@tuna1957 said:

garydorn, that's the JPP toolbar in the upper right corner of Box's giff. You can see him select right before the pull.

<snip >thumb:

My question/observation is that the surface was separated and then "pushed" to create a second skin, which thus gave the objects' surface a thickness. I gather that was the intent.
An interesting process applied to single box shape.

@box said:

Here's an example of how to make a very quick printable box.
There's not much point me giving you the incredibly complex proxy.

So you used joint push pull to create (skins) thickness to the object?

@cotty said:

It's Spanish and I don't see the images too.

images changed to uploads rather than linked

I found this subdivision tips
http://blog.whiteblaizer.com/2009/03/subdivision-tips-hard-surface-modelling-iv/

not sure of the language - might be Italian.

here is the index page
http://blog.whiteblaizer.com/tutorials/

Hope it helps.

I have a set of technical drawing for the seat frame and some photos, so I had a go at modelling up frame and seat pan.

@thomthom said:

@garydorn said:

5. save during progress often - 3 times I got bugspats, when I didn't save in SubD view, then when I go back to base geometry - BAM - got me!

Oh - that's disconcerting! Are you able to reproduce? Btw, can you make sure you submit the BugSplats? Please include some info in the BugSplat message so I can look it up. Then let me know after you submitted them - and let me know what version of SU you use and what OS.

Hmm, I wondered about that when it happened - i.e. sending you the bugsplat. Sure if it happens again I can do.

@garydorn said:

Howdy
Please excuse my questions if its not suitable here.

I've modelled up an AC aceca body - using SU 6 - native tools only , following CaljuCotcas how to model in a car in 3D using blueprints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgrix3m1l9k

blueprint is from a 3Warehouse model called Aceca ( no model just blueprints.)

Is SubD something that could be used to smooth out and simplify the surface better than what I've modelled so far. - some of my surfaces are still too dimply.

Thanks - any advice appreciated.

Probably NOT the best example, but I have managed to SubD the Aceca. It still needs a bit of work to get the bonnet the right shape. Still its better than previous posting.

I divided the body in sections and adjusted each section separate. i.e. bonnet, front valance , front fender, rear fender boot, roof.
somethings I've noticed

1. Quad lines/loops need to be equal number when joining adjacent Groups to look even.

2. loops look best when they align in a reasonably straight line and evenly spaced.

3. remember to UnSubD when want to adjust something!!! i.e. work on base geometry

4. turn off hidden line prior to SubD otherwise it may go into circular mode.

5. save during progress often - 3 times I got bugspats, when I didn't save in SubD view, then when I go back to base geometry - BAM - got me!

6. I ended up using TomThoms solid inspector2 tool ( as per his suggestion) quite a bit to find out where I was having poor geometry that prevented SubD from working.

I'm not very good at setting up the base model so that Quads face tools can used - most of this is simply line tool and moving vector points.

This is a pretty groovy plugin.

This is on SketchUP Make 2016 on 2009 iMac with 12 GB RAM Mac Os 10.11.3
chow

PS my process was;

1. remove all surfaces so just wire frame was left - adjust wire frame to suit.
2. select wireframe and run Quad Face tools > convert> wireframe to Quads.
3. select QF mesh - run Tools>solid Inspector 2 - check surfaces - adjust as necessary - it has good guide notes.
4. select mesh - run subD
5. if SubD has error message ( more then 2 faces to an edge)- redo steps 2, 3 + 4 until it works.

Looking closer at these wooden bucks , and you can see the 'Quads" all over the place!

For reference , there a number of photos of wooden bucks there were supposedly originally used to hammer out aluminium skins for these bodies.

credit to original photographers.
https://www.facebook.com/TeamAC/photos_stream

@thomthom said:

[attachment=3:2l5lnglv]<!-- ia3 -->FrontDoor.png<!-- ia3 -->[/attachment:2l5lnglv]

I'll bring home some tracing paper today and sketch out where I think the control loops will go.

I've had a go at the mesh for the door indents, following something I saw last night.
see Tileable Triangle Inset - http://imgur.com/a/dEWXP

The indent on the door panel appears to be raised above the door panel itself slightly.

Here is my try - following the above method.
This is with SU16 Make.

SU file ; SubD test

I reckon a Banks Dory would by a nice one to model.

Just a moment...

