Note that the GE terrain is just a more or less accurate approximation of the real terrain (in fact, any digital data about terrain is just an approximation since the accuracy depends on the denseness of the data collected). Now just like with the variation of imagery quality al around the world, the terrain quality is not the same everywhere either. Smaller or sometimes even bigger terrain differences (especially when these are only at a very local level) often "averaged" and you can only tell that the overall accuracy is more or less okay throughout a couple of miles (and not the details within this distance). Certainly falling into an "averaged" area where the slope goes exactly the other direction, is a pretty much unfortunate thing. Is the difference very big? Would it prevent you from modelling something completely?

Excellent work. Keep plugging away. Dave

@gulcanocali said: Hi Alessandro, @surfingalien said: artisan (and eventually tgi3d) is something I'm considerING (ouch!) to buy... Just FYI, cross section tool mentioned here is available unrestricted in the free Training Edition of Tgi3D SU Amorph. Regards, thank you for the info, I saw it was available in the free training edition (as pilou pointed out) it was a more general thought about some very well done tools I'm doing all the "organic" modeling outside SU at the moment (Silo3D and Cheetah3D mainly) cheers, Alessandro

Thank you for the welcome, Leedeetee, here's an example of the exhibition stand things that I create in SU. Basic at the moment but I'm getting the hang of it. I like what you've done and hope to progress in that way. [image: d0e6873cb7a606b5f1d45741fd90ad833a282e35d4cddee08b5a7a4ced4c137c6g.jpg] I just need my manager to allow me to purchase Pro so I can export to Illustrator format. Solo, you wouldn't believe it but the sun is shining today. I shan't go out in it as I want to preserve my pasty English skin. Wagoneer

Okay, if that is the general with your models, you could even choose a template with centimetres (x10) or metres (x1,000) and keep modelling "as if" you were doing it in millimetres (i.e. no need to recalculate the values every time you draw something). At the end, when you are finished, you can scale the whole thing down and in the model info dialog, set the units to mm (it will "stick" for this particular model file only). If you do any texturing with image materials, only do it with the correctly scaled down model (images get scaled up/down when inside groups/components).

O.K. I was thinking about messing with the registry but decided I should ask here instead. I guess I'll just live with it. Plus, there's really no reason for me not to switch to v.8, is there?

No problem. I knew about the "Must Have Plugins Visual Edition." However, this ain't about me. Acidblue gets his info-that's what counts. Merci

Well I found a way that seems to work - will test more after church. I printed the object in SU using the free CutePDF client at high quality with HLR checked; saved it as a PDF. Illustrator (and Flash versions 8 or older) opens this fine and the strokes remain strokes so you can edit them. All the corners came in perfect.

Tale the 'cm' out of there. You get a choice between cm and inches so you can't enter units as M or mm etc. [edit] fwiw, you can change between inches & cm via the button shown here: [image: oLnJ_dc_units.jpg] as far as the # error, i'm not 100% sure what it means but i think it's something like "DC is expecting a number but you entered a text string"

Layers do NOT separate geometry [unlike in CAD], all that SUp layers do is control objects' visibility. All of you 'raw' geometry should be made on Layer0. By making/moving geometry inside groups or component-instances you separate the geometry from other geometry that might otherwise stick to it. You then control visibility of the groups/instances using layers of those. You cannot separate some geometry by simply moving it onto an invisible layer as any new geometry you add within the same context will still merge with it. You are best advised to always have LAyer0 set as your current-layer. For example draw a rectangular face on the current-layer [Layer0]. Select the face [not its edges] and change it to be on another layer [say Layer1] that's switched off. You can no longer see it. Now erase one of the rectangle's edges. Switch the Layer1 and the face has gone too, that's because although you had [inadvisably] moved the face onto a hidden layer it was still connected to its edges on Layer0 and therefore was erased when an edge went. No try this... Draw another rectangular face on the current-layer [Layer0]. Select the face and Group it. Draw another rectangular face on the current-layer [Layer0] exactly over the group. Erase the face but leave the edges. Now select the group and move it onto Layer1 and switch that layer off. You are left with the unfaced edges. Erase and edge. Switch Layer1 back on and the face reappears. This is because you have separated some of you geometry using groups and changed visibility of the group's layer. So if you want to trace over something make sure you are working over a group/instance and then only the geometry in the current working context will interact

