Dino Those Kolbe windows are not created right, some of them have reversed faces, bits on wrong layers etc. They have also not been made into components correctly, so try exploding the component, while it's still all hightlighted after exploding make it a component again this time select it to glue to vertical and check the cut opening option. This will now work.

Hi folks. The SU videos available for download here: https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupvideo/?AuthEventSource=SSO Just ideas.

@unknownuser said: Blender 2.49b Import the file "x" Export in Dae (Collada) Import in Sketchup 7 (free or pro) Thank you Pilou for your answer!

I actually tried Fredo's stuff once, a while ago, but I had trouble with rotation and flipping options (edit: and grouping) randomly disappearing and didn't notice this one. I'll download it again and try. Thanks!

thanks for your help, ill go that way

@alpro said: I would just start with a circle with however many segments you needed, which would depend on how closely the model is gonna be viewed. The view below was zoomed in pretty close, the more that you move the view out the less noticable the difference between the two circles is. Mike That might be the best way - Hey, If I'm already striping 6 segments why not 48. Once I cook it all in Podium it will probably look just fine. UPDATE EDIT: Here's how I finally did it... DREW a 16 segment circle - PULLED to 4" - Turned on GEOMETRY to determine vertical segments. Used LINE DRAW to bisect each of the 16 Segments. GROUPED, COPIED and PASTED on top - ROTATED to line up stripes. COPIED these two and placed on top - REPEATED until it was the height I wanted. MADE IT A COMPONENT. Edited and painted the stripes. Did a quickee PODIUM render and it looks okay. Thanks for the help.

Yeah, the blue axis seems to be point the right direction, but you need to adjust the red and green ones. You'll notice it is lined up correctly end to end, its just lying on its side. THat is a green/red issue. An easy way to do it is to edit the component and rotate the geometry so it is standing up. OR you could change the component axis before using component stringer. And component stringer is not necessarily the best script for laying out things like fences onto a line. CompStringer really excels at things that can change scale. I would recommend using Rick's path_Copy from smustard.com. You will probably get better results and more relable. Chris

Hi Executor, hi folks. I suggest that you learn the native tools of SU before using Plugins. See this SU file for ideas. Mirroring object skewed with all axes.skp

You need Ortho projection. Turn this on with the menu item Camera > Parallel Projection and view you image from the top. The slant you are seeing is only present in Perspective view.

Thanks Solo! I will continue studying the Subdivide and Smooth for a day to make these modeling! Thank you!

@wo3dan said: I'm able to place a (transparant) box on a corner of a building at position: 51.828187N / 4.706535E , checked by placing a (corrected) place mark!!! Next I'm able to reposition that box on: 51.828188N / 4.706536E , checked again by placing a new (corrected) place mark!!! Hi Wo3Dan and other fellow SU designers. In our environment we would need the same level of precision (5 or more decimals) and unfortunately the SU designers don't want to support our (and Google Earth's) needs. You seem to have been able to create a work-around, but unfortunately I cannot quite catch the idea. Can you give a more detailed account of the procedure that you use. It seems to me that you are creating precisely aligned placemarks in Google Earth and that you import (Tools > Google Earth > Get Current View) them into SU to get better precision. Is that correct? I still have a feeling that the easiest way to settle the problem would be that the SU designers would offer us the same level of precision that is being required in the Google 3D Warehouse - Acceptance Criteria. Correct alignment won't be achieved as long as rounding errors produce deviations of a magnitude around 5 meters (as they do in our area).

@johnsenior1973 said: Just put it on the Gallery. Label it as a WIP. Update the thread as you work on it. thank you )

Thanks Remus. I'll give it a try. By the way, I'm working on a Mac... don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Yes, sorry.

Yes, exactly. You can always add to the GE terrain (although you may risk your model being rejected if you do this too excessively) but cannot "subtract" from the terrain. Or you can but as the GE terrain will be inevitably above it, you won't be able to see it. So the workaround is to add to your terrain, paint it with the colour GE snapshot and subtract from that piece down to the limit of the original terrain.

That looks like a neat program! I haven't used it, but you can get it right here for a cool $550(professional license) Here is a recent demo using Sketchup to form the original mesh, then exporting to GEM [flash=853,505:2jb7r26m]http://www.youtube.com/v/ijynb4bNbDc&fs=1[/flash:2jb7r26m]

thanks everyone....i'll let you know how it comes out. Sheesh, i can't wait til my new computer is here. Try running all this stuff on 256mb ram...ugh

I like the Lines2Tubes.rb plugin, for quick rendering, but prefer the tubes to be copies of a "master" tube component. With the master tube-component axes aligned to the model-space axes, I can scale different tubes to custom lengths. To make all the tubes fatter or thinner, I simply modify the "contents" of the master component, editing in its context. (...BUT, it requires a LOT more effort!) Now, if I could only have the "best of both worlds." [image: StI2_10V_radome.png] Taff

Dear Rclub24, Brilliant! Thank you. Don't know how I missed that one.... Cheers, Bruce

That's great - Thanks a lot for your help.