Hi Dave, I saw an article in the Sept. 2000 issue of FWW on the Jefferson Lap Desk. I've thought about how you could adapt it to laptop use by having the top fold out to the side or having a slide out part below the top for using a mouse.

Hi Peter, Thanks. It's not my script and I'm still not smart enough to write them. I haven't done any new styles for awhile. Maybe I should try some. FWIW, I modeled Thomas Jefferson's lap desk yesterday at lunch. I dovetailed all four corners of the drawer using that plugin in less than a minute. [image: 4440881163_6c9d8584e8.jpg] So what have you been working, Peter?

Jim makes some excellent comments. I addition, I would suggest that you make each piece that you would make in the shop, a component. For example the case sides should each be instances of the same component. Currently, the sides themselves are not components at all. The same goes for the front and rear base trim. While the side base trim pieces are components, they could be instances of the same component which would be more efficient. The same goes for the drawer sides If you want to get accurate dimensions out of your model, you might want to take a look at aligning mating components. The drawers seem to need a bit of attention in that area. The lower drawer as drawn is too tall for its opening. If you follow the dimensions as drawn, you'll wind up with some troubles when you try to fit the drawer. I'm curious about why you have the global axes repositioned--notice in Jim's screen shots that the green axis is up. It's the blue one that should be up and the red running from left to right across the front of the model. Many of the component axes seem to be in strange locations, too. This leads me to think you're working too hard. Tomot makes the point that you don't really need the dust panel between the drawers. He's right. You don't. Although I doubt there'd be much of a cost saving in leaving it out. It doesn't need to be as thick as you made it of course. If you do opt to remove it, my suggestion would be to add traditional runners which would act as kickers at the bottom. I think that would look nicer than setting runners in the sides of the case and having exposed grooves plowed in the sides. If you're going to dovetail the drawer sides into the front, why not dovetail the back into the sides as well? You might want to cut the drawer back so the bottom panel can slide in after the box is assembled. Put a groove on the inside of the drawer front to receive the bottom and fasten the bottom to the back with a single screw. Run the grain on the bottom panel across the width of the drawer and put a slot in for the screw so the bottom can expand and contract with seasonally without trying to push the box apart. I would leave the legs off the sides of the case and set it into a rabbet around the top of the base. Some small corner blocks can be used to strengthen the corners. Keep plugging away.

@solo said: Me wonders what a person stores in those drawers. Quick render. Tuna?

Thanks Dave, I like your idea for the screws. @dave r said: ...As far as attaching the posts, I would set them into notched corners in the drawer case... Could you explain this further please? How would I make the case? I'll PM you the model as I have it so far for you to play with...I really do appreciate your help.

Just got through looking at the site; lots of great info. Thank You for sharing that.

Without seeing how you have things set up, I would guess you have Face Style set to either Monochrome or Hidden Line. change it to Shaded with Textures and see what happens. You can find the setting under the View menu.

Hi Merc and welcom, That is a great start; I like the tool chest. This is a great forum to help you learn SU. One thing I have learned it to get familiar with layers and scenes; they will help you keep your model organized. Also, on the woodworking end of it check out the Design, Click, Build Blog at Fine Woodworking: http://www.finewoodworking.com//blog/design-click-build. You also might want to download models from this site and the 3D Warehouse and go through them to see how they are made. Jerry

Yes - this guy is awesome! I'm using his dovetails plugins, but only one is translated in English. The angle cut and drilling milling are very useful.

Jean's idea is quite reasonable but perhaps alittle more complex than is really needed. There's nothing wrong at all with dozens or even hundreds of scenes; take a look at some of the models done for oil refinery planning. However, you don't need to make an entirely separate scene for each view of each part, or even for every part. It's quite ok to have several instances of the part and align each one up for the view you need. You can dimension each one as required and put the dimensions on a separate layer would be my advice. If, like me, you are using LayOut you can simplify things a bit by making use of LOs ability to choose a view direction in each viewport and to do dimensions outside the SU model. Clearly, a scene with a single instance of a component can be inserted into an LO doc several times and a different view of the part chosen each time. Better yet you can have several parts in a single scene and so long as you stagger them the right way they will not be seen unless you align the LO view just right. See http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=8897f179f3a39153ad8e59ce1bc6436 and look at the 'parts' scene for an example. This is the PDF generated from that model - Rustic Pine Bed.pdf

I'll try.

Hi Chris and welcome! I am not a woodworker myself but always liked the discussions "down here" - as well as admired woodworking in general.

Just used the Drawer plugin - it works GREAT!!! THANKS!!!!

Thank you gentlemen. Todd, I like the bench, too. I'd like to have one in my shop but the last thing I need is another horizontal surface. If I built that, there'd no room for building another boat. Dan, you're welcome. Glad to relive at least a little of your boredom. Chris, I like that quarter sawn oak material, too but I think I need to find some additional images that could be colored to match. The ray flecks are clearly repeated too often with just one board.

Lots and lots of stuff to consider indeed. I was mostly thinking of sheet goods optimization when I asked. The thing about lumber is kind of difficult due to potentials for waste-causing defects or laying out parts for nice grain patterns. Stuff you well know, of course. My feeling is that there's really not much point in trying to do layout and optimization for lumber but for sheet goods it would be nice. I hadn't thought about having thumbnails of the components in a cut list but I can see how some folks might find that quite handy. Sorting out molding would definitely be nice, too. Keep up the good work.

As I sit here brushing of a load of sawdust, I was wondering if anyone has the problem I have with my Ryobi biscuit cutter. When I use the setting for a number 10 biscuit, the biscuit is too big for the slot. I have to cut one slot for a #10 and the other for a #20 to get a fit that will close with no gap.

I really enjoyed watching Norm. My family would hurry home from church on Sundays (pre DVR's, but we would record on VHS tapes when needed) to see Norm. My son and I would recite together, with Norm, word-for-word, the "Safetly Glasses" spiel. He did inspire me when I was learning woodworking. It was him, books and magazines. He certainly sold a lot of tools along the way. I've nothing bad to say about him today (I mean, right now, while I'm writing this post, after 2 glasses of wine).

Pretty nice. I think you should build a real one.

The comment about the melamine covered MDF made me laugh. I just did a bathroom redesign for my own house which came with lots of melamine. The funny part is that I bought IKEA oak flooring (real but real thin oak veneer over thin composite)and glued it over the existing white melamine. The thought probably makes purists choke, but it looks good. And I even added some new melamine in the form of black edge banding. I promise to post photos of the finished project just to dispel the images you have already conjured up.

Did you explode the model by hand or use the ruby that displaces all the parts? And yes, nice work.