Dear All, You could also use Jim's most excellent 'query' tool. Like TaffGoch I use the Entity Info box all the time, using it to name/rename groups on the fly. Using the Entity Info box with the Outliner box is even better. Regards, Bob

ridix, You might find the tips posted here... Learning Advanced Tips and Techniques ...to be helpful (demonstrating how to preferentially manipulate the orientation of the rotate and protractor cursors.) Taff

there is also a ruby called Simplify contours available here simplify contours I have found it very useful.

Hi Jean ! Thank you for the fast reply ! I want all frames on ONE plane and found out that if you pull and the colored line comes up and you press shift it lets you lock to that direction ! Peter

In fact I have to confess that I have never designed a log building except our first assignment at architecture school that was to design a small log sauna in full detail (still sweating after about 35 years). But as most of my work involves old (in the Finnish context)buildings I have to keep up some understanding of traditional building methods. As Gaieus correctly points out, most domestic building here was in logs until the 1940s, and in the earlier days also most public construction too. I am not sure if the Kerimäki church from the mid-1800s is still the largest log building in the world. The kind of log construction using round logs is traditionally not very common here, except in outhouses and temporary buildings. Permanent buildings were made of hewn logs and boarded over. In modern times the "chalet" style has become more popular, first in summer cottages, later it has been the preferred style of the log house prefabricators. Anssi

thanks everybody =]

I usually don't use profiles but these are the cases when I do. With profiles on, you can see which line does not create an edge (is not closed) at some point and (like Remus says) with hidden geometry turned on, you can manually fix the problem by drawing the necessary lines. Drape sometimes has this glitch and you really have to do some hand stitching to fix it.

If I wanted to put it short (and kind of rude), I'd say "RTFM" But seriously, after playing around a bit and starting to understand how things work in SU, it is well worth to go through the whole manual step by step and while reading, doing what it says there. At the end(ish) of each section there there are tips on what and how you can enter into the VCB (where applicable). And I can tell you that even I visit the manual time after time and discover new things (well, things that I forgot at least or do otherwise).

I don't think there is consistency in this. It's the same with punching holes: Draw a face, pushpull it to some thickness, draw a grid (with Windowizer, for instance) and push-pull one grid face to make a hole. Now start double-clicking on the rest of the squares. Most often than not, some of them do not make a hole, but leave two z-fighting faces instead, or then at some stage the bottom face of the box disappears completely. Anssi

oops that was easy Thanks

By the way Conrad, you may want to now go to the Edit tab to experiment with profile settings of 1, 2, or 3 to change the thickness of the outline lines.

Generally SU doesnt do faces smaller than about 1mm, although you can easily work around this if you want to do small things, by creating your model at 10,000x the scale and then scaling it down.

Hello Here is the holes.rb script. Also I have attached opener.rb which also does the same thing. I think it is from Smustard - I do not remember. But I use this extensively to cut holes. Makes holes This also makes holes Hope this helps With best regards PRSS

Thanks it worked. I managed to copy and recalled my object in component dialog box.

I just tried the .obj export plugin, it works great! Thanks for the help

Ok thanks! Bye

Oh thanks! It sounds interesting! I'm gonna have a look at it! Bye

Hi Conrad and welcome (or did anyone already say that?) Aaanyway, don't get confused by those woodworkers down at the special forums - they are mostly the ones that are here (at the Newbie section) as well to help out "hopeless" new members. And if not - well there are the "rest" but I'm sure you won't be unanswered.

Thanks for your replies - I'll try them both out

Hi, While the gentlemen above are correct how lines can easily be hidden, you may rather be interested in softening those edges instead, if they are on a terrain. To do this, right click on the terrain component and select soften edges. A dialogue will pop up where you cn check "soften coplanar edges" and use the slider to soften what you want. You can also soften individual edges (in edit mode) using the Ctrl+Erases tool. Softening a terrain would probably give you better visual results than only hiding edges because by hiding them the surface will stilll ermain "broken".