Structurally, I think you could probably go with wider spacing, even if sheathing and roofing material will be added, but if a snow load is a possibility I might go with 2X8 timbers to span that 8 feet or so. Now, if that is simply for shade and will not have any sort of sheathing etc, then the more important aspect is how it looks, and how many hours of shade it provides given the dimensions of the lumber and the spacing. It's orientation to the path of the sun is a further determinant for that as well. I built this Pergola on the back of my house using 2X8 on 12 inch centers. [image: Pergola.jpg] But that was only due to design purposes and not a structural need. With the spaces between the "rafters", I think you might be able to eliminate the strips on top the run perpendicular to the rafters as they serve the same structural purpose as the spaces. Or you could eliminate the spacers instead if they are not needed for design purposes or for contributing to the shade.

It will be used outside. I needed some outside seating for my sisters 21st, so i made 8 of these. its made from redwood,and ill probably just paint them. Tom.

Guys, when there are classes like that, please, let me know way ahead. As now we have "The Daily CatchUp", we can feature these classes like we do to others. It may not fill your classroom but eventually can add a couple of people.

Hey guys, just wanted to post this link.... http://www.sketchthis.net/2009/06/using-dynamic-door.html Its a video tutorial I did to go along with that Dynamic Door... Check it out, it will explain all of its features....

I think there are several tutorials out there on drawing cabriole legs but they aren't terribly difficult to do. Basically you draw the front elevation and the side elevation and extrude them through each other. Then intersect the extrusions and delete the waste. The rounding of the front corner is a little more involved but you could create a path for Follow Me from the corner resulting from the intersection or you could create horizontal sections, round the corners of those sections and then use the Skin plugin to make the faces. I would be inclined to draw these legs from scratch because I expect you'd work harder modifying a typical cab leg to make it look like the ones on the chair. Have you already had an opportunity to take measurements? Do you have ready access to the chair? It looks like a very nice piece. Dave

This sounds like a job for a dynamic component. Is this something that you do often?

@ron - cellarmaker said: Coen, Sorry about that. I'll have to learn all the rules here. Thanks for the heads up. I'll limit my further questions to the woodworkers forum. No problem,I have "merged" the two posts. @ron - cellarmaker said: I'll stick to the woodworking forum so as to not cause any problems. But if you have any suggestions (or answers, as I will will no doubt have tons of questions) please check over there. Any input you have will be greatly appreciated. I also regularly visit this forum but I'm sure the folks here will answer all your questions properly.

Yes. That is a major key to it. It will read groups but then I believe you get a separate line item for each copy. Components make sense anyway because they improve editing efficiency. If you are going to the cutlist level with a drawing, draw every piece you'd have to make in wood as a component. If you were going to make a solid wood panel, draw it as the separate pieces of wood you'd need to glue together. Otherwise it will tell you that you need a board the full width of the piece. That's fine if you can get it and control it but wide pieces of wood tend to be difficult to control as they'll want to cup and warp.

This project is on my short "to-do" list. I should have this one done soon. By the way, I neglected to mention that the SketchUp model is now in the 3D Warehouse here. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?uq=06706272781836509090&styp=c

Hi Rich, Wardrobe looks great. I will comment on use rather than construction. I have 2 kids and have built 0 wardrobes. I echo Dave's comments re: 3rd drawer a small upper drawer would be handy. Not sure how you are thinking of how the shelves on the right will work. It would be handy to be able to change the shelf heights as your needs change no idea what the products or methods are called that let you do this ... The section on the left for hanging clothes looks big for a new born - 3 year old you may want to consider adding a shelf at the bottom that could be used for toddler years and removed when the clothes are big enough to warrant it. In thinking down the line not sure if there is anything that you could do now that would account for your child opening and smashing fingers in the drawers when they start to crawl and cruise around. My el cheapo solution in the 'Tupperware Drawer' in the kitchen is chucking a 2x4 on edge behind it so it won't close. You may want to ask the builder to have something that you can anchor the top with so it won't topple. Eventually you'll want to train them to climb in their drawer at night by themselves, don't want the thing falling on them as they climb in. Post your final design would love to see it.

Just found the woodworking forum and saw your plans / build. Looks Great. I actually just designed a similar bed but as a Queen Bunk Bed, that can be converted in the future to a loft style if we move one of the kids to a different room. I need to get some help rendering but maybe I'll post the project here too.

That's great. Please pass on to him that I like his bench very much. Ciao! Dave

Very Cool. I did a SketchUp of a Shaker clock featured a couple years ago in Popular Woodworking Mag and submitted it to their collection at the 3D warehouse. Here's a link. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=86450875c3197c64738e43095496b061&prevstart=0

No worries Ron.

I'm certainly not. I just do the occasional bit at college, it is very pleasing though.

Dear All, Adding to my own thread, this is where one can obtain linseed oil paints in the US: http://www.solventfreepaint.com/ Regards, Bob

I appreciate that, thanks.

Thanks for the update Roger. I didn't know there is a non skid surface on the bottom side. If it doesn't affect light transmission, leave and put it toward the grille. I've cut Plexiglas and hard Polycarbonate on my tablesaw. It works alright but you do have to get the right feed speed. The worst part about them is the "sawdust" clings to everything and it is hard to get rid of.

In addition to Jeff's comments, consider reducing the number of segments used for the radius at the front of the foot as well as for the roundover. Six segments will be plenty and you could probably get away with 3 or 4 for the roundover along the edges. If you don't need to radius the top edge of the foot as Jeff did and the large arc doesn't end in a segment that is perpendicular to the top edge, draw a temporary extension to the last segment and include it in the Follow Me path. Follow Me will continue the roundover beyond the part. Select all of it and run Intersect Selected. Then delete the waste. (Think not turning the router off until after the bit has finished the cut.) As Jeff said, scaling up will help to prevent those tiny faces that SketchUp doesn't like to fill. I find the Tape Measure to be quick and easy for this sort of thing. [image: Trestle_Base_Assembly1.jpg] [image: Trestle_Base_Assemblyhidden1.jpg] Edited to add: As far as using Follow Me goes, try selecting the edges that make up the path before running the tool. I think sometimes that gives you better control and you don't need to be able to see the entire path when you run the tool. Here I radiused all of the top edges except where it joins to the other component. I drew a radius on the side at the top of the large curve and used Push/Pull to get rid of the waste. The remaining edges were radiused as before with Follow Me. [image: Trestle_Base_Assembly1-1.jpg]

I have e-mailed the guy asking if I could have plans to make models from them. No reply as yet.