I forgot this thread, (didn't click the email button)
At any rate I got the model to work the other day, but I don't remember what I did now. Thanks for the reply.

walmart.com is out of stock, I will call my local store tomorrow.
Thanks

Thanks Dan(?)
I figured most of this out on my own. I did also figure out the motor orientation thing, I had motors going opposite way. I watched a few youtubes on SP, some, a few times to make sure I was doing it right.

Now I need to figure out the keyboard control thing, I don't have a joystick...yet, so I need to make lefty, leftx, righty, and the rightx work, for steering and speed, since in the case of a skidsteer machine these things are directly related to each other.
Thanks again!

I've always thought foot petals would be the trick. Then maybe the whole desk-keyboard moves in and out like airplane controls.

Well I have a bunch of experience several hours a day over a years time there abouts, my problem is the rooms are large and albeit rectangular they are in odd dimensions, I can fix that, by changing them to multiples of 24". then array the first two 1" wide strips (one on X and one on Y)then if needed for other rooms that are odd sized I can manually draw the odd spaced wall angles "bars". What happened last night when I posted my first message was I used guides 1"-24"-1", and the same with the 48" tees then drew real lines over them, and closed the ends. I had a senior moment and didn't think of using an array technique. So this morning I will try again.

I generally do not care with the exact depth of the stamp tool while stamping. When you are done, you can just select the stamped face and use the move tool to accurately position it to the desired height. Way easier than suffering with the stamp tool (that's only good to make the stamp outline and offset it in the surrounding TIN)

@tspco said:

Well I did that still no copy, now I have this

@unknownuser said:

May be you have some problems different from mine?
Check with this connection link to see http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?t=31819#p280545

Bump. I think back to the days of model challenges for Halloween and Christmas--which I enjoyed a lot but I don't think I ever felt good enough to join in. Maybe folks would like to make some Christmas cards and share them. Maybe we'll put snow on our current clients' house models for the Holidays and share with them (though the houses will be in California).

@didier bur said:

Hi,

@unknownuser said:

For some reason, it does not load for me - again

RLD's OK, though...

Not always; see catamountain post in this topic recently (so it is not just me):
http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/sketchup/thread?tid=22ea17cbcf56c8a5&hl=en

@unknownuser said:

Happy new year 2011 ☀

Happy Birthday to you, Didier as well! 😉

It's no more than a standard stair with the landing expanded as one of the treads. My guess is your are not " dropping " the stringer to equalize the risers from top to bottom, they are usually not allowed to vary by x which I think is about 1/16.
Just design a standard stair and find out where you are making the error. Try to use a story pole to make the layout of the risers easy on your self without all the math, that is use SU line divide function to establish a ref. FYI Rule of thumb for the run is ( 2x rise) + ( 1x run) = 25 ± 1
When all else fails post your model if you can

Very, very nice. And thesego up high!
All the cross bracing will be compound miters did you get that figured out OK

Standard SU8 set plus some window glass, these and more worked in SU7

It is possible to set the grid frequency much higher. In other words, select 2' x 2' or the equivalent metric, rather than 10' grid. And- without having used Sandbox in a while- can you not select the radius of influence or the inference points to fine tune the effect?

What I ended up doing was adding a new face to a group, by retracing the lines of the group. I ended up pulling the new face out a tiny bit to keep the new layer from "flaring" or reacting with the original face, when orbiting/moving it works for now.

A simple section slice would be fine, you don't need any detail just simple 2D outlines. One might be able to activate a plan view that sits in a corner or it could be in a separate window. Or make where and how the map shows up user selectable. The data is already there in the drawing, but how to tap it?

There is a duh moment for me, I hide and show stuff all the time when I am working on a model, never thought about hiding the model so I could see the center. At any rate I did one video show and it worked out OK. I wish I could find the best possible, set up for you tube. The link I posted for this thread was upload #3.
I will practice and get better. Thanks for your help so far.

Here it is TroubleshootingStyle.zip
unzip it and put the '.style' file into the Styles folder: remember that you can add it as style to your default template so it's in every [new] model and then so you don't have to install it every time...