Indeed, Peter. It also depends upon what you need to get out of the model when finished. It wouldn't be all that useful to have a cutlist showing halves or quarters of parts when you need the whole thing.
The top surface is only thick at the edges. most of it is half the visible thickness. So normal butt hinges applied to the bottom surface would work just fine. But that requires the notches so the thicker edges of the leaves clear.
It's not as pretty as a rule joint but it is simple. The table was designed for farmhouse/rustic summer cottage type decor. I could see making one out of well-seasoned construction grade lumber or WRC for a porch.
Nope. Not more than I wanted to know. I hadn't thought about it until now but the base would be turned separately from the urn so you can get it through the bandsaw sitting on its bottom. Makes sense and certainly safer.
@davidheim1 said:
Not sure exactly how that works
the mechanism looks basically like a nail gun firing pin that shoots the blade out of the way.. (at 0:40 in the video above)
as far as the detection, i imagine the blade has a charge applied to it and if your body touches the blade, the circuit closes and the safety feature activates?
I work with millimeters and imperial and I don't round.
When I work in imperial I would cut a 4" nailer
When I work in metric it would be a 100mm nailer
I will check the thickness of panels and adjust them to 1 decimal in mm.
I keep imperial and metric standards.
I'm afraid I got the discussion sidetracked from Gene's design. It's very interesting, and it shows how Mackintosh took the Arts & Crafts esthetic in a new direction. Gene's model looks to be very faithful to the original.
dh
Sorry, but I have no idea whether this piece was used as a two-sided bookcase. The absence of a back is a concern because the piece is liable to rack with some good stiffener. But I just model 'em.
Thanks for all the good comments.
Best,
dh