Bedside Table
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I plan on building this table from the web site http://www.srww.com/sketchup-furniture-plans.htm and made a little animation using sections. Just thought I would share. The video and SU file can be found here.http://www.screencast.com/t/tgcKaNHZ9SX. Notice in the drawing I have used pocket holes instead of traditional joinery but I have been advised that this may not be the best option in this case. Any other advise would be appreciated cause I am but a newborn to woodworking!
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Interesting video.
I wouldn't use pocket screws for assembly although the folks at Kreg would probably like it if you did. My preference would be to use traditional mortise and tenon joinery or loose tenons if you prefer. More than one tenon in the apron to leg joints. I would use buttons for attaching the top or see below. If you use screws everywhere you show, the piece will destroy itself in time due to the screws trying to restrain seasonal movement of the wood.
Your model is built in kind of a strange way. Why? You could reduce the file size if you'd use only one version of each material. There's no need for both vertical and horizontal versions.
As to the design, I realize you drew it to the Joe's plan but I think the top front rail is a bit heavy for this little table. I would be inclined to make it 3/4" thick and make the drawer deeper. This would allow the kickers to be flush with the top of the rail and aprons. You could then attach the top through the kickers. Use three screws in each kicker and elongate the holes toward the front and rear to allow for seasonal movement.
Show us pictures of the table as you are building it and when it is finished.
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@unknownuser said:
Your model is built in kind of a strange way. Why? You could reduce the file size if you'd use only one version of each material. There's no need for both vertical and horizontal versions.
I think that was done to show the wood grain better.
@unknownuser said:
As to the design, I realize you drew it to the Joe's plan but I think the top front rail is a bit heavy for this little table. I would be inclined to make it 3/4" thick and make the drawer deeper. This would allow the kickers to be flush with the top of the rail and aprons. You could then attach the top through the kickers. Use three screws in each kicker and elongate the holes toward the front and rear to allow for seasonal movement.
I will take your advise to heart and may try it that way and for the pocket holes. I understand about seasonal changes but don't understand that the movement would be that much. I blame that on my experience in woodworking. Thanks for your help and suggestions.
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Kurt,
You can show the grain properly with only one version of a material. No need for both vertical and horizontal versions.
Here is is with only one version of each material.
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I quote Dave's advice and I'd also add that it would be better to add doublers glued to sides and kickers to give more strength to the piece. As for using Kreg pocket holes, I wouldn't do that. Here in Italy they are much advertised but I really don't like giving to such a nice piece so many screws. Go for tenons or try biscuits. If you can't help but using pocket holes, use them where it's the only possible solution for you.
Luca
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