Thank-you both... since I realized the math may be a bit abstract I created a model to illustrate what is being calculated. The plane at the bottom represents the "filmback/sensor" of the camera. The cone represents the image being projected through the camera "lens" onto the "filmback/sensor" from the idealized "Normal" focal length. The idea is that the closer the lens is to the filmback/sensor (short focal length = the cone gets smaller) the more perspective distortion creeps in -- Conversely if the lens is moved further away from the filmback/sensor(long focal length = the cone gets larger) the less perspective you will see. As you change the size of the desired output image the filmback/sensor size changes to match which makes the lens projection of the focal length no longer match the desired perspective distortion. Ideally there is a balanced placement of the lens from the filmback/sensor which creates "Normal" perspective as we humans generally see it with our naked eyes... but since when you change the filmback/sensor size the focal length is no longer the same, "Normal" perspective is a constantly moving target. This was not as large of an issue in real cameras as the film/sensor size was not very likely to change in any given camera, but since we can and do change those parameters in 3D there needs to be some way to predict "normal" perspective for any given output. This DC has also been modified to create calculations for 35mm equivalent focal lengths -- which could also be desirable, because again the same goal is the point: consistency of output regardless of aspect ratio. I have updated the first post to contain the new version. Best, Jason.

Hi folks. You can also use a Zoom Window to get real fast close to the cable end. You can also make a scene showing all cables and their surrounding. You do this only once. Then, clicking on this scene's tab would quickly get you to the big picture. Of course, you can also use the Move Tool to stretch a cable after grabbing its end. Just ideas.

This a image [image: rollator.jpg] Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The problem is the UI in sketchup, it was designed to be used on a 2d screen, to model in Real 3D using sketchup Trimble will need to redesign the UI for use in 3D, can it be done, yes of course, are they doing it? unfortunately not

@gaieus said: 2007 October/November That's when I started my new job and began to use SketchUp. nostalgia

Thanks D12 that is what I am searching for and to apply it to a face as "Make Fur" is applied would be so useful.

@unknownuser said: Maybe google can make a special v6 with no shadow bug for you I am dreaming of that A cool after-sales service department along ten years

@hassanykb: Are you talking about photorealistic renders, perhaps? Or are you talking about all lines in an elevation being the desired length? These questions lead to two different paths. What is your experience level with this program?

Add this to list: Delete internal faces and edges concealed within the model volume if not pertinent to final result. That means editing groups, components, or loose geometry intersecting, piercing, or enveloping other stuff.

Wow, what fantastic replies! I can't thank you all enough for the info. I'd never even heard of Vray before, but I like the idea of checking several different versions out. (I'd never heard of photosculpt either, but that is just plain wicked cool.) Unfortunately, my laptop is definitely NOT built for fast rendering-I had no idea I'd get into this when I bought it-but I guess that's why you can leave it on overnight. Right now, just based on replies, I'm leaning towards Twilight. That museum is exactly what I had in mind for my model. But I'll try a few of them and see what works best. Again, thanks so much!

It doesn't appear that there is, Paul. You can try it yourself by pressing the various combinations of modifiers and the trackpad buttons. You could use O, the default keyboard shortcut, to activate the Orbit tool or assign a different one. Once you have the Orbit tool active, pressing Shift will activate Pan.

Thanks for the pointers.

I use Vali Architects instant roof. It has a feature to add details to a roof. The slate option looks like cladding. The script requires you to rotate the wall like a roof before it will allow you to add it, but then I just tilt it back.

Thanks, that was very helpful and now works a treat. I've got a lot to learn buts it's been fun so far

Hi Kerry, It's me "again" (from this topic). Well, if the model was several kms away, moving it to the origin was definitely a good idea (for several but not necessarily related reasons). However I am still not wiser about the issue itself. Would there be any chance to share the model itself?

I'm not surprised there's been no response. You've given us almost no useful information that would help us in guiding you to a solution.

I've seen priced downloads of Google Earth (free version otherwise) on certain websites, too. Look at the official GE Help Forums - they are full of these scams. Then in certain countries it is a common practice to sell cracked versions of software. We have banned some members for this here already (no names/names mentioned - and of course, this is not threatening...)

thanks, I will check it out.

Open the old SketchUp file in SketchUp. Open the Styles browser. Open the secondary pane. (little plus icon in upper right corner of Styles browser.) Set one pane to In Model. (click on the house icon) Set the the other pane to an existing library or make a new one. Click on and drag the thumbnail for the style from In Model to the other pane. That will save your style for future use. Now, to share the style, navigate to the folder in which you saved the style and you should see it to attach it to a post here. As to your second question, you can open a style in Style Builder and make modifications to it as desired.

It is required as part of pro version purchase.