A key question is whether you are finished drawing one end and just need symmetry at the other end, or if you intend to continue editing the first end and expect the other end to mirror it. For the former, you can simply select the relevant Edges and Faces at the first end, move a copy to the other end, flip it, and drop it in place. Often you will need to clean up a stray Edge or two or repair a Face if you do it that way, but it is fast and easy. For the latter, though, you need to do something like Dave describes because you need both ends to be instances of the same ComponentDefinition, just flipped. But you will have to explode the board and the ends and then recreate the board as a single component when you are done else you will get the kinds of cut list issues he describes. Steve

I think the basic turnings are easy to model with SketchUp's Follow Me Tool. The helical portion of the turning can be generated with the help of a plug-in. But the carving would be difficult, if not impossible, to model. dh

haha THANKS!

Yeah that might be next on my list!

JQL, I'm afraid I don't follow you. Are you referring to the first step, where I say to erase the waste after doing the Intersect Faces command? Best, dh

nice!

Dave: Gotta get a piano first, then learn to play it. Pilou: Merci beaucoup for the video. Best, dh

Very attractive design. I especially like the slats between the legs. If it's a work in progress, how about trying an alternative style for the legs: 3" or 4" square instead of the curved Limbert-style legs? Best, dh

Thanks, gentlemen. As for the overlay doors, that's what my client wants. My client is the cabinetmaker and his client gets the finished product. I've been trying to talk him into inset doors for years but he won't go for it. I can kind of understand, though. The doors are sourced commercially--he can but them for less than he can make them--and going with overlay doors means he can fudge the positioning more easily if they aren't exactly the right size.

I'm glad it was and you're quite welcome.

Thank you very much, sir.

Thanks. That looks good. I know I can put something in the background to reflect in the glass. I was working on keeping the setup dead simple for this one so I just moved one light until I got a reflection. That's good enough for me.

I'd sure hate to step into an open drawer on my way down them!

I PM-ed a file

But of course.

Scott, Many, many thanks for the follow up. And may your holiday be glitch-free. Best, dh

It's not the table. It's the rude people who didn't move the chairs back before they left.

Since you ask for design advice, some design questions: You sure you want the bottom shelf to be transparent? And while I'm asking, why are any of the shelves clear? If they are covered with candy, you won't see through anyway, and if they aren't, then weight is not so much of an issue. 60" is pretty wide for unsupported shelves, generally they are no more than 36" in commercial units. And 24" is pretty deep for candy (candy boxes are around 12" deep, if memory serves, and individual bars would just get lost with the depth). Sometimes displays like this are used to showcase merchandise in front; work, sell or display on top; and have more shelves behind a false back for storage. If you make all edges stiff, for light loads you shouldn't need to brace the middle of the shelf. It is usually prettier and easier to roll or fold the front of the shelf than to fabricate a box. Experiment first, 60" is untested territory. Sides and backs can be grooved to hold the shelf if you don't like the look of cleats. A slender molding wrapping the side and back edges of the shelf would allow you to use shelf standards without getting into plastic fabrication, and could be very pretty.

@tmwoodcrafters said: Hi, I think it would be great if you posted them. Thanks! When I posted this, I wanted to see if there was any interest. I probably need to clean up the models a bit before posting them to the 3D Warehouse. I don't have time at the moment to do so, but will do when I have a chance. In the meantime here are a couple of them as jpeg's. [image: y2Rk_Hettich_BlueMax.jpg] [image: E0cS_Cascadei_KS-3.jpg]

@dave r said: No. I haven't. I did look at the website for the optimization program but since I have almost no need of that sort of application, I didn't download it. I get more than enough info out of the CutList and Layout plugin to satisfy my needs. I agree! One of the most important aspects of cutting out stock for fine work is deciding how to work around defects in the wood, such as checks, knots, stains, and so on. No automated layout program will ever do that for you! It does no good to save on wood from an optimized layout if a loose knot ends up right in the middle of a drawer front. Steve