@tig said: @fletch said: here's the 'final' where I used the logs. thanks again Miguel! Had I know the intention you could have had these...[attachment=1:rtt0x3zm]<!-- ia1 -->logs.png<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment:rtt0x3zm][attachment=0:rtt0x3zm]<!-- ia0 -->logs.skp<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment:rtt0x3zm] wow! 2 gifts in the same thread! Thanks a ton, TIG! You can see the 'final' image in the House and Pool thread (using Miguel's logs, I didn't see your component here 'til just now.

Oh, and Chris, you can add &fs=1 to the video embed code to allow fullscreen playback. This solves the problem with smaller monitors. The resulting code woud be: [flash=1280,745]http://www.youtube.com/v/W-pDilrOLfY&hd=1&fs=1[/flash]

Good solution TIG, thanks. Mike

As a newbee i tested this tutorial and it is exactly what i'm searching for. In my project a used this and it works great

Thanks Chris I skewed and cropped and squared up the image in PS, then imported and exploded per Alan's comments. Worked great. Getting the color to match was a bit tedious, but by messing with the values in the image editor, saving and reloading a few times, the textures on all the components updated instantly throughout. SU is amazing.... E

Thanks Chris for this new Ruby 's tutorial. Really helpfull Dynamic explanations, what a good idea to follow step by step the code. MALAISE

@unknownuser said: The workaround for renderers that don't recognize 2pt perspective is to make sure that your camera is pointed in a direction parallel to the ground plane. You can do this within sketchup by making two vertical lines of the same height (say 5'5" for example), picking the Position Camera button from the toolbar, clicking the top of one of the lines to pick your camera location and dragging your mouse to the top of the other line before letting go of the mouse button to set the direction you want your camera to face. I use this within Maxwell Render (which doesn't do 2-pt perspectives) with almost all of my arch-viz work. Maxwell also has a Shift Lens parameter which essentially shifts your lens up or down within that frame of reference as doing a 2pt at eye level will often cut off the top of your building and almost always show too much foreground. It shifts the lens up to correct that (many real architectural photographers use a shift/tilt lens for the same purpose) -brodie thanks for the tip Brodie, if you check out the list of upcoming features for TW: @unknownuser said: 2 - All new Twilight "Position Scene's View Tool" , allows you to previsualize the precise window showing your precise rendering. allows you to click any point in your view as your new focal point for driving the DOF focal point. allows you to orbit your view around a selected point in your scene... instead of around some nebulous 'point' it seems that they're fixing the 2pt. problem as we speak and adding some awsome new camera tools too!! BTW, i've edited my previous posts, it seems that i put twilight.com instead of http://www.twilightrender.com sorry if i misguided anyone to some silly vampire site.

notareal i could kiss you right now!! i was thinking that i was gooing crazy because i tought i read something about this somewhere and couldn't remember the book or article, and you gave me something even better: a tutorial!!! thanks! David

@al hart said: You might appreciate this next weeks tip: 2 pt perspective for better vertical alignment... No, they are not at all placed in angle - here is a "real ortho" (parallel projection) view... I am (of course) not happy with some of the procedural textures yet... [image: FQ1I_Bazilika-Texture17.jpg]

@honoluludesktop said: Hi Al, Don't think twice about it. Speaking for myself, I think that the only things we really need to be consider giving credit to, is ruby code. Thanks - You'll see the start of your tip at the bottom of this page: Rendering Tips [Edit: removed no longer correct verbage]

@chris fullmer said: Ahh that was a good time. You were ther Dale? I don't know that I met you, did I? Though I suppose at the time, I was not very active on this forum - I was still in denial that the old @last/Google forum had shut down Chris No Chris I don't believe we met, but I was the one constantly taking notes. I did meet a lot of fine people there though, usually over way too much lunch. I was at your session though, although I guess that was obvious since I caught Gai's. My abilities in SketchUp quadrupled every day at that camp.

Create an account on YouTube (if you haven't so far) and when logged in, you can create your own favourite lists amnd play lists.

That's very kind Gaieus. I have sent account details and file to your gmail address. Toodle pip! Chris

Thanks Gaeius In Photoshop the Blur focal distance will help you focus the object that you based on the distance that PS is reading from the depth pass. So as long as you push further the far he will focus. The as i said before is where you control the amount of blur but sometimes you'll want to pussh it up just a litle bit on the blur so that doesn't get so undefined and can't do it in the lens blur menu. then after doing the blur, duplicate that blur layer, and youl'll see that the blur got a litle stronger, now start reducing the opacitty of the top one, seeing real time the blur getting stronger or weaker. Anyone want to share more tips?:) P.S: there 2 more images below showing the blur focal distance afecting the image using the depth pass (first focusing near objects- car and tree; 2nd focusing, midle objects - house; and 3rd focusing far away objects - back trees). [image: 1t16_House4DOF1.jpg] [image: lJ07_House4DOF2.jpg] [image: 5G5t_House4DOF3.jpg]

@mirjman said: how are you controlling the height of the displacement so that it matches real world units? I'm not... I just eyeballed it, did a couple of tests before settling... I did think about it, and I guess a more precise way of eyeballing it (so not precise either) would be opening both files, use the front view on both and compare. I remember reading somewhere the multiplier for displacement maps had some real world meaning, I'll do some research.

I would use it if I there was a way to make money from it!

martin, thanks for such a detailed explanation. for what it is worth, i included an image of the kind of organization i use. for every project there is a folder that holds a group of subfolders, each one related to each kind of file related to the project. some are imput files, others are output files. besides numbering different versions of a file, i also put the date on them. as for file synchronization, i use dropbox (very easy to use, free and offers other capabilities to boot). as you can see, i am on mac. [image: GaBa_work_org.png]

what a great tutorial it's like playing games

@solo said: Fantastic work, I wish I could translate it however... http://www.translate.google.com does a pretty good job - just put in the URL and go Here's the translated page: http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fixlrlxi.livejournal.com%2F113673.html&sl=ru&tl=en&history_state0= Thanks for posting, Urgen!!

Dear Elisei, Cheerful comment. I want remember again the great part you had taken in this study: [ @ely862me said: sds is good but u need to know how to use it (clickable quote) ](http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f) As I was not completely satisfied with the result: Top faces not really smooth: [image: th_MoltLet_b.jpg] I have tried back to subdivide (manually) the top face of the "subsurf proxy": something which we had discussed.. This time, the result is OK to me [image: thMoltLet_c.jpg] [image: thMoltLet_d.jpg] My conclusion: If the S&S operation is not completely satisfying, don't try to repair the resultant "subsurf" (as I had done), but come back on the "subsurf proxy" to discover what is wrong. Because in my case, all the little odd results of the subsurfs where coming from little wrong drawings of the proxies. simon