Thanks and you're right! The piece I modeled this after is at the MET here in ny. It's dated 1918-1919.

Sweet! Merry Christmas to you, as well.

@spadestick said: Yeah, if you get too concerned about dimensions like these, then you have to account for the size and thicknesses of the blades that will cut them, usually they slice a few millimeters off what is the actual intended and exact dimension. That sounds like a set up problem. It doesn't have to work that way.

@brooklynia373 said: This is one of the reasons I love SU. When I do any model that will eventually be realized in the real world I walk thru the steps of how its parts will be made and then assembled. I usually get way to detailed (like actually modeling inlay as opposed to drawing it on the surface) but that helps me figure out how and if the thing can be built, and gauge the amount of work involved. I'd interested in seeing an example of your work? Model and real of course.

As I recall, the chair was pretty normal--easy to sit in and get out of. The arms were just in the right spot, too.

Tom, in this arrangement, the work, perhaps a table leg, is held between the green headstock on the right and the tail stock on the left. The headstock can be rotated with the crank on the right and it has indexing stops, which if used, allow for doing things like cutting facets or flutes. The "lathe" attachment is mounted on a sliding bar that can be moved left and right with the crank on the left. The attachment can also be mounted so one end is higher than the other to allow for cutting tapers. There are other work holding options as well and the machine can be set up to cut dovetails, box joints, mortises and tenons and any number of other sorts of things. I also make dowels on mine. [image: 4550668377_a422a19ab8_n.jpg] And cut tapered sliding dovetails as on the leg for an office chair. [image: 4430908260_b671d48b42_n.jpg] @Hornoxx, no, it's not a machine I'm looking to buy. I have one with all the bells and whistles already. And thank you on the scales. They were actually quite easy to do.

@mrossk said: ...your grain matching could use a little work Yeah. It's early in the process, though.

Thank you, pilou and Dave.

Thanks for the monochrome images of the joinery. Very nice detail. Would be fun to build.

http://www.vilac.com/voitures/petites-voitures-en-bois.html

Sure did work OK. They improved my grandmother's Georgian farmhouse by building an outside toilet connected to a new sewer, when I was about six... Before that there was an 'earth-closet' at the end of the large garden - she grew great vegetables !

Gene, not all plugins and extensions are available in the Extension Warehouse.

Thanks, slbaumgartner. There's a 12-in. overhang at the ends, and 37 in. between legs on the sides, so you could squeeze in 6 people. Otherwise, you're right: The table legs would get in the way. Best, dh

Nice tutorial as always, Dave!

I like the hinged sections, too, but they probably wouldn't work so well for me. My desk is always cluttered with stuff. I'd never be able to get into it. I added some textures. [image: liwM_AndreasHansenDeskDK1975.png]

Thank you, sir. I could see myself actually building this one. If I had any room for another piece of furniture. Best, dh

Nice furniture! And for those who ask themselves how the nice looking profile was made... http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/121563/routing-a-profile-with-follow-me

"Morning Practice" I am always happy when I read that - then there are mostly nice wooden things to see keep going

Ely Go Here: http://www.cncroutersource.com/build-your-own-cnc-router.html They have a whole set of pages of stuff for the DIY including calculators. I have mine down to .001 inch error, and I can tell based on simple math I learned there you won't do aluminum.

That is interesting I will watch the fonts as well. In my case though, it was a sizing issue. When I resized the viewport, everything showed up correctly. That has happened to me multiple times.