Posts made by d12dozr

Sounds like a job for JointPushPull!

I've graduated to Fusion 360 for much of my 3D printing modeling. I still like Sketchup for simpler models and architectural work though!

You should be able to use it 'forever'. There are people still using much older versions - I still have Version 8 installed, and it works fine. Trimble just won't support it, and you may not be able to install it on newer computers in the future.

Great work, Dave! Love seeing finished projects.

@syburn said:

So its more organic, curvy, with patterns on the surface.

You can use Sketchup with plugins like Curviloft and Subdivide and Smooth for a while, but you will run into limitations pretty quickly, especially with patterns on curved surfaces.

You may want to look into using Rhino then. I believe our resident skate park designer Jeff graduated to Rhino for those kind of shapes. Many architects use Rhino as well. It's more accurate and much easier to use for organic shapes. It is still a surface modeler (vs a solid modeler), so you'll want to keep good modeling practices for 3D printing in mind. It'll be much easier for texture mapping your shapes as well.

Fusion360 could work as well, but I haven't seen many architectural projects made with it.

@cotty, I think he's asking more about modeling, than printing.

You should get great results with Fredo6's Tools on Surface and JointPushPull.

Box nailed it - I totally agree that anyone who learns how to use Sketchup "properly" with good modeling practices will be just fine. Keep in mind that plugins are virtually a necessity for making great models for 3D printing.

Every CAD program has limitations, Sketchup included. Solid modeling programs can be easier to make a solid model, often providing a warning if the modeling operation will make a non-manifold model. The level of complexity certainly takes some of the "fun" out of the modeling that Sketchup is known for.

I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the job. Sketchup is fantastic for making architectural-type models - no big surprise. Solidworks is great for mechanical engineering models. Blender is good for artistic purposes, and Zbrush for character modeling.

Can any of the programs be used for making other models than what they're best known for? Sure! Half the battle is knowing how to use the program, and great users can perform magic in their tool of choice. However, you're not going to win any character-modeling awards using Solidworks.

Personally I still use Sketchup for some projects, but I've mostly outgrown it for Fusion 360. Parametric modeling is a major time saver when iterating a product, and it's much easier to make complex organic objects.

So now @syburn - the question is, what are you modeling for 3D printing? If the models are similar to what you already use Sketchup for, then you'll be just fine.

You can use the Solid tools in Pro to split the model in Sketchup, or probably a simpler method is to download Netfabb where you can create a cutting plane and slice the model instantly.

Netfabb licensing is similar to Sketchup, you download the full version, but it reverts to a free limited (but still very useful for 3D printing!) version that you can use indefinitely. I use it for opening STL files, checking and fixing them for errors, scaling models, and separating models like you need.

Excellent detail on the model, Greg. Nice job modeling and the printing looks good too.
Thanks for sharing the final photos.

Thanks a lot for the update! Nice to know what is working well in the field, and really looking forward to seeing how the model turns out.

I like the idea of laser cutting the finer details, that makes a lot of sense so the model doesn't get so chunky.

You're gonna be pretty tickled especially if this is your first 3D print!

Hello, nothing like jumping off the deep end to get a good education!

The first step is to choose the printing process you want to use. For color printing, most architecture prints are made with "Full-Color Sandstone". For a plain white model, the same sandstone without color data, or SLS nylon both make a great model.

The next step is to choose the scale to print at. You'll probably want to make it small enough to not break the bank. However the smaller you go, the fewer details will be visible on the final model. A 1/16" scale is pretty small, and you'll lose a lot of detail. Maybe double that would be a good balance of size and detail or this model.

You could scale down the Sketchup model, and use the tape measure to start measuring details - how wide are the porch pillars? ...how thick is the roof? Those kinds of features will need to be at least 2 mm thick to be printed properly. Often you'll need to exaggerate features somewhat to make them strong enough to be printed at small scale without making the whole model larger.

Another question to think about is, will you want the model all one piece, or would you like the roof to be separate so you can see inside?

For getting the model printed, Shapeways has great prices. i.materialise works well with Sketchup files, and WhiteClouds is also well known in the space.

Here's a much simpler project I did that you may reference and ask questions about: http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=81%26amp;t=57157

Excellent, glad it helped!

Impossible to tell from your images, but if you upload the SKP model we can take a look!

Something like this?

You may download the attached SKP file and follow the scenes to see how I did it.

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Foot_Base steps.skp

Love your solution, Gilles!

For more complex models using Sketchup Make, you can also use the BoolTools plugin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1HgNiwuq7Y

Hi Corey, check that the model is uploaded at the correct scale on Shapeways. I uploaded your model without any changes, and it shows up fine for me, so that's the only thing I can think of!

The problem shape looks really complex for follow me, with very sharp turns and intersecting/overlapping lines. You probably will need to redo the part. A few things to try before running the follow me operation are:

• Scale the part up 1000x
• simply the profile geometry to 4 or 6 sides
• separate and group the path into several pieces so it doesn't overlap, then after running the operation combine the groups using Outer Shell

An alternative to redrawing the part is to download Netfabb Basic and use it to fix the STL errors before printing. Results may vary though, depending on how bad the errors are.

Cool, but they gotta work on their physics engine - no gravity in outer space!

Hard to tell for sure from your images, but the first model looks like it has an internal face at the top of the center bulge. To fix it, right click > Hide the top curved face, and delete the internal face. Then Edit > Unhide > Last to replace the hidden face.

The bottom model looks like it has no thickness. One way to fix that is using the JointPushPull plugin.

Fantastic project. Very interested to see the process and results!