stl importer by Jim Foltz
I'll give that a try. Thanks.
stl importer by Jim Foltz
I'll give that a try. Thanks.
Good evening All.
I am working with a 3D file of a head.
The file comes from http://www.facegen.com/sampleExports.htm and I'm using the stl solid.
When I import as inches I get a model that is way too large but is a solid. When I import as mm I get the correct size but not a solid.
I have tried importing in inches and scaling down but that doesn't seem to be working very well.
Any ideas anyone?
Good morning All.
I use SU every day, but only in the cabinet arena with CabinetSense.
In this case I am working with importing a human head as a 3ds file and need to section it. The model comes from http://www.facegen.com/sampleExports.htm
I have TIG's slicer but it won't work because the model is not a solid.
I have TT's solid inspector but I guess the model is not enough of a solid for that to work and look for errors.
Also, the model seems to be way out of scale when imported.
My first task is to figure out how to make this a solid.
Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
SU8
Thanks.
Hi All
Is there an easy way to slice a model into sections (in my case 50 or so) and export the sections as 2d dxf files?
Thanks.
Hi mac1
That's exactly what I want.
How would I use the rotate tool for this? I assume that your suggesting I rotate the top arch somehow.
I will play with Fredo's plugin. Any tips you can offer would help.
Thanks.
Good evening all
I do a lot of work with window arches and would like to figure out how to do it quickly.
I can use the arc tool to get my inside shape, say 48 inches across and 6 inch bulge. Next I want another shape a given distance away from the first (a la offset) but I need the new arch to continue to the plane of the first one.
In the attached model, the arch needs to go to at least the vertical lines that are drawn. The verticals are the same distance from the ends of the first arch as the offset dimension.
Ideally it'd create the closed shape comprised of the inner and outer arcs and the horizontal and vertical lines.
Any ideas if these is an existing plugin that will do this?
The 69 Chargers don't have a frame, just a few anchor points on the underside of the body. Here is a pic from the rear that shows the front rear spring mounts and the rear torsion bar mounts.
Hope it helps.
http://www.mopardealer.com/_borders/petty_1972_charger_underside_3.jpg
Hi All
Has anyone modeled (or know how to model) panels like this:
http://www.winwood-products.com/eng/timber-products/sculptured-panels/
Dropout
@pbacot said:
I gather you are using 8Pro and not 7.1 as per your profile?
v8, not pro. I'll change the profile.
Hi All
I am trying to slice up a model to cut on my CNC. Apparently the part is not a manifold solid. What is a manifold solid, and why isn't my model one? And, how do I make it one?
Thanks in advance.
@ledisnomad said:
I'm a bit new to woodworking, at least of the cabinet variety. I was hoping I could get a little help on a cabinet I'd like to build myself. Attached is the my first idea for this. A few things to note.
- This is not the right dimensions. I roughed it out intuitively. Particularly the length and the height of each shelf can and probably will change.
I would make them adjustable
- 2/3rds of it will open to both sides, kitchen and dining room; the 1/3rd next to the stove will open only into the dining room.
- This will probably be a plywood box with poplar face frame, painted white, so I'm not super concerned about using fasteners. Tips for getting a very smooth, even finish would be appreciated.
Plywood is tough to finish smooth. Look for a product (Ultracore where I am) that has a plywood core and a thin skin of MDF on the faces.
- I don't love the vertical braces I've put under the shelves, so I'm open to suggestions to stabilize the long shelves.
You could make 3 boxes side by side.
- I don't love the way the end grain of the frame will be exposed at the narrow end. Suggestions to finish this end differently?
Put a panel on the end that matches the doors and overlaps the end of the frame.
- How should I fasten this whole thing to the floor? It will be located where I removed a wall, so currently the subfloor is exposed in that area.
Build a base and attach it first. Mount the cabinet on top of that.
- How should I fasten the counter top to the top? I will be making my own concrete counter top, so I could potentially cast-in fasteners, but is that necessary? Would construction adhesive be enough? How are stone counter tops usually fastened?
I would have said silicone, but my granite guy uses an epoxy that sets up in 20 minutes.
- What kind of doors should I use? I'm tight on space, so the less they intrude the better. I was thinking double doors for each opening, but that's a lot of doors. If I attempted sliders, does anybody have good details for that?
What ever you do, I wouldn't want doors that open in front of the stove.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
I just did something similar. Export as an STL. Import into ArtCAM and run. Easy.
@unknownuser said:
@solo said:
Regurgitate your versus somewhere else, the adults are talking now.
Hello, adults!
To be “born again” is not enough tu believe in God, but you have tu REPENT, with sincere sorrow for past, and with grateful devotion for the future...!
Define repent.
@solo said:
Funny thing is if he was around today the exact folk that worship him would hate his social liberal ways and he'd be dismissed and persecuted...oh wait he was back then also.....hmmmm.
A point that most believers tend to miss.
When you critique the current North American view of Christianity you are critiquing a caricature of what following Christ really means.