Thank you 👍

@mikedd said:

Thats works Thank you

The 'Hide' does make planes invisible one by one.
Also when switching between scenes, hide unfortunately isn't consistantly saved like other features/options/properties when the hidden parts (here = section plane) are inside (nested) grouped environment. So you may still have to toggle the icon off. This toggles all planes off and this setting can be saved per scene. See the 'Scene Manager'.

@mikedd said:

@pbacot said:

You can edit an arc's segment in the "Entity info" window BEFORE you extrude it.

In the entity window it says 12 segments but it won't allow me to change this number?

It will if you change it BEFORE you extrude the profile.

@tig said:

I can now see the 'angle' is the now-cut-slab viewed obliquely.
So PushPull should work, provided that you have drawn real lines on the face within the component/group so as to divide it into parts before doing the 'push'...
Guides will never split a face.
Lines drawn on the outside of a container [group/component] will never split a face within.
Either redraw the lines within the container, or select the lines that are in the wrong context, Edit>Cut then edit the container and Edit>PasteInPlace - now these newly added lines should split up the face they land on inside the container - it's now ready to PushPull........... 😕
We seem to be making heavy weather of what turns out to be a simple task 😒

Thank you Tig.

Since you ask for design advice, some design questions: You sure you want the bottom shelf to be transparent? And while I'm asking, why are any of the shelves clear? If they are covered with candy, you won't see through anyway, and if they aren't, then weight is not so much of an issue.

60" is pretty wide for unsupported shelves, generally they are no more than 36" in commercial units. And 24" is pretty deep for candy (candy boxes are around 12" deep, if memory serves, and individual bars would just get lost with the depth). Sometimes displays like this are used to showcase merchandise in front; work, sell or display on top; and have more shelves behind a false back for storage.

If you make all edges stiff, for light loads you shouldn't need to brace the middle of the shelf. It is usually prettier and easier to roll or fold the front of the shelf than to fabricate a box. Experiment first, 60" is untested territory.

Sides and backs can be grooved to hold the shelf if you don't like the look of cleats. A slender molding wrapping the side and back edges of the shelf would allow you to use shelf standards without getting into plastic fabrication, and could be very pretty.

It looks to me as if the texture ought to be about 24" square but since it's not seamless and there's little texture to it anyway, you could just use it at any size that prevents it from tiling. Or, I'd just use a flat color to match and not bother with that texture. It seems to me that it would just add file size with little benefit.

The other images there are neat if you need little tiny patches of wood but they'd be awful for most projects.

Thank you very much I did it.

Actually, for something like your ramp I might have modeled a bit of the house for context. No textures and probably a different line style for those edges but that would help to make the size of the ramp understandable.

Oh well, on to the next project for you now.

@mrossk said:

Due to costs and time restraints the holes didn't make it to the actual job, but it turned out nice
I was just gonna ask about the holes!

Yeah, it would have meant making a jig for the router then cut the holes out, round off the holes and then sanded them. Plywood is a pain in the butt to sand, I wish I had a router bit that could sand and cut at the same time- that would be a great time saver.