Why can't I do this. I've done lots of this before. It must be getting late.
All I want to do is cut this board but it just make it thicker or completely disappears
I draw a line where I need the cut and then use the push pull tool to remove it, but it won't do it. How do I do it?
@dave r said:
As Kris says, Plexiglas is pretty easy to work. You can cement pieces together with the right glue. But it is soft and will scratch quite easily so it won't take long for it to start looking ugly.
Tempered glass may be expensive but it would be more durable than the Plexiglas and it would be less expensive than a trip to the ER if a piece of regular glass broke and did someone harm.
Yep, I'm thinking that the client would have to clean the Plexglass quite often with there being food sat on them.
I think the box idea is the best so far otherwise the center will sag too much.
@dave r said:
That's going to be a challenge without any center supports. How about making Plexiglas boxes that are open on the bottom. This would give the effect of the shelves being much thicker than the Plexiglass itself. Maybe you could get by with a rib down the length of the center, too?
[attachment=0:15sdsh6e]<!-- ia0 -->plex.png<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment:15sdsh6e]
If the shelves are going to be covered in merchandise, whatever you do to support the shelves won't really be visible anyway.
You might also consider using tempered glass instead. It would be stiffer and would support the weight of the stock without sagging. Glass would be less susceptible to scratching, too.
Would the pexiglass boxes be easy to make?
I'm going towards using Shelf standards on the end http://www.rockler.com/brass-shelf-standards-select-length.
The tempered glass is a good idea.
I dont think it is going to be any good putting 4 shelves because like you say it aint going to be seen if its too packed.
I need design/advice/ideas on a display counter. It will display candy and chocolate bars. There are 3 shelves maybe 4. The shelves are plexiglass. What is the best way to hold up the plexiglass? The client wants it open with no supports in the center.
Wow I just changed these dimensions to 8' and it did it no more tiling.
@dave r said:
What size did you make it when you imported it?
I downloaded the mdf image and then in sketchup I clicked Materials-Create Material- Browse for Image Material File- Opened it and clicked okay. I just noticed that there is a size box saying 12" wide by 11 47/64 high, should I have changed these measurements?
I drew a cabinet and made everything (sides, top etc) into its own components. I wanted to add an MDF texture to a side panel but it didn't look right, it was in small tiled squares. So I decided that I would scale the texture, but I have no option when I do a right click on it.
I exploded the component and then I got the right click to edit the texture.
What is the proper way to do this. Add texture before making it a component or make component explode add texture then remake it into a component?
I have a display cabinet to make, the front and shelves are plexiglass, how do I go about making plexiglass?
@mrossk said:
Due to costs and time restraints the holes didn't make it to the actual job, but it turned out nice
I was just gonna ask about the holes!
Yeah, it would have meant making a jig for the router then cut the holes out, round off the holes and then sanded them. Plywood is a pain in the butt to sand, I wish I had a router bit that could sand and cut at the same time- that would be a great time saver.
@cotty said:
Another way: (multi) hole on solid, see this screencast.
That is fast and easy, installing now. Thank you.
From Sketchup to the real-deal.
Due to costs and time restraints the holes didn't make it to the actual job, but it turned out nice
@box said:
Wheelchair ramp to nowhere, a ramp for paraplegic lemmings perhaps.
Yep you go up the ramp as fast as you can and straight into a swimming pool 
I was thinking about modeling the house from Google street view and king of lowering its opacity so that the ramp stood out more than the house but like Dave says you can go too far with the drawing especially when you don't get the job.
@dave r said:
I was just joking about the step at the top down to the ground.
Oh I see
Yep I see what you mean, make a sketch and someone else comes along and says I can do it for 10% cheaper- job gone.
@dave r said:
I was referring to the step down at the top.
The little step near the wheelchair is just for the transition onto the concrete pad.
I know some codes allow for them to be used. The wheelchair ramp should be on concrete that is down below 42 inch because that is where the frost level cannot force the concrete upwards.
Wow 8 minutes I wish I was so fast. I like the clay render idea. I always think if I go to the trouble of making a drawing that the customer can use it to get estimates from other contractors. I think even with a copyright notice won't change things.
@dave r said:
That step at the top might be an inch or two taller than allowed by code.
Which step are you referring to?
I didn't get the job, I guess I wasn't fast enough at submitting my sketchup images with the price to the customer.
She went with a different guy. He is using those concrete piers to hold the posts up and they are just laid flat on the ground with 4 x 4's stuck in them. I think the whole thing will just sink into the ground.
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/7604655.JPG
Thanks, I'll take a look at your tutorial. Anyhow I did get the kids stair job, I'm just about to start on it. I believe the Sketchup images really helped to get the job. I just need to get better and faster with Sketchup to be able to submit the prices quicker.
@dave r said:
Nice work, Mike. Now we'll work on texturing so you don't have those cross-grained posts which wouldn't be very strong.
That step at the top might be an inch or two taller than allowed by code.
Yeah, I tested several textures and some from Kerkythea but that was the best I could come up with. I saw a deck and it was textured really good.
Heres mine: Nancy with a basketball, in scene 1 the ball looks normal. In scene 2 you can clearly see how the ball is flat and distorted by using the scale tool and how long the anamorphic images have to be to get the desired effect.
