thanks a lot, i got it to work of course you are right, i masked the wrong part in the material ID such a simple mistake and it was driving me nuts thanks

@matte said: First I learned, When I saved my SU rendered image in a PNG format….I get JUST got the central object image, The SU background comes in blank! So I exported in all JPEG form and I got the full Image (the one I am posting here.), But my quality level dropped ALOT! So is there a better way to save? Another option I am going to try is to use the higher quality PNG image only version and overlay it in Photoshop on top of the background image. I am guessing, if the back ground is Low res and your SU rendered image is Hi res, it will look “fake”, same in reverse as well. So I think In photo shop (I’m a beginner in as well), if the SL image is on one layer and the background is on another, you can individually raise and lower the contrast, brightness and quality (graininess) separately until they “match” before mixing them together onto one layer? Any advice greatly appreciated, otherwise I will keep you posted of what I learn so maybe it might help someone else down the road. Matte Hi Matte, Welcome to the rendering world! Couple questions: What rendering engine are you using? Some of the answers you seek will change based on what renderer type you're using. I usually render out to .TIFF to keep as much information as possible from the render as long as possible. They're much larger files, but they're also uncompressed and loss-less, so they're usually the file type of choice for me. In Photoshop, you can adjust the brightness and contrast (and many other properties) separately on each layer by using adjustments that are "clipped" to layers. Check it out here: Clipping Adjustments to Layers. The quality, though, as you said, is not something that you will want to adjust dynamically while working in a file. A general workflow is to render, post-process, then save down a separate, down-sampled version for posting or your final product. That's a very simplified version of course, but as a rule of thumb you never want to alter your quality until you're done, lest it introduce artifacts and quality loss issues. Hope that helps! Matt

Majid, I don't have access to the SketchUp file at the moment but if you're wondering if faces are reversed, I can assure you they are not. I'm very particular about not having exposed back faces in my models. FWIW, I think this issue was sorted out on the KT forum. Everything pointed to the material image not being in RGB format.

Thank You Rich. I will check those out.

Hi Marieke, I think I need to know a little bit more before I try to answer. The area that is circled you want to be completely white? As far as I know, the color bleed-over from the beige wall on the right is an effect that would take place in the real world in that physical situation, so it looks like that's what is happening. If you're willing to post a Maxwell Model to "Pack'n'Go" then I'd be happy to take a look! Matt

Massimo I discovered what I was doing wrong, I had exported the mask as a 2D jpeg from SU. I rendered this in Shaderlight & the fit is perfect, the only problem is it has masked a couple of surfaces not selected - the mobile whiteboard surface & a jpeg image on the whiteboard on the wall?? Regards John [image: 2zhu_Rendercopy.jpg]

Hi, i made some minor adjustments. 1# ability to create simple bump maps 2# a new workflow between Sketchup-Kerkythea Workflow steps a) drag one of your Sketchup files (*skp) onto Kerkythea starter: this creates a Symbolic link and a Render folder for you, everything organized in 'Desktop/Render Projects/'. Plus, it opens your skp-file in Sub) now, in Su, apply materials and Lights using the bucket fill tool and the Kerkythea plugin`s lights c) export your materials/lights using the Kerkythea plugin and save its file with suffix '*xml' in 'Desktop/Render Projects/Symbolic Link of your Project/@ Render/' to have everything organized d) create bump maps with Kerkythea starter Hope my approach is easy to follow as i feel it it does. I use to save most of my files all near the desktop folder, because its fast, especially in combination with symbolic links. Feedbacks are welcome.

Thea render also can do flythroughs with thea4su and a plugin. It's fast too.

Peter, I would prefer to create the grass effect by using a mask to make the base of the house transparent, using the "spiky grass-like brush" you mentioned with spray or airbrush tool. If you are using Photshop you could also use the free transform tool to adjust perspective. The shadows aspect is crucial though...

I spoke with someone that passed along a few pointers. The best focal length is 55mm, its the closest to the human eye. Back when we spoke we triangulated are position based upon actual features that were available in the CAD drawing. We also physically measured the height of the camera. Since then I have been diving into more GPS and GIS information. Most DSLR cameras these days have a gps. Mapworks add-on to CAD imports points bases upon GPS data of the photo or Phot2Shape plugin for QGIS does the same. Then the point file can be exported as a dxf for CAD or Sketchup Pro. This process can give you a leg to stand on when someone questions the verification of the photo-simulation.

Thank you cino.cihan and Dave R. for responding. I already used two different materials to show the joinery in a clearer manner, but, thickening the edges, is also helping to make the joinery perceptibly clearer yet. Dave R., I understand your point, too. A rendering program will default to showing the edges no matter what was done in SU. I am learning a lot from all the experienced users on this forum. Thanks to everyone who has responded.

Ah. This was very usefull! Thank you

Thank you majid. I can see the animation walk through named dav. Now, I am trying to determine how to play the animation.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks everyone. The client offered to buy Colimo so I of course couldn't say no to that. Pete, I will definitely let you know if I have any questions.

I already started one here: http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=323&t=49323 I guess it would need to create scenes first..., but it would be even better to go one step more, and make images of that scenes (it could be a plugin of it own for exporting scenes to images, or one could use snapshot plugin Thanks.

Thanks Pilou. What I am trying to find is less manual process. Some kind of filter which process all the edges this way. I'll post if found something.

can we have the wet grass ?

such nice and easy tutorial!!. anyway to create ripples too in water?