True, very true. Also, if you make such round corners often, here is a useful plugin: http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?t=10370

Hi Babycody, While that is a nicely modelled shelves, I have to say it is not modelled efficiently at all. The whole thing should have made up of smaller components instead of this raw geometry. Anyway, based on the model ("as is" - since I could have found a more logical way of dividing the vertical rack)), I identified a piece that is repetitive in the racks and turned it into a component (Import it into your existing model from File > Import otherwise it will just open as a simple skp file). Since it is 3" high, all you need to do is to add 16 instances of it on top of each other. This can be done easily with a linear array. If I were you, I would just rebuild the whole thing using these pieces instead of adding though. The same amount of work actually. This would reduce file size big time. Of course, you will need to hide the visible seams at the end (I have already hidden the bottom face and its bounding edges so you should only do it with the top face/edges and put a "cap" on the very top). Turn on hidden geometry (View menu) to be able to work (snap to etc.) to these hidden parts. [image: QnPe_Piece.png] Piece.skp

For simply rotating the image so that some horizontal is made parallel to the 'X' axis, Photoshop users can draw a on that supposed-to-be-horizontal with the ruler tool and hit 'straighten.'

@wo3dan said: I just made a tangent arc with radius o.2mm by creating a larger one that is "accepted" by SU and then entered the smaller radius in 'Entity Info'. The arc stays tangent but adjusts the radius. That works. I arrived at the same level of 0.0002 m by using your trick... and that's good enough for our purposes. - Thanks for good advice.

http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=323&t=32358&p=285411#p285411

I see that flicker all the time on my little machine at work. It's barely qualified to be considered a computer though. At home I just see the menu line go white. I didn't notice it on this file but then I didn't have the rest of the car either.

wow thank you for both answers, ill try this

@tig said: Rescale the model by drawing a line 10 [meters] long, then use the Tapemeasure tool to pick its two ends and type in 10mm. Answer yes when prompted and the whole model will scale to the correct size. NOW you'll have the right-click option to scale the component[s] definition[s]. Finally 'Model Info > Units' and re-set them to mm no units displayed accuracy 1mm snap 1mm ? Sensational... thank you TIG, It worked a treat and you really have saved me a bucket load of work, I basically was about 2 mouse clicks from deleting it all and starting all over again.. All is as it should be. thanks again...

Wireless would be cool.

I don't do much interior work, mostly exteriors, but here are my thoughts. camera setup - Use the 2-point perspective camera to make all of the vertical lines vertical. Spend a lot of time perfecting your camera setup using all of the tools available to you (field of view, aspect ratio, etc.) high detail - with interiors, detail is REALLY important. make sure you're using fairly high polygon models (you can't go crazy but SU can actually handle more polygons than most people think). Use Fredo's RoundCorner plugin (http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?t=10370) to bevel all of your hard edges. This makes a huge difference and really separates novice from professional work. materials - I don't know how much control over materials you have in IDX but with simple materials you'll always end up with fairly uninteresting results. To get an image to 'pop' you really need variation in bump, reflection, etc. Also small things like subtle dirt in corners and slight color variation even in things like painted walls will add realism. As was mentioned earlier, don't be afraid to use photoshop to help with some of things things. -Brodie

Welcome indeed, Chris...got any Sketchup work you can share in the gallery?

What? Was that a test question?

Thank you for fast reply. I am trying to merge two terrain patches from GE. [image: capturemis.jpg] Uploaded with ImageShack.us I am not sure about the inner workings of the script, maybe its not designed for the task I need to accomplish? Maybe there's other method for doing this? When I execute it it seems to be working but the pop up window never shows up...and than it quits without confirmation....it does work on a single terrain patch thou I need to make a large terrain from a number of patches with clean topology and preferably the UVs and textures to be used in an art project that is a simulation of a part of a city....Plllllease help shed some light cheers

Thanks so much guys, great help, especially for a Friday night.

Another way would be to select the lines after turning on hidden geometry, and then right click > Entity Info > deselect 'soft'. The line or lines will then remain visible after turning off hidden geometry.

That sounds like a pretty broad problem. You might need to contact Google about it too.

@chad_ub said: Such a huge help for such a simple problem. yup, welcome to Sketchucation!

Hi, I have searched for a way to cut exactly the terrain parts. I made in each group, at the exact same position, a rectangular area and have intersected with the terrain inside. Then I removed the overlap and put together the two groups again. This seems to be the easiest way. There remain though still small irregularities, which are seen but rarely. Charly [image: gnHU_1.jpg] [image: 14Jj_2.jpg] [image: dyx5_4.jpg] [image: 2jP5_5.jpg] [image: SgU7_3.jpg]

On my PC, if I last had version 7.1 open and try to open a V8 file, I get that message. If I last had V8 open, I don't get it. It's worked this way since I installed version 4 alongside version 3.

WOW this is one of my favorite threads in a long time. Great info here on stairs thanks for the great tuts Jeff and all others who have made usefully posts. Loving the stair porn link too. I have built a few steel spiral and curving stair cases over the years and have also built railings that go on top of beautiful curving stringers with a wood top rail on the railing. My question is would you build the stringers in this thread in the shop or on site? Basically I am asking if anyone has a link or pics of these being built. Also any one have any 2D shop drawings of stringers like these that they would be willing to share? Cheers S