John, before you get finished with this component, you might want to adjust the edges of that end face. Take a look at the two scenes in the attached file. The guideline runs along the edge at the end of the slope. Notice the edges of the end aren't coplanar. I expect this is a big reason for the triangulation required to get the surface to fill.

I fixed it by replacing extending the round part and slicing it off with a cutting plane.

Edit: I moved this thread because it isn't a bug.

Crescent Wrench 3.skp

Crescent Wrench 3 fixed.skp

I wouldn't worry about Seiko, John. Just think of all the 3D car marques that are out there on the Net. Anyway, it's good publicity for them; contesting the issue and coming across as a miserly curmudgeon is quite the reverse.

That is quite different from the case of the idiot that started posting dozens of FormFonts meshes to another forum. When challenged, he actually had the gall to claim that he was doing us a favour by publicising the site. Yeah, right...like I'd be doing someone else a favour by giving all their wordly goods away to demonstrate what good taste they had. 😒

Polite approaches often work. I'm glad it did in your case. But just occasionally you hit the Twilight Zone.

Thought I would give it a try before bed. NEVERMIND how late I stayed awake without knowing. 😮 I was VERY pleased with myself when I realized the only way to beat the falling ball was to build a trebuchet. Also it took me a while to figure out there were solutions not using the wheels at all. Failed at getting the several balls across a pit.

I'm staying away from it nevetheless.

@titmas said:

domestic plywood is manufactured in standard dimensions, ie. 1/4" 1/2" 3/4"

imported plywood is manufactured in metric dimensions, ie. 5.2mm 12mm 18mm.

upon a closer look the measurements are not equal. 3/4" = 19.5mm

why is imported plywood thinner than its domestic counterpart?

domestic? as in domestic u.s.a? if so, your measurements are off.. buy a sheet of 3/4 here (u.s.) and it's even stamped 23/32 (though for simplicity sake i imagine, the price tag still says 3/4).. the domestics and imports are the same general thicknesses (nowhere near a 1.5mm difference)

@unknownuser said:

call it greed, call it efficiency, call it capitalism, call it whatever you want to but, all things being equal, the major difference between imported and domestic plywood is the quality and closely related to that is the price. it would be subjective to say that imported plywood is poor quality so to remain objective i'll just say that domestic plywood is produced with a smaller allowable tolerance where imported plywood has a bigger tolerance.

what?
imported plywood is way better(and the price reflects this).. use a few sheets of finland birch and that will become your standard to which all other ply will fail to meet..
[although you'll probably only be able to find it in hobby sizes right now in the u.s... i'm pretty sure i wiped out the entire u.s. stock of 6 & 9mm 8x4 sheets last year.. i really hope that's false so anyone please prove me wrong if you can.. ]

for the more standard softwood plywoods, the only time i get 1/2" that's actually really close to 1/2" is when it comes from south america.. for cdx style plywood, this is the best stuff out there.. it always comes in 5-ply (as opposed to u.s.'s 4 or 3), less voids, stronger, and nearly equal in price.. note - u.s 3-ply 1/2" is even thinner than 4-ply.. that said, i always go with domestic 4ply 1/2" because of my application (i need to bend the stuff and the 5-ply is too strong)

@unknownuser said:

the easiest way to deal with imported metric plywood dimensions in your SU drawings is to use the metric dimensions that the plywood is manufactured with.

here are the sizes that metric plywood is produced in with the standard equivalent next to them.

metric- standard
2.6 mm - 1/8"
3.0 mm - 1/8"
5.2 mm - 1/4"
6.0 mm - 1/4"
9.0 mm - 3/8"
12.0 mm - 1/2"
15.0 mm - 5/8"
18.0 mm - 3/4"

if that's how you like to do it, fine.. not really nice to pass this type of info along though...

@tayler said:

i cannot see from the model which looks very flash... whether you have sufficient cross bracing/structural strength for it to take a good pounding as it will no doubt?

I'm confident it will take a good pounding. The top is 100mm thick and the legs are 125mm square joined together with tenons and draw-pins. Rather than rails, the back and sides will be made of 18mm plywood dadoed into the legs.

