUp...a house would be easier. It will need to be done in at least 3 stages. Firstly, you would need to extrude a rectangle along a curved path for the handle of the spoon. Then you would need to deform it so that it is wider towards the end. You can either do this manually, one set of vertices at a time, or use the FFD (Free Form Deformation) ruby script. Having done that, you would need to add the semicircular end-piece to the handle. Finally you would need to make the bowl...probably starting with a flat terrain mesh, then deforming it with the Sandbox tools, before extruding it so that it becomes double-skinned. Then join that onto the handle.

@marcell86 said: Hi gulcanocali First of all I would like to thank You for help it's really helpful. Now when I know what to deal with it I have one more question, how to pull pull such organic shape. I don't want to be so flat. Best regards, Marcell No problem. Glad if I was helpful. For push/pulling such organic shapes, JointPushPull plugin http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=323&t=6708&hilit=jointpushpull by Fredo6 would be very useful I think.

@unknownuser said: It sounds like my best bet is to just adjust how I'm used to working. For example, when I have a window, say, on a 45 degree wall I would sometimes copy it out and turn it 45 degrees so it lined up with the world axis. Then I could go in and edit it based on the world axis and later delete the extra component. -Brodie Yeah that axis change in SU-V8 really irks me. I was drawing an ancient (circa 1907) V8 aircraft engine with a very complex cylinder construction, where all the push rods and valve rockers were exposed. It was at about 50 degrees tilt each bank. I created a dummy cylinder component (just a rough sized cylinder) and copied it 7 times in the correct locations and angles. Then I made a copy and set its angle straight in some remote location on its own development layer. All my construction work was done on the development copy, while any interference adjustments were made on any cylinder on the full engine. Did the same thing on a radial engine. Worked like a charm.

First, always get rid of any symetrical pattern, all that is symetrical can be cut in 2 and reassembled later ...

I know this is an old post, but this is exactly the same problem that I have on nearly any model that I import from an STL. It takes hours to fix and because of it I am seriously ready to ditch SU for Fusion. It's NOT caused from bad geometry practices so don't even say it! I can have a hole in the mesh and literally draw 1 line to close it and it will create many extra faces. I have had up to 15 extra faces on top of each other! This is a serious bug and I cannot believe it is still going on many years later! Most of the holes are caused when I import an STL into SU like I did with the example file that I am including. I have already painstakingly closed each hole up manually since I have yet to find an extension that can do this automatically. I bet I spend 50% of my total time in SU just fixing holes and deleting extra faces, this is simply unacceptable. Please help if you know what is going on and how to fix it. Thanks! Run Solid Inspector to see all the extra faces

Cool! Thanks Eric. I'll give that one a try on the seat when I get home.

I don't like the fact that there is no AppStore link. This leaves me to conclude that this app will be pretty pricey.

@unknownuser said: I'd like to create a ridge or "bump" that travels around the outside of the sphere. Maybe also add a carved line that travels around the circumference of the sphere as well. [flash=480,320:2yyggc2i]http://www.youtube.com/v/he6NGtExAGA[/flash:2yyggc2i]

Took a detailed look at the model. WOW, you did that on your lunch break! It's your own office isn't it?-)

incredible design if you imagine that this type of furniture started at 1937 .

Interesting method by TIG. I will have to try that. In any case, I just bought the sMustard script, along with something they have that repairs the dxf. Thanks for your helpful reply, mitcorb.

Hi, okto: You may be able to get some early working knowledge of Sketchup by tutorials produced by Aidan Chopra, available on youtube.com There is also Sketchup Go2School on the internet. There are numerous other tutorials on youtube. If formal certification is required- in Sketchup- you may also do a search on this. Which is what I will be doing after this reply. In Sketchup, in the top line menu(ribbon) under Window> Instructor, is help on use of the Sketchup commands/ tools while you are in a model session. These are just a few ideas, and you may discover others while searching.

Ah, maybe there I am. I'll have a look at the wardrobe.

That answers it partly, the normal map goes in the layer above the diffuse map and blend is set to multiply. But for multiple maps, how are the layers supposed to be organized (with the diffuse map always the bottom layer)? Is the layer order supposed to be as follows from top down or does it matter with the exception that the diffuse map is always the bottom layer?: ambient occlusion displacement specular normal diffuse Is blend mode for maps 1-4 except normal map set to multiply, or is normal set to multiply and maps 1-3 (ambient occlusion, displacement, and specular) set to overlay? Do normal and ambient occlusion maps need to be desaturated first or does it matter that these are not greyscale?

Most of the work will probably be needed to be done in Photoshop...or whatever image editor you are using. It also depends on whether you mean an 'English' thatched roof or a Polynesian/Caribbean one. If it's the former, you'll need to find a suitable thatch texture on the Net and make it seamless; then also find a suitable 'cut-end' texture for where it curves back underneath towards the wall. If it's a tropical thatch roof, you'll need the same general thatch texture but also another one in transparent png format for the fringe of the roof. The actual geometry for both roofs can be left fairly simple. This Tiki Bar is little more than a fringed umbrella. [image: 8Ev3_tiki2.jpg]