Sketchup.active_model.pages returns a list of the SKP's scenes. pages["Scene 1"] returns the scene with that name pages[1] returns the second scene etc This list is in the order the tabs are displayed. You can set_current/add/erase pages etc so you can manipulate the list... pages.add(name,flags,location) adds a scene [or replaces the scene at 'location' - e.g. 1 for the second scene - if no 'location' is given a new page is added at the start]. The bitwise 'flags' is also optional - it represents the scene's properties - http://code.google.com/apis/sketchup/docs/ourdoc/page.html#update explains this... So it would be possible to write a script to reorganize scene tabs... BUT it's complex. Smustard.com has several 'page' tools [some free, some inexpensive] that might help you. One way would be to use the scene [page] export method [provided by 'pageExIm.rb' - $5], then sort the lines in the .sup file that's generated [with Notepad++ etc], then erase all scene tabs and immediately reimport the scenes in that new order as desired, using their names ? Tip: this tool might cause problems if you haven't [temporarily] reset your Model Info > Units to 'inches' when doing the 'export' - it exports details in current units, but then imports assuming they are in inches - at least in the [perhaps older] version I have [that I have adjust to automate this temp-units issue to always export/import in inches irrespective of current-unit settings]... There are also a Smustard tool to rename scenes logically after reordering if needed...

As I said, I just pulled the shape out of my hat. I didn't intend it to match a production Y. The process would be essentially the same anyway.

. the easiest/fastest way to draw this (that i know of) is with the CurviShear plugin by fredo: http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?t=29230 [image: Ssf8_curvishear.jpg]

I'd be surprised if the engines themselves were really different. I'd suspect that at least most of the time the quality difference is part user and part modeling program. Sketchup has a lot more novice users than 3ds max. Max is a beast to learn and is crazy expensive so is scares off most of the hobbyists. Also, you can add a level of detail in Max that is rarly seen in SU, and often those details make all the difference in renderings. -brodie

I am trying to get some good renderings and am new to the rendering effort. After trying several programs, settled on Shaderlight recently. Seems like good features at a reasonable price. It appears that the 2D face me trees are usually more realistic. But would be interested in both.

I used Artisan, made a simple proxy (see image) and ran 2 iriterations. [image: VTq2_quickshapeproxy.jpg]

Hi Patrick and welcome! I would be honest with the little geeks explaining that you have just got this job and practically speaking this will be a common learning curve. Believe me, they will appreciate it much more than anything when it turns out that you do not know a detail. Certainly you can (and should) be a bit ahead of them. Here (below the boring forum stuff) is a couple of links to various tutorials and videos (some links are outdated a bit but you will discover): http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=1398 Another thing: do not "ban" them from online resources. If just one is interested in the material, will eventually find this forum and you - so that honesty would pay twice; instead, encourage them to visit online resources (including these forums). People are generally patient with newbies (and especially youngsters) here so there should not be any issue (and if there is any, here are the moderators and me to kick butts)

thanks i will give it a try

@tig said: To be a solid the object's edges must have two faces - no more and no fewer. Very "solid" definition, thanks! I have never thought of this approach (only the "long list" way what a solid has to and must not consist of)

@okto said: @pbacot said: Your color scheme made me think of this picture from Picasa. It is from Morocco I think. Not the exact colors but shows how strong colors might be used. Perhaps someone can paint a scene like this as faux portal on the wall. that a very strong colours. and the ornament on the upside section, is very beautiful. can you tell me what it is? so ethnic.. It is Moroccan. What sort of building I could not say. Search online for images of Moroccan things like "column" you will see the use of plaster work patterns (or bas relief), geometric designs, and the wonderful uses of color. Fabrics might be a good way to introduce these designs into the decor. As said in one of Solo's links @unknownuser said: :The hypnotic style of Moroccan decorating incorporates colorful tile combinations, with unique plasterwork and painted surfaces gracing walls, arches and pathways. Extravagant taste found in paintings, rugs, pottery, woven bedspreads and unique pieces of furniture comprise the popular Moroccan motif.