I wouldn't recommend making movies by recording the screen with a screen capture software like jing or camtasia. THose are good for tutorials and explaining things in real time, but not good for final full quality movies (as you keep finding out). Just use scenes, or if you really want something that feels more like a handheld camera, use my plugin I mentioned above. Chris

Answered your email. Please, let me know if you still cannot see the search box. [image: sx3h_search.png]

I know, I'm pretty much the most humble person I know.

Fair enough and welcome to the SCF. Mike

@dominicm143 said: i've saved my old model as a component, and now it won't ... ~dominic muscatella Exactly how? I don't know what's in your model, but try this technique which I'll explain as if you've modeled a house. Explode. Delete everything but the top story and roof. Save as 'attic'. Reload. Delete everything above ground. Save as 'basement'. Continue until you have a collection of tractable pieces. You can now delete the original. (Well, save to another name: my_old_model_that_I_may_not_need.skp.) To rebuild, File/New, then import the parts one at a time, clicking the origin. They should assemble correctly if you import each to the origin. That will give you a collection of small, easy-to-use models. One other technique. If you move everything in the 'attic' model into a layer named 'attic', when you import you will have a single component named 'attic' in a layer named 'attic'. Very handy for SketchUp animations.

For objects smaller than about a foot across, the "use model extents" checkbox causes the print to be split on many pages, so the way to print to 1:1 is to zoom in close so that the object to be printed fills the screen. Or then scale the model up by 10 and print to 1:10 scale Anssi

Excellent news! Glad to hear it!

And the last version of the Component Spray by Didier Bur

I would, however my employer's firewall is preventing me from going to that forum. Not sure why but it is. Can you possibly provide a link to this discussion in that forum for me. I'm pretty much desperate at this point. Pathetic, I know, but as you can see from the model, I'm pretty committed at this point to finding a solution to this challenge.

@unknownuser said: how to draw on a curved surface. About that try Tools on surface by Fredo 6 @unknownuser said: is there a way to flatten a curved surface? About that try Fredoscale by Fredo6

Hi folks. Just to add a bit of information, when importing a file, use the Option button in the Import dialog window to specify the units of the file to be imported. This will avoid an unwanted scaling at import. Just ideas.

Excellent, thanks for the fast responses, I am a beginner in sketchup modelling, I apreciate a lot your help and share your experience with me. @d12dozr said: It looks like you just need to smooth the remaining lines...select the raw geometry, then right click -> Smooth... and adjust the slider until it looks good. Thanks d12dozr, Soften and Smooth it's a great tool that makes the models look better hiding its lines, thanks, my model looks better now. @gaieus said: It seems that the remaining faces (after cleaning up) are not coplanar. This can of course worked around by smoothing those surfaces like Marcus suggested but also make it harder to texture and work with. Thanks Gaieus, after using Soften and Smooth tool on the models raw I realized that the lines and noncoplanar faces still remain there. The main problem of the model is the high number of noncoplanar faces because that faces make difficult to modify the model, the model have a large amount of faces, therefore, if it's used in a larger model can reduce the performance of Sketchup. It looks like the only solution is intersect the model and delete the lines manually or delete the lines of the noncoplanar faces and redraw those to make a coplanar face. Thanks for your help

Hi, Welcome to SCF! you'll find the German sub-forum when you click User Control Panel [image: jlno_UCP.jpg] , then click the User Groups tabs. Select your groups you wish to join and Submit. [image: 44ej_German.jpg] Then you can access the German forum Rich

Wow! I am seriously glad you told me that. I have worked with drafting programmes that did that sort of thing, and it can be very frustrating. So thanks for passing on a workaround and saving me (and I hope others) a lot of trouble.

Just browsing through posts. If you have too much detail or hidden stuff on top, try moving the WHOLE model UP by 3 ft, then with a front or side view, L-R select the LOWER part of the model and move it DOWN 3 feet. Then you can go in and fix any bits that either didn't move or accidentally moved. This avoids moving & fixing the far more complex upper part of the model.

thanks for passing by I've been told geo-wrml can support georeferencing data, but I'm not sure sketchup can output such a file format. I just got DXF (supposed to contain georeference data but I haven't any soft supporting that so I can't be sure) and have been asked to export my model in wrl format WITH the supposed georeference data, in order to be imported in a big database under SupportGIS, a german version of GIS soft. It's the first time I'm asked such a request so I'm a total newbie in this field...

@unknownuser said: Oops! Did not realize that the address I added in the previous post did not go to the web site. So here is the correct web site. http://www.freesketchupplugins.co.uk/springtool.php Ken he,,, its plugin springtool make use sketchup 7

Cool rendering:-) When I see it like that I will certainly build it:-) Thanks for all the help, and the positive feedback:-) Arne

Thanks for that response. I was hoping for something in the way of an elegant shortcut, but at least it is good to have some place to start.

@jean lemire said: Hi folks. Here is a trick that allows a regular positioning around a circle (radial array), without any calculation. ... Just ideas. That's pretty sexy but what I had in mind was using a shaped standard size brick - much like blocks of ice Inuit cut to build igloos (at least in my mind's eye). In this case I can only envisage setting the first block of each ring (including correct tilt) and then using radial copy. The number of copies are guessed and the surplus deleted + 1/2 if any need to be cut to fit and to maintain bond. Of course you will end up with an ocular hole as discussed in other dome related topics. As you say just ideas.