There are two or three things here that are worth mentioning: When you apply an image on a face and apply the same image on its reverse, the latter one is always flipped (or mirrored). This is particularly useful and essential when you apply semi transparent images to create 2D plants for instance. Without this feature you'd always keep manually flipping them all the time a simple face drawn on the xy plane shows its reverse face upwards because SU presumes that that's going to be the bottom of any structure you are going to build on top (above the ground level). And unless you use the PP tool, it's correctly oriented since it will be facing inside. In fact, the PP tool is the "exception" because when you start to use it, it flickers a little bit until "realises" that you are going to push/pull that face up and immediately - very smartly - decides to leavi it like that (the flickering actually being the new face and the old one z fighting a bit). Orient faces work best when there is just a simple volume surrounded by the faces (i.e. no wall thickness, no faces that may face either this way or the other etc.). Once you have several volumes combined together, SU may not be able to decide what is outside and what is not. Try a simple test: Draw a rectangle PP it up to a certain hight now Ctrl+PP it up to another height (leaving a face in between). This face is a single face and how SU should be able to decide that when orienting faces, where it should orient? Click on any of the outside faces and choose orient faces. You'll see the screwed up result.

solo, very nice... I'm still trying to figure out how to do it, but basically you have what I'm looking for... I just need to figure out how to create the canvas on the back of the apparatus...

As remus wrote, in addition to turning AA off, increase your virtual memory to the maximum allowable (in XP at least - dunno 'bout Vista). Virtual memory can be found in the advanced tab of the systems properties window, and you'll set the minimum and maximum. Generally, it's set at a lower amount than the maximum possible (which I believe is related to your RAM).

Nice image Mateo I would like to see it without the fog effect.

we can always hope!

I don't see the Ketchup's bottle!

ah, I see. so blue may not be the ideal colour if you (like me at the moment) work with an old and fairly bad laptop screen - violet and blue are too much alike. thanks for the info, Alan

Thank You.

hey, thanks guys, taht helped a ton! the push/pull thing hasnt been resolved, but i did eliminate the clipping and heres how: i simply took the geometry i wanted to not clip and copyed it to my clipboard (ctrl + c) and then oppened a new file and ensured that there was no clipping going on. then i saved the file and then pasted the previously copyed geometry and it worked! thanks again for the help.

Smoothing won't physically round-off the edges...for that you would need to use a subdivide tool, like the recently released Subdivide & Smooth Ruby script. A more exact and efficent way of doing it would be to model the gun the way it actually is...using circles/arcs...rather than just tracing it and Push/Pulling. There is a similar thread here. I explain how it's done about halfway down the thread.

betod, your profile indicates you have SketchUp pro. Use LayOut to do what you want to do. Make the required scenes in SketchUp. Make sure you have the camera set to Parallel Projection Then use those scenes as the viewports in LayOut. Set the scale as needed.

Well im pretty sure that isnt in a current release, so perhaps its part of a future planned release. If you want a definitive answer you'll want to send cphillips a PM.

Thanks a bunch,That really helps alot. Everyone here has been so helpful. Thanks again

Hi Howdy, hi folks. Try going to your Keyboard/Mouse Control panel and set the middle button (scroll wheel) as button number 3. This is how my Apple cordless Mighty Mouse is set. Just ideas.

Hi Alan Taking a look at your model this morning and i've found the points on the arch. I was thinking they wasn't here. excuse my answer. Doing a little try this morning and IMO I think drawing just points to infer on the archs is more time consuming than drawing lines like I do in the video. I can use the lines to infer when I push-pull, sometimes it's more easy than looking for a point. Using one method or another is not the most important just the result is important. cheers

Tom Thanks for the lower poly model, it will look good from higher viewpoints. Its horses for courses. 1 Very close in - model individual tiles/slates 2 Low angle (medium distance) - use modelled roof (ie mine) 3 higher angle (medium distance to infinity (and beyond!)) - use material only This has got me re-thinking roofs, as you have now modelled the eaves boxing etc. why not take another step and also model the gutter. I keep adding gutters seperately and modelling them into this component will save time (I may also model the brackets while I'm at it!) David

now you made me really curious! I use the outliner of course to keep an overview over large models. I am aware of the possibility to group/explode or make component within the outliner. I also know, that you can select a number of entities and hide or lock them. but are there some other tricks I do not know yet. now I am eager to find out more (to grasp the true potential of that little inconspicuous window)

@unknownuser said: Is that the Spanish version? Are you talking about the program? Yes, it is SU6 Pro Spanish (+ translated plugins)

Thanks for that Irv. I like the idea of having the joint as a separate component.

Hi, I had (have) the same prolem with the 2.5 D trees I use. I have noticed that if for instance the window and the tree are NOT in a group there is no problem. But if the window is in a separate group (what I usually do for easy editing) it 'shines' thru the 'alpha channeld' tree. (png texture). Hope it is of some use. erikB