Reducing the volume of material might not reduce the cost as much as you would hope. A lot of times the high cost is due to all the other factors: time, space in the printer, cleanup...etc. AND, be aware that there is a huge difference in how much printing services charge from one to another. I've seen astronomical prices from smaller local guys compared to what you will get from places like imaterialise.com

Use the Cleanup plugin to get rid of those extra faces you have piling up on each other. What is happening is that often when you delete a line and redraw it, or if you draw two lines on top of each other, SU will make two faces on top of each other (even though everything "looks" normal). You have to go through and delete these extra faces or just run Cleanup plugin to get rid of them. But, that aside... You have to think of 3D print modelling just like you would be building something in real life. Every wall has to have a thickness: in other words, a FACE is NOT a wall. A wall must have two sides and a middle (thickness). 3D printing does not know what to do when you just have a single face because it sees this as a piece of geometry without any solidity.

Fantastic! Thanks a lot, TIG.

@unknownuser said: @unknownuser said: Where did you find these SU images of the 3D printed castle?? Look at the 10 and 12 images under the video Nice 1, thanks

The running chair!

@joncobreti said: ( just i was wondering.....what do you think about use meshlab for simplify the mesh adn late use basic netfabb for fix the error......??) and is better try to create a single mesh like a skin....or print the base for one side and all the buildind box for another...? Thank you Antonio, how big will the final model be? If larger than your printer, you need more than one mesh - either you make a single mesh and cut it up, or you model the pieces separately from the beginning. If the entire model will fit on your printer, then you can use a single mesh. Regarding Meshlab and Netfabb...you need to get the model a little better before those programs will help you. The Google Earth terrain is probably has no thickness, so you need to work on that first. Then I recommend cloud.netfabb.com for fixing the file - if it doesn't work, then you'll have to go back to Sketchup and do some fixing up.

Hey! Thanks, I put my fingers in the thermistor and change the value. Now, i am sure the thermistor is ok. I think it's going to be a software problem.

take a glance to Kito Raupp for some creative methods! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT5r3AQZBnw

@solo said: That online solution was the monkeys balls, worked like a charm. Excellent! Glad to hear that, Pete

keknor, did dukejazz's suggestions help you? You may have to type the file extension [.stl] at the end of the filename after you export it, since the exporter doesn't always do that automatically.

Cheers, glad that helped

He not done is he? Look like he needs to make four more for the set of five in the frame picture. And again he could make them life size too.

Thanks Rich! I'm happy to answer any questions you all have about the book in this thread.

3D Printing is for Housewares! These mini keg shotglasses are 3D printed in ceramic powder, then glazed and fired in a kiln. [image: M3pY_CeramicKegShotglass.jpg] [image: cYNm_KegShotglass.jpg] This is a tea candle holder that I made as a gift for my sister in 2010. She still uses it almost every day! Printed in SLS nylon. [image: 5605152809_5f66e5bfa9_b.jpg] [image: 5605155479_9f2971a74d_b.jpg] A lamp also made in SLS nylon. Its fun to pick up and play with, and also throws a neat pattern when lit. [image: 6808937065_5c6ed69f5d_b.jpg] [image: 6826296941_1fcf991ca6_b.jpg] [image: 6826296503_c2a3f38c54_b.jpg]

On that tv show "The Profit" the guy said he bought a 3D printer for $250,000. It was for toy prototyping.

When I loaded this model SU said it had problems. Fixing problems made the hulls unsolid. So I chose not to fix. Like you the solids did not make a solid when combined. Solidsolver could not solve it. Starting back with the three separate components: Solid inspector found one tiny tiny hole in the hull at the inside gunnel. I fixed this and made it a component and placed the hull mirrored on the opposite side. Combining the solids again failed to make a solid. Solid inspector showed numerous errors in the resulting group. Too much to work out. I scaled the model up 1000 times before using outer shell. That worked and scaled down OK to be solid.

Prime Gray (yes it's SLA) and Form 1 prints should be very similar. Prime gray also has those little bumps from the support structures. In your case, I'd look up someone with good reviews on 3DHubs or MakeXYZ with a Formlabs printer and have them make some parts for you to see if they're good enough for what you need, and go from there. Might turn out to be your best option!

I was going to ask TIG about this, but he's already done it! Scale by volume plugin! http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=493763#p493763

You picked a good one, Ken! Here's a photo of a part, I think the one being made the video above: [image: 2Ff5t0x.jpg] There are more photos of the machine here: http://imgur.com/a/Knog5 Dukejazz, I have heard the value of the machine is over $1 million, and the raw titanium powder used in the machine is ~$500/kg.

@Ellipser You are right ,everything must be solid, but that is Rule no.0