why fun ? I need these option a lot, I would pay that!

It could be a firewall setting...on one of my PC's, I had to turn off the firewall to download something thru the component browser.

Bertier, Is it freezing when you ask it to create the layout images? It doesn't surprise me if that's the case. That's a lot of groups for the plugin to calculate through to figure out how to lay them out on a bunch of narrow boards. It may be that you've exceeded the number of boards the plugin is capable of calculating, too. Since you haven't added one of the "Sheet Material" words to the group name, the plugin is trying to do the layout based on the groups being made from solid wood. Is that what you are intending? Or should they be made of sheet goods?

Thanks, all. Dave R's method has the advantage of being quick and requiring less cleanup at the end. dh

Thanks Dermot. I'll look into it. I don't do enough with Blum hardware to make it worth paying for an application to specify their hardware. The Excel-based thing they have for the glides is enough for me usually.

"may not be very practical" that what all woodworkers have said to me. I'll retouch it for sure. Thanks.

@caddict said: hi woodworkers i have a friend who is a very skilled pro furniture maker/general woodworker. he is keen to start modeling for design purposes and also for presentation to clients so i have offered to get him started with SU which i know pretty well. then it occurs to me to ask whether SU is good ("the best") for this type of work, or if there is some more specific app out there? i'm pretty sure it's a dumb question, especially to ask here Hi, thanks for your given information, please let me know his contact details so that I can talk with him. I need to design some furniture for my open living space. I'm waiting for your earlier response... Thanks in advance!

The above attached designs are good and I think I can also give a try but till then I don't have any suggestion here to give you. I am also very new to this forum and I think slowly-slowly I'll learn how to do things. "Going High"

I quote Dave's advice and I'd also add that it would be better to add doublers glued to sides and kickers to give more strength to the piece. As for using Kreg pocket holes, I wouldn't do that. Here in Italy they are much advertised but I really don't like giving to such a nice piece so many screws. Go for tenons or try biscuits. If you can't help but using pocket holes, use them where it's the only possible solution for you. Luca [image: agvw_BedsideTable-SketchUp_2011-01-02_17-57-10.jpg]

Thanks!

Yes. That's what I remembered. That's why it doesn't work for my needs. Still it is good for what it is intended for.

I consider the Erase tool a great tool to speed up erasing, even if sometimes my finger is faster than my brain and automatically goes on the del key rather than on the "E".

How practical is this? With metaboxes You have fixed sizes and You can build models with all of them and resize with FredoStretch as needed- they change only width. I prefer to put all the production data at the panel level and not to bother building cabinets as a DC components - to much hassle. For kitchen cabinets You usually change only the width - height and depth are constant. And this is easily achievable with FredoStretch. And using the hardware this way only adds complexity to the model and to the whole building process - the clients are more concern about the overall look, price and they want the price to be calculated in no time. In the shop a good selection of drilling jigs will do the rest. You can reduce the sizes of the textures and use only one for the panels and the edges - just apply them at the surface level and rotate and resize as needed - this I learned from Dave R - thanks, Dave!

Seems there is a new version for the SU8 - http://www.premiumwanadoo.com/technaulogis/exemple_5.php

Bob, So your file shows a frame (without a back). Do you want the molding to be a separate component from the frame? I assume so. To get Follow Me to work with a profile outside the frame component, you'll also need a path that is outside the frame component. The simple way to do this is to draw a rectangle to fit inside the frame. Just click on diagonally opposite corners with the Rectangle tool. I would delete the face of the rectangle because it isn't needed. Draw the Molding profile on the inside of the frame. Put it along one of the sides, maybe at the midpoint. You can run Follow Me two different ways, I prefer to select the path first, then get the tool and click on the profile. If it makes it easier, hide the frame component before you start selecting the edges of the rectangle for the path.

Hi Dave, I'll have to try that. In the meantime I had figured out that if I make the mortise on the "flat" side, and then create a surface on the inside and push it all the way out on the back, I could then draw lines around it where it intersected with the leg, delete the protruding piece, erase the lines, and then delete the surface left on the back leg... But you also make a good point about the downward forces on the legs and that I probably don't need to angle them at all. Although this has been a good learning experience Thanks for all the help, Rob

I have been working on other things but finally had a few minutes on Sunday to do a little more on this Bombé chest. Sides, drawer fronts and drawer divider rails are drawn. The rails are even dovetailed into the sides properly. They are difficult to see in the image, though. [image: 5133746693_48a8c55a09_z.jpg]

Hey thats cool Dave!!!

Thanks, Dave. Those are great.

Got it! I must learn to read CAREFULLY. You said select the end and move. I didn't know you could do that. I was trying to select the end of the component and that obviously won't work. You folks (all of you) are very helpful. I learned a lot today. Thanks. DaveS