Building has not been exactly smooth. I learned a few things about adjusting and using a power planer during the process. Then I learned how important it is that each lamination have workable grain running in the same direction. That has slowed me down as I've had to buy more wood and wait for it to dry.

Every new project should be a learning experience and this has been exactly that.

@remus said:

If you make the geometry a group/component and then apply a material to the group (without entering it) it should colour the back faces as well, is that the sort of thing you meant?

That works. Good trick. At least it works if the entire component is one color.

A circle and a polygon are pretty much indistinguishable in 2D. Same number of sides and all connected into a single 'curve' object - if you explode either type the sides split into individual edges...

However, a circle and a polygon differ if you extrude them into 3D forms - using pushpull or followme etc.

A circle is a smooth curve and extrudes faces in 3D that are also smoothed - i.e. the edges between the facets are not normally visible.

A polygon is not smoothed and so it extrudes faces in 3D that are separated by visible edges. However, you can hide or smooth these later if desired...

Well, sorry for replicating an already known bug... on the upside, now I fixed the same bug in my own code. Thanks Todd!

Jim that's terrific. Can't wait to see the product.

@schreiberbike said:

Thanks for all the information. In all my sketching up, I've just let the axes fall where they may and everything seemed to work. Now I see how complex this can all be made.

Based on what I know now, I might have been able to fix what I messed up before, but it's too late.

What is the advantage of being able to have axes point in all different ways?

Another question: If I can make the blue axis line point to the horizon, what determines where the sky is?

SchreiberBike,

The advantages of rotated axes can be various things.
It can help you to position components or in constructing geometry.

There are more tools that do not act according to rotated axes (as with creating groups and components):

paint straight from the material browser on faces is aligned to the original global axes. (unless painted on groups or components). Sampled paint can act in a different way. the smoove tool (without holding down shift) is always vertical according to the original global blue axis. Even when holding down shift the boundaries of the influenced endpoints is a vertical cylinder with chosen radius although the displacements are more or less perpendicular to the involved faces in the center of the circle) text labels on endpoints show X-, Y-, and Z-values to the original global origin, even with rotated axes. (most likely other features that I can't think of now).

What will be the sky when axes are rotated? ALWAYS where original blue is pointing at.

To reset axes right click on one of the axes and choose 'Reset'

Wo3Dan

Nice model, John. Thanks for sharing.

I think it also depends on what it is used for. If you are creating an image for your own enjoyment and posting on forums such as this (i.e. non-commercial work), you probably wouldn't have any problems. If you are creating commercial work for which you are paid, and used someone's likeness without their knowledge/consent, you will probably run into a problem. The exception is images of historical figures over a certain age (100 years I believe).

@wizer said:

i'd love to see some real photos on this or a link to where you got the idea?

Thanks

It came up as part of a discussion on a woodworking discussion board. I'm hoping to put in a dust control system at some point, so I wanted to see how this guy had designed his blast gates. Sketching it up helped me understand the design.

The guy who built them has a site at http://www.crowsnest.us/woodshop/tools/dust_collection.htm.

Well obviously I'm in metric...
My custom template is set to centimetres and I use three decimal (.000) precision. It usually is precise enough for me. That would be about 1/64" I guess but certainly it is easier for us just to add some decimals than keep counting in fractals.

Thank you Jean. As usual, once you explain it it's obvious. Before that it was impossible.

I tried it with Vue over here:

http://www.sketchucation.com/scf/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2717&p=24054#p24054

( I do not like to post two of the same models rendered with different apps next to one another...)

Exceptional work, John. Truely exceptional.
This proves what I tell so many people: when you work with SU you're actually working on your hobby. I know of very few other programs that are as powerful and veratile and fun and just plain addictive.
Again, beautiful work, John.

Here's the details on the upgrade.

http://docs.google.com/View?docid=ajg9d7mmp8rt_4gp925h

SchreiberBike - Exactly right.

Here's a quick file using the houses example above.

Copy/Mirror/Scale one or more of the footprints then switch on the House-Body layer.

Layer Grouping Example

Thanks Dylan,

I thought our familiar friend needed some new groovy gear and party a little. Might even make him my default dude. 😎

P: ACZero