(www.mcssl.com)

wow

I've downloaded your file posted on the SubD chat.http://sketchucation.com/forums/download/file.php?id=137307

I am curious,
for the front wheel to fender transition you carried the wheel flare loop all the way across under the front to the other wheel.
is that a deliberate mesh strategy.

The rear hip line has a nice flow.

@ely862me said:

This one was simple because I didn't really started it from scratch, I just retouched the model garydorn shared in his topic, http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=333%26amp;t=64251 .
As (almost) always, I start with wheel arches(12 segments circle), then hood and top and easily connect these. In an hour you have a body.

an hour!

shite, I've worked on this for atleast 12 hrs -

this recent article by Rayn or Andy pretty much says where I am at - "embrassing the Suck

"Some people just seem to be born lucky.
They have the skill, the strength, and the ability to do with all, apparently without working too hard. The rest of us start at zero, and learning to do anything very well means spending a lot of time being mediocre."

full article here

https://gmb.io/your-missing-link/?utm_campaign=16%2F02%2F22+-+Missing+Link+%28jnGufh%29%26amp;utm_medium=email%26amp;_ke=Z2Rvcm5AbWUuY29t%26amp;utm_source=Newsletters+%28Active%29

thanks for uploading the file - gives me something to study

@ely862me said:

Garydorn's cobra retouched .
[attachment=0:2fxodc5p]<!-- ia0 -->289 SU 6 body V3-1.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment:2fxodc5p]

Wow - what an improvement -

was that done by only subD tools , or did you adjust the mesh first manually.

I like the resolution to the front grill - light transition , rear light transition.

I've still got to get the body sides adjusted , as there is quite a curve down the sides.
Also the cockpit shoulder is still not right ( looks like water will run into the armpit/ shoulder , instead of down the door.

Thanks dood

Here is the SU files - saved as SU6 from SU 13 trial version

Mos tof the modelling has been done in SU 6 - with some touch ups/adjustments in SU 13

sketchUp 6 file of 260/289 body WIR

After doing some more online reading of quads and subs , I've reduced the number of mesh on bonnet and boot lid, and then opening up my trial version of SU 2013 and downloading artisan, contour maker , slicer and Topo shaper, I tried each to see what happened.

Apart from the wheel archs - which have been smoothed too much, and the centre line of hood being not flat enough, Artisans version its getting pretty close.

Slicer with y and Z set to 150mm created some profiles. For some reason X said nothing to create!

Contour maker set at 50mm greeting an interesting shape

Topo shaper I guess is for terrains - although if you want to have a car cover - its may well be the tool to do the job!

Just because I can - I've exported the SU model to DWG - edges, faces geometry.

Then I imported into Boa - an Architecture solids modeller that only uses a 6 sided block. (every face has 4 edges ) http://boa-research.fr

In Boa I then started to insert a 3mm thick solid block over the mesh. Because the 4 corners a not in a flat plane the last point shows up how far it is out.

Boa can also do a 3 edge face, by automatically dividing the face into 3 equal blocks - so I gave that a try also.

Eventually Im interested to see how the Quad faces align with each when comparing my hand/eye construction with the Quadface and SubD tools.

Ive now divided and grouped the various sections - nose, hood, fender, side, rear, and smoothed each surface,
also added some wire wheels from 3D warehouse .

junction of front hose/hood light still sorting out.

I've re-jigged the wire frame such that follows more closely the Quads format - but still have some 3 sided and 5 side edges to sort out.

![wire frame as "quads"](/uploads/imported_attachments/X6DP_wireframe.png "wire frame as "quads"")

@ntxdave said:

I downloaded the model and, to me, it represents the real key for those of us trying to learn quad modeling. You need to be able to visualize what you are drawing in basic quad configuration. I think your other drawing of a person where you show the steps from just boxes to the eventual shape of the person are the real keys. You can learn to use the tools but if you cannot "see" where you are going, you are going to struggle immensely.

Thanks for sharing this.

I'd agree with you on this, begin able to see where the lines ought to go is a significant ability that will enable the simplest number of quads to produce the desired result.
In my efforts so far, I seem to be modelling the full complexity of the shape, adjusting the vertexes, then retracing over with less lines, and deleting the now redundant lines/quads.

I also wandering whether zorro might be a way of generating some the grid lines?