When you export a 3D DXF it's created with the 'Units' that are currently set in 'Model Info'. In your case 'cm' - so a line 10cm long has its length set in the 3D DXF as '10.0' When you export a 2D DXF it's always made in 'inches' - you cannot change this. So a line that was 10cm long in SUp now has its length in the 2D DXF as 3.937007874016 (inches) [1/2.54] However, if you know it was in 'cm' and is now in 'inches' then you can easily apply a scaling factor to all of its contents, following the above guidance...

Yes, I have been researching it. But the project is on hold until I get some others out of the way. However, ToolsOnSurface's offset should usually yield a better result than the native Offset.

Thanks for your comments guys, but I am using the outliner for hiding/showing components as I believe it is designed to be used and I think my observation is still a valid one. Would be great if google added a show/hide tick box next to your components/groups like layers does. Far too easy to pick erase instead of hide with right-click selection in the outliner. [image: LIpH_outliner.jpg]

@tig said: This happened to most users a week or two ago - it told you even if you had the latest version [rubbish update checker by Google means you get nagged when you do have the latest version !?]... Your PC seems to be just slow in catching up "I forgot to wind the sundial. Now it's stuck on yesterday." R. Hunter

The sugestions where above me through lack of knowedge. So in desperation I did what I had done before and attached a line and it worked, I don't know why, my computer must have had a "good day" or maybe me. I have learnt a bit more though that copies of components are less "hungry" than the originals. Thanks for that. John Drawing to explain.

What TIG says is ver important. Always model to real scale and separate your geometry by grouping parts together (or - when there are more instances of the same object, use components). Texturing should not be an issue. The part over the entrance can easily be textured with a projected photo of the thatch material and also the conical end is not that hard. We can get back to it when you finished those two parts and already have some good thatch material.

Sounds like a cool project, can't wait to see a rough... btw, I vote 'word-picture is a bit blurry' for the euphemystic metaphor of the month-award

rufy, can you post the png, or a screenshot showing the problem?

Outstanding Tig, thanks.

Make a Style to suit what you want. For example, this is a built-in 'gradient' light blue sky + a white background [image: FKUb_Capture.PNG] This is a darker blue sky with green ground ticked - they have gradients [image: 4aV0_Capture1.PNG] If you want something more dramatic use a watermark 'gradient' background image stretched across the whole screen, like this [image: 97Rg_Capture2.PNG] or this [image: cAg2_Capture3.PNG]

Thanks Dylan. Will have a look....

thanks..yes, I just came to that conclusion. Much faster with 3 scroll wheel..thanks again..

These and these are quite good IMO.

OK, I overlaid a curved segment with the required number and used that as a guide as suggested. Thanks !

The second link shows a SU (Pro), OBJ export into PS CS3 (Extended version) with textures, etc. Did you use it to create the OBJ file? If not perhaps the translator used did not export textures. The link also states that SU (Free), v.7 KMZ files work with PS CS3 (Extended version).

When you are at editing your image as per Chris' method above, you can also load the colour version of GE instead of the b&w one imported to SU. In order to do this, make sure that when you import the GE snapshot, before navigating away from the exact viewpoint in GE, turn off all visible layers (such as roads, YouTube vidoes, any inscriptions, placemarks, 3D buildings and all) so that you get the clear GE view only go to file > save > save image (this will save the colour GE image) in your SU material browser, click on the b&w image, go to the edit tab and reload your image (see attached) Right there, there is another button you can open the reloaded (and now already colour) image with. [image: sCRY_ReloadGEImage.png] Also, if you want to edit the GE terrain (adding details with the Sandbox tools for instance), unlock the GE snapshot as well as the GE terrain, open the snapshot group, right click on the face, go to Texture > Projected sample this projected material with the Alt+Paint bucket tool (it will turn into a sampler or eyedropper) exit the snapshot group, toggle to the terrain, open it and paint it with the sampled/projected material. Whatever minor changes you are going to do now, will not clutter your projected material on the GE terrain now. See this example file with a reloaded material (this is the historic centre of my home town) Pecs_with_my_home.skp

try not doing all at once. just convert as you go, convert those that you really need and use. Once you got one mxm-material well done with arroway's images you can dupicate it and finetune again for each material. I have all arroway textures and only convert "on demand". its an endless job trying to do all at once. And when you're done Maxwell's material editor may change or update and you have to go through them all again. Francois

Many thx! Not for me but for guys who want to know! You win a futur dédicasse by a crazzy artist