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  • 3D- Modelling

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    mitcorbM
    Hi, vishalkhanna: To achieve the photorealistic appearances you need to take your Sketchup model into a Rendering application, such as Kerkythea, VRay, Shaderlight, but not limited to these. To have a photorealistic animation/video you would assemble sequential views in a video editor.
  • Wood working

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    soloS
    I'm more interested in your version of Sketchup.
  • Big White Blob

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    R
    I get a similar problem at times on my Mac at work, an aging machine. I think it's a graphics card issue, occasionally I get relief by changing the open GL settings. Bob Lang
  • Gary Rogowski furniture

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    D
    Dave, I can always count on your having a well-focused eye. Many thanks for the constructive suggestions. dh
  • Cutlist plugins

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    T
    Hi Dave, thanks for passing on my suggestions. It's very heartening to see Steve's commitment to his upgrade program - I wish the makers of my Laser Machine software showed the same concern for their users! In the meantime, I'm loving the ability to dump an .svg of all my parts in one go (and no more counting the nuts and bolts on a 'blueprint'!!) - this plugins definitely a keeper. (time to get into the boss for a PayPal donation!)
  • Oak Bow fronted staircase with joinery modeled.

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    M
    Some pics of it in our shop... sorry about the guy posing! [image: IMAG0075.jpg] [image: IMAG0076.jpg] [image: IMAG0078.jpg] [image: IMAG0079.jpg] [image: IMAG0080.jpg]
  • K2WS_Tools a joint tool set for SU

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    D
    Most helpful. Many thanks for taking the time. dh
  • What type of wood.

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    W
    I think Poplar would be a good choice for the frames. It is tight pored and would take the paint very well. I recently made two hallway benches out of poplar and it is very easy to work with. I made the cases out of the poplar on these two pieces also because they were stained instead of painted but that can get a little pricy. If your cases are not going to be exposed, I would opt to use birch plywood probably. I personally don't like working with MDF. Clear select pine would also probably work well but has splitting tendencies sometimes. However, I recently made some raised panels for a couple of doors and frames for my brother to put in his new retirement cottage loft, and these worked really well. He was going to finish them natural instead of painting them though.
  • Latest woodworking commission

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    boofredlayB
    Wow that is beautiful. I'll take 3!
  • How do you make an exploded view??????

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    Dave RD
    You have too many things in nests and components that contain components and loose geometry. The back panel for example is not a component but all that geometry is included with components in a nested component. Nested components have their place but what I saw in your model is something I frequently see in other beginner's models. It is easily repairable and we'll cover that when we talk.
  • Problem with components

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    Dave RD
    Ken, if there's no unselected geometry attached to the selected stuff when you are making the component, the Replace Selection with Component box will be automatically checked. If, when you are making the component, that box is not checked automatically, it is your clue that you have unselected geometry attached. There are times when it is handing to select only part of the geometry you have drawn for making a component. An example in my work flow is crown moldings around cabinets. I'll often draw the crown around the three sides of the case using Follow Me and then, when I know I have the correct profile, I'll split it into components so it will be accurately represented in the cut list. For most parts however, I draw one the geometry for one component before I move on to the next part. I generally use a triple click of the Select tool on the geometry to ensure I get all of the attached geometry selected before I make a component. Making one component at a time in most cases is easier and there are fewer chances for errors.
  • SU pro upgrades

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    Dave RD
    Tom, if you have an earlier pro version, it would cost you $95 dollars to upgrade to SU8 Pro.
  • Components in model show as "+" but don't appear in drawing

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    B
    I will try some of the suggestions. I will try and post my model when I get to a wifi connection sand can figure out how to post my model. Right now all I have internet connection is a iPad2. It will take a few days.
  • 3D Warehouse traffic

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    D
    Jim, Many thanks for taking the time to look at the model so closely. Good points to remember for future modeling. dh
  • Router Profiles

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    Dave RD
    If you know a dimension in the drawing such as the height of the cutter profile, you should be able to resize the drawing accurately. Unless you are drawing a profile to use as a pattern for making a cutter, I would suggest keeping the number of segments to a minimum to help keep the model's file size under control.
  • What I use SU for

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    kenK
    @tig said: I was actually born a few miles south of Leicester... BUT I've been in the far NE hundreds of miles away almost forever since... Perhaps, conversely I need a trip to France To top up on fine wine, cheeses and kitchen cabinets! Not high-jack this thread. TIG I looked up Northumbria UK on Google Earth. Darn, the land looks as if you live in Texas. Did I see some land oil rigs on the horizon in one of the photos of near you? Ken
  • Outdoor furniture

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    D
    Morton, I neglected to thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you liked the modeling. dh
  • Smart components

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    honoluludesktopH
    Sometimes great Architects are those that see form in order, like Kahn. [image: CRI_75156.jpg] Then there are those like FLW, that see form in space. [image: falldraw.jpg]
  • Mission originals

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    Dave RD
    Very nice work David. Keep it up.
  • Architectual Woodworking Package

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    L
    hey, prismcnd. Looking good, so far. I have three comments: Because the spacing of the pilasters does not appear to be uniform (page 04), I would suggest distinguishing the major and minor verticals. I could see two ways of doing it. The first would be to make the smaller pilaster not have a capital. That way it would read as the odd-one out. That would help some, but doesn't completely address that you still would have uneven spacing. So, you could emphasize the door and both windows with a large pilaster on each end, then small ones in between with or without a capital. On the arched windows, it seems odd that the trim is the same profile on the verticals as over the arch. It could read as two pilasters and an arch if you made the vertical profile different and have a little more bulk, maybe even have the inset panel like the large pilasters. The length of the valence could use to be broken up, in my opinion. Maybe dental work or some expression of brackets? Finally, a suggestion unrelated to the design: the trim could be rendered to look a little more white and less gray. The cream color (at least on my screen) on pages 09 and 10 look good. Good luck!

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