Just saw this in an ad flier. Great idea, but should have less a pedestrian look than this RTA thing.
Ideas?
Mission style preferred, but that's just me.
That space under, when you lift it up, is where the laptop can be residing. Good lift hardware is the key for this one.
Here is a nice hardwood mallet you can make. It is up on the 3D Whse.
Parts all mostly machined for a prototype. Done in eastern white pine. Through square holes are not easy. Very precise mark-out and scary sharp chisels required. May make router jig for doing it next time, then square corners with chisel and file.
Door rail tenons to be notched, top hanger rail needs to be shaped with bandsaw and cleaned up. Used full-size template print plug-in.
Am hoping it goes a little better in hardwood.
Put the upper treads in yesterday and today. Starting out, it was taking me almost two hours per, but one per by tread #13. Thanks to Sketchup for helping me map this out and get it built. The carriages (seen in xray) were pattern-cut from full sized templates printed to paper and glued to the LSL stock. I exported each part to Chief Architect, and printed from there.
Balustrade next.
It will be painted, except for the inside back, maybe the knob, and the pegs. Maple makes a good painted surface, and the local supply of "brown" maple (that not selected as clear all-sapwood) is plentiful and inexpensive.
The little pegs will be something dark, maybe walnut. Same for the knob. I've some nice old-growth heart pine pieces for making the grooved back, and it will be clearcoated.
The inside depth is 3-1/2", which is 1/8" deeper than the Robern meds cab I have in the bathroom down the hall. I thought it was sufficient.
A quick first shot at sizing and design. Now for some subtle tweaking, then the joinery.
The through-holes look like they need to be a little larger. Other things need work.
I'm away from home and without my favorite woodworking tool, Sketchup.
But I'll be home soon, and will tackle this posthaste. I'm thinking of doing two different sizes, a mini and maxi, and will examine all the various choices in joinery, going for best practice, and foolproof machinery setups.
I've enough paint grade clear maple and heart birch for all the exposed parts, and for the v-joint inside back, there's some choice antique heart pine that will be clearcoated, and not painted like the rest.
Some chunks of qs white oak will be used for the knobs, with a stepped square shank, set through the door stile and wedged.
Some nice brass hinges with finials (from Whitechapel) should be a nice touch.
That's OK, Dave. I understand.
I'm sure I can get real close on my own. Might be nice to try a two-stage milk paint finish, with a little discreet rub-offs and nicks and dents.
There is a new bathroom in a summer-house in need of this.
Pls put in 3D Warehouse and tell us keyword. Thks.
Follow me won't do it. Is there a plug in that will work better?
Ethan Allen used to offer this when they had a line of American Classics or whatever they called it about a dozen years ago. I looked at one in a showroom and then saw its overall L x W x H in the catalog, then went home and modeled it in 3D using, of all things, a package by Intergraph called Solid Edge.
I actually blanked out the parts but never went beyond that in my shop. So I have measured my parts and done the thing in SU. Here is a pic.
With no further work on the model, hey, I know it could be better, with joinery, etc., but what the heck, I just put it up on the Warehouse. Mission Curio Cabinet. Enjoy.
I already have the hardware and electricals for it, so I'll stick with the Amerock PK 7687M DAE hinges I have, plus the two 2-1/8" 10W halogen low voltage puck lights I have for the inside lighting. I want to try the switch, the kind that you run a lead wire to a hinge, so that all you do is touch the hinge to turn on the light, turn it off, and dim up or dim down.
Trying to get SU v.8 set up. First got my all time fave, Mirror, done successfully, but now cannot get Fredo6's round corner ruby to go.
In v.7 everything worked fine. But not in 8.
Here is what my ruby directory looks like.
I am finishing up a couple of Stickley design bow arm Morris chairs, and using the drawing for the chair from American Furniture Design ("AFD"), and looking at photos at the Stickley and AFD sites, modeled this variation of the Morris. You can find it at the 3D Warehouse website.
The curves and battered legs give it a more modern look than the Stickley design. The model is true scale, but contains no mortise and tenon detail. The Stickley version has short corbels under the arms at each leg, while the AFD design has none.
It is made, if you want to match the species used by both Stickley and AFD for their prototypes used for photography, in cherry and clear maple. Cherry legs, arms, and side spindles, with all else in the maple.
I show some views here, plus an x-ray view of the front leg showing use of Festool 10x50mm dominos, in lieu of mortises and tenons. I'll bet the dominos will be just as strong as doing it with tenons. The photo is from the AFD site.
Thankew veddy much. I was on nanny duty out west, a long spell of it, helping our daughter with some little ones while a new one was coming. That baby in my avatar is now a preschooler, with a younger brother and now a baby sister!
It is time to get some picnic tables built for the family members, and the legs will need patterns, as can be seen here. A number of different web sellers sell this somewhat generic table, so I did not think modeling it was in violation of any copyright. After all, look at all the Thomas Moser furniture in the Warehouse!
I will pop this table set into the Warehouse as well.
Am operating in SU7/free. Downloaded the ruby, and placed the file with the other rubys. See pic. As can be seen, its extension is .rbz.
It is not in my tools dropdown.
Help.
How about it? I want to send my SU V.7 file to someone who uses a Mac. Will their SU open it OK?
For a set of house plans I am finishing for a client, the staircase is to be included in details. I did the model of the stairs in SU, and have detailed the parts with dimensioned layout drawings for each. A look at the stairs, and a screencap from one of the drawings, is attached.
If you have done this for stairs, please show me your method and results, if you can. I am interested in simplifying this process however possible. Thanks.
