Topics created by Dave R

@tuna1957 said:

Cool.... is that plugin in the store yet ? 👍

I can sell you a copy for $5. 😄

👍 👍 👍

Nice work Dave--model and rendering! Thanks for sharing.

I've always liked the appearance and style of furniture plans found in the old books from the 1800s and into the early 1900s. I had this idea to try simulating an old style plan using SketchUp and LayOut. This morning I had some time to play and came up with this. This is based on a plan in a book from the early 1920s and it's typical of the sort of plans woodworkers might work from if they were using plans at all. These days I would expect most woodworkers who work from plans would find this too spare. They'd want much more detail than is provided in this plan.

Mahogany Tea Table Plan.png

I see. You asked for KMZ files which don't have anything to do with KT so I was confused.

I generally don't save those XML files after I've made the final render. And I know in the case of that one, I did move the lights after I got into KT. Sorry.

You're welcome.

Yes. Sold out quite awhile ago.

Thank you, sir.

I did the vise hardware several years ago for a different workbench for them. Fortunately I saved the component. I doubt I really got paid for the time the hardware took originally but at least it's now spread out over two projects. Who knows? maybe it'll get used again.

Thank you Dave.

Not as I saw that you used Kerky

Regards

Welcome to Sketchucation, Don.

@deklund said:

Hi Dave,

I purchased both the basic and advanced DVD's and appreciate all the useful tips and techniques.

Thank you. I'm happy to hear you've found them helpful.

@deklund said:

For example I have been drawing on different active layers which could be for room 1, room 2, dims etc. I'm annoyed when elements behave strangely when another layer is made visible or not and I read in another post that best practice is to draw EVERYTHING on layer 0 and then assign to layers after the fact.

Yes. Making layers active is a bad habit and it sounds like you are finding the trouble is has caused. Best practice is to keep Layer 0 active and only give other layers to groups and components (objects). ALL edges and faces keep Layer 0 assigned to them. Only the object containers are given other layers. This means you aren't chasing the active layer and you will avoid the annoyance you describe. The workflow is easier and you won't create problems.

FWIW, you don't really put things "on" layers in SketchUp. You give layers to objects. In later versions of SketchUp they stopped using "layers" and replaced them with "tags" which I think is a more appropriate description considering how they are supposed to be used.

@deklund said:

Can you kindly direct me to any posts you have authored that talk about general best practices for trouble free drawing. Even better would be some explanation of the weird behaviors that happen.

I can't think of specific posts that I've authored for general best practices although I've covered what I find to be best practices for me. The layers/tags thing as above, for example, only components in my models, no groups (That makes some people come unhinged but it's part of my workflow. It's worked for me for more than 15 years of using SketchUp but you can decide for yourself.) Leverage the power of components. Length Snapping off in Model Info>Units and highest precision available for the chosen units. Model in place so you don't need to do so much data entry. As I showed in the Basics video, after setting out a few parts to establish the outer bounds of the model, the rest of the parts are modeled to fit. don't get too excited about adding materials to your model. Make sure the geometry is correct first. Materials can mask problem geometry and you don't need things getting in the way.

@deklund said:

I use Make 2017 because, again, I am an intermittent user and I hate subscription based software.

I expect you should find SU Make more than adequate for your hobbyist use. It's very powerful and if you are making your models correctly, by the time you get to the shop it'll be like you're building the project for the second time. No surprises.

@deklund said:

Thanks for your contributions to the woodworking community and for any advice on this topic.

Don

Thank you! Feel free to start new threads when you have questions. Happy to help.

👍

@Cotty, with many thanks to my long-suffering editor, here is a copy of the table of contents from the book.

Pages from SU advanced techniques.pdf

Don't you start, Pilou. That's the way the piece was made. Take it up with the designer.

Dave's Videos are always a model of precision! 😎

Youtube Video

Seems to be an excellent example for having a look at model axes 😉
(link)

Thank you gentlemen.

@hornoxx said:

Amazing how filigran the small joint is between armrest and backrest...

It's a metal band bent into a U with a threaded pin passing through under the arm rest into the frame of the back rest. From what I can see, it looks like and afterthought to me. Not well designed. The position of the backrest is supposed to be adjustable. I don't think it's really designed to be used, though.

Looks like those seats are functional, anyway.

JA Motte Sideboard.png

As I recall, the chair was pretty normal--easy to sit in and get out of. The arms were just in the right spot, too.

@mrossk said:

...your grain matching could use a little work 😉

😄

Yeah. It's early in the process, though. 😉

Thanks for the monochrome images of the joinery. Very nice detail. Would be fun to build.

http://www.vilac.com/voitures/petites-voitures-en-bois.html 😄