If you feel like you need more practice, have a look here, too.

I understood what you want to do. Let me try again to tell you how to do it. [image: 7721535262_c497eb2b9f_z.jpg] Go to File>Import. Choose your file type and select Use as Image. Drag out the image in SketchUp. [image: 7721536154_58f4fbbcdb_z.jpg] Stand the image up. Size it to the overall length of the screen panels. Do this using the measuring tape clicking on one corner and then the one at the other end. Type the desired length and hit Enter. Then right click on the image and choose Explode. [image: 7721536846_059cb43d71_z.jpg] Figure out where you want to divide the image and draw vertical lines for the folds. [image: 7721534020_aa83861e0e_z.jpg] Select a panel by double clicking on it with Select. Get Rotate. Place it at the end of the fold line. Rotate it to the desired angle. Repeat for the other end. [image: 7721534828_9c4197dbe2_z.jpg] Select all of it and make it a component. Done. By making it a component you can easily keep it for later use if you need it. Like most things in SketchUp there's more than one way to do this. This method works and it's pretty straightforward.

Do those plugins place items in menus other than the plugins menu? Go to Windows > Preferences > Extensions and activate Ruby Scripts Examples. This should place a menu item in the plugins menu called Cost. It'd help if you mentioned what you have activated and installed.

Possible approach to that would be: copy the portion of the model to the side a specified distance clear of other work. Erase what you do not want, make the remainder a group or component. Then, set this back in place and raise it a small increment, and shift it so that it is "parallel" to all. However, if this work curves in on itself, you would have to maybe scale it down a small amount so that it is concentric at all points, sort of like the way Offset automatically resizes to fit. You gave a stair example. If it is stairs, it is important that the treads and risers be consistent in dimensions all along the flight.

Hi Dave, yea you're probably right - it's a Maxwell question. I'm importing an MXM file that includes a JPEG but everytime I try to set the displacement Sketchup closes. Anita

The Export to 2D DWG and 3D DWG in SU returns two different results as pbacot said. 2D DWG - all elements are moved to AC Layer 0 3D DWG - all elements follow SU layering names. The 2D Export is not creating the desired effect, but it has to be some reason why the 2D DWG Export looks like 2D DXF Export. Many years ago I used to export 3D DWG files into *.wmf and 'Import' them back through AC's Insert > Windows Metafile... to get 2D representation of roofs, elevations or sections and apply colours or hatch. Step 1 From SU Export to 3D DWG > and open in AC Step 2 In AC Export to *.WMF Step 3 In AC Insert > Windows Metafile... (AC's top menu) Change the view to get plans or elevations. Use AC command HIDE to hide elements in the background and then export to *.WMF Unearthed, I don't know if the 2D is good enough for you. One thing's for sure, it keeps the SU layering in the AC 2D drawing PS. Windows Metafile - was the useful vector based format for Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw and few other graphical packages, which worked better than the DXF or DWG vectors when imported. Regards

Thank you jenujacob and TIG. This has really solved my problem - that is by welding - though I knew all the other techniques which TIG has kindly narrated. Thanks again to both of you. jenujacob ! Nice to hear from you after a long, long, time! With best regards PRSS

Hi mikemwa, hi folks. Have you clicked in sequence on all the scene tabs that are on the top of the model window ? Just ideas.

I did address the OP's answer five years ago. YOU are asking for something different from what they were looking for.

Thanks Charly, I will take a look at ThomThoms Cleanup tool. Here the part is located. This just shows the exterior layouts of the aircraft before I work on the internal structure. Thanks, Larry [image: FTZ1_Capture5.JPG]

Thanks everybody. The Xline tool works fine for this job. I have attached a screen shot of the pic. with best regards PRSS [image: B3eZ_xlinefountain.jpg]

Thanks pbacot, thats what I did I was just thinking there must be a different or easier way to do it. Thanks Kurt

Yes a mipmapping is similar to what I am looking at. But I want to be able to define the switching range of the mipmap. The human eye identifies differences at different distances, so I want to be able to identify the switch in that change. Openflight files have the ability to have different LODs, which user defined switch ranges. To my knowledge, SketchUp does not support LODs or switch ranges, therefore, I was thinking of using texture "mipmaps" as a means to accomplish part of this.

@dave r said: Next time try resetting the workspace. [attachment=0:3ig1rkuu]<!-- ia0 -->Reset.png<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment:3ig1rkuu] This happened to me recently, too. This fixed the problem. thanks, it worked for me

Yep, you're right! I should have thought about that.. I had some troubles with lines lines not showing up and difficulties creating new faces.. But I just see that there's newer version, i have ver. 2.0 installed.. -> Installed the new one- works perfectly! Thanks again, where would i be without your (and the other's) plugins! Great!

Great share Paul, and from Krisidious on another thread. This does pose the question though, Electrical / Plumbing information as 2D overlays in Layout, or part of the 3D model in Sketchup? Makes sense in 3D I guess because any internal elevations will have the information included, although going to take a careful approach to layer status.

@dave r said: Seriously? You're going to put all the pocket holes in your model? If I were you, I'd skip the pocket holes, design the desk and get on with building it. You could have the desk built for real in less time than you'd spend drawing it in SketchUp with all the pocket holes. If you must put them in, the person who drew them left the guide point as an anchor for them. Move the pocket hole component to where you want it with the guide point on the edge of the board. If you drag the component in from the Components browser, you'll be able to drop them along the edge of the board component. They are set up to cut the opening. The component you left over the case side isn't long enough to come out the edge. It's missing the smaller diameter hole below where the screw head seats. If you want it to do that you'll need edit the component and add the rest of the hole. Components can only cut one opening, however, so they won't cut one on the edge of the board. You'll have to rotate the holes as needed. By the way, you ought to fix the desk top by making each part a separate component and correct the face orientation so you don't have blue faces showing out. Well this is more of a learning thing right now. The pocket holes are a process for me to get the hang of inserting things. I am doing this project so I knoiw what kind of material and hardware is going to be needed, and also be secure. Thank you for explaining how to do this... Dan

Awesome thank you. Like I said I am new so I thought I would ask. Back to videos

Glad to help, Bantymom. thanks for the brownies.