Doing a quick search, it's some kind of connection panel. Probably for phono, external antenna, speaker and power inputs.

That's a really elegant solution

The only downside is that I have feeling that Windowizer will only work on single planes (I might be wrong).

This is an offshoot from the work I did on the Glass brick/block thread. It's based on Harri Koskinen's Block Lamp and rendered with Thea render.

Here's some views of the SU model:

There are so many options, it's difficult to offer advice without seeing exactly what you have in mind.

Agreed, really nice modelling.

The render could do with a little post-pro TLC. Maybe up contrast to make the lighting even more atmospheric.

@unknownuser said:

Who are theses fantastic fab four ?

I've never seen them before, but they won't amount to much if they don't get a haircut.

If you used the Artisan method then you could use Joint Push Pull on the proxy to add thickness before subdividing.

Using the Curviloft method you can offset each segment to create two sets of profiles that will give you thickness.

@alan fraser said:

You're not alone, but you are probably a fairly rare breed, modelling autos to that degree of detail...for the love of it rather than for practical architectural entourage purposes. Keep it up though, your models are always a joy to behold.

Couldn't agree more.

I'd love to have a go at modelling vehicles at some point, but I do find it a bit of a daunting challenge. There's also a good chance that I'll end up spending way too much time on small details.

Yes, that's what I was referring to. And then there is the size of the windows...............

Of course it would be interesting to see alternative modelling solutions (hint, hint ).

@chedda said:

The most important thing is the site, did your UNI give you nothing ? If so find your own site and then you have something to respond to.

Exactly! You can't do anything without a proper brief.

In my experience site restrictions, planning regulations and budget will determine the overall square meterage of a property. These considerations will limit the possibilities for each room as you address the spacial and aesthetic requirements of living spaces.

@masterpaul said:

However a small room will feel claustrophobic a big room might not feel personal, and too open.

Which is why I mentioned aesthetic considerations and the way people interact with a space. A house may be a machine for living in, but that machine must be designed to allow for how we live inside it.

@masterpaul said:

I know that my brief says just to design a house, and does not mention any furniture, but at the end of the day furniture and a sol goes in it.

Furniture and other practicalities are things that many architects overlook. That's one of the reasons why we end up with doll houses in the UK that have to be kitted out with small furniture.

If you look at the furniture and utilities you require for a house (average sizes are relatively easy to find) then the space needed to accommodate and use that furniture will tell you something useful about room sizes.

Providing a list of room sizes is as useful as supplying the answer to a mathematical equation without any explanation of how you calculated the solution.

Thanks Rich .

@brookefox said:

Why do you provide intermediate profiles as opposed to one at the beginning and one at the end (of the two)? I hope my laziness isn't too glaring.

When I first saw the design I thought that all I needed to do was draw a loop and use the Taper Maker plug-in. Unfortunately this resulted in the mesh twisting and folding back on itself through the loop of the handle. Attempts with other plug-ins resulted in similar results.

I know I'm being obtuse, but a room should be as big as you need to to be and as big as you can afford.

Practically speaking you need to look at furniture sizes and the space people will need to use that furniture comfortably. You also need to consider how people move around and between spaces and allow enough space as you can.

There's no exact science and if you ask a dozen people for their optimum room size, you will get a dozen different answers. Ultimately the room size will depend on a balance between budget, practicality and aesthetic considerations - hence my opening comment.

I can't take credit for the design. It's based on Alessi's Diva watering can by Eero Aarnio.

It's an instant classic that I just had to model.

Thanks Tom

OK here's a more detailed explanation of my use of Curviloft and creating the main proxy for the model.

1. Select just the edges of the profile segments.

2. Launch the Curviloft plug-in using the Loft By Spline option. To see how accurate the result is I made the source image visible and selected a side view with the camera set to parallel projection.

The result is a little too detailed and the overall shape isn't quite right (there is distortion and the symmetry of the handle is off). You need something simpler and more geometric to work well as a proxy for Artisan.

3. Here is the result after making the necessary adjustments - note the Curviloft settings for the profile and segments.

4. Here is the result after applying the Curviloft plug-in.

5. To work on the mesh it's best to unsmooth the geometry.

6. Repeat the above process for the spout.

7. Explode the groups created for the spout and body.

8. Select all of the geometry and select Intersect Faces>With Selection.

9. Remove the internal geometry where the spout passes through the body of the watering can.

10. Split the geometry down the middle (to half your work). Start tidying up the geometry - notice the sloppy way that the spout meets the main body. In this image I've also already begun to correct the incorrect triangulation seen in fig. 8.

11. The results after correcting the mesh. All the triangulation is now consistent and the spout flows into the body of the watering can (it's better connected).

Throughout this process I usually apply subdivision with Artisan to test the changes I make,

12 & 13. Before and after images of the back of the model. As with the spout, pay particular attention to the way the handle joins the body of the watering can.

I think that should cover everything not explained on my Website. If anyone wants a more detailed explanation of the rest of the modelling, just let me know.

Should I just go into more detail about using Curviloft and combining the spout and body models, or do you think it would be a good idea to also expand on the way I tidied up the geometry?

Thanks

I was so engrossed in the modelling that I didn't notice the anthropomorphic qualities and reason for the product name until I started to stage the render scene.

This was supposed to be a quick exercise but I don't mind admitting that I underestimated the amount of work involved. It was honestly a real pain at times, but good experience for future organic modelling. The main plug-ins used were Artisan and Curviloft.

I've also put together a short tutorial/guide for the modelling process, including images of the proxies.

The model is based on Alessi's Diva watering can by Eero Aarnio.

Thanks Jason

I know it could do with a bit more work (mostly on the design of the room), but it was a fun exercise.

This Base Camp video has some pretty good general tips on landscaping: