I orbited it be isometric and was going to use the Make Ortho View plugin. I have been reading Tim's posts about dimensioning; that is why I have been trying to use the x-ray view. Jerry

So it took me a year to answer, I never was known for speed. Cut the rings from a large steel pipe using a cut off saw. Cut the clips from sheet steel with a torch, clean up with a grinding wheel, and bend to shape with a vice and hammer.

Hi, this idea I've set a few months ago in the German forum. But had no great resonance. I would also like a group of interested at Frankfurt / Rhein-Main area. I can not imagine that I am the only user. This area is 2.2 million people on 2,500 km ² area. Karlheinz

I'll get you back Gaieus!! - there is a saying in Ireland - "its a long that that has no turning"!!!!

Worked great. Thanks

What is your precision set to? What template are you using? Is length snapping enabled? What format is selected?

I will try to explain with more detail. The board to have a mortise/tenon must first be a component. Rotate to a view where you can see the surface that will have the m/t. After selecting the tool the help text states select the component. Do this by mousing over the component and left mouse click. Next help text states select first edge parallel to mortise length. A typical m/t is longer than it is wide ( 2" x 1/4") so click one edge parallel to the longer m/t dim. Next help text states select second edge parallel to first edge. Click on that edge. Fill in the form with your dim. Edge1 to m/t length is the offset for the m/t from the first edge you selected. For a 1/4" mortise on a 3/4" board this would be .250 to center the mortise. The other edge to end for a 2" mortise on a 3" wide board would be .50 to center the mortise. I hope this helps Keith

@jean lemire said: Hi Dave, hi folks. You are rigth. The "Follow me" Tool first operation is to rotate any profile that is not perpendicular to the start of the path in such a way that it becomes perpendicular. the only problem is that it is not really a rotation but a projection. In this case of a circular groove, it will, indeed, becomes elliptical. In my example, I just drew a circle centered on the midpoint of the slanted side and then I erased the unwanted part to get a circular grove. A more refined method would be to carefully position this "cutting" circle to mimick, as well as possible, the positioning of a real life router bit. Another possibility would be to carefully position a cylinder on one side of the leg, then do an intersection and finally delete unwanted geometry. After that, a circular array can be made with the grooved face to obtain 5 more. This would work but is a lot of work. Just ideas. Hi Jean, I think I did it your way this evening (this SU can become addictive, I am learning). I made a tapered leg and then realigned the axes for each face before I drew a vertical bead up the side of the leg using the push/pull tool. It seems to have worked quite well. I had to do a little cleanup at the top of each leg, but that wasn't hard. Thank you (everyone) for your help. I shall be back!! Mel

A member "madhav" has shared a whole bunch of really nice wood materials here: http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=23499 He even zipped them together and bulk uploaded to rapidshare here: http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?p=209714#p209714

Yeah, I kept the joints simple. This was kind of a test project so I could try out a new pocket hole jig that my store started selling (I work at a hardware store). Plus, I knew I was going to have a very limited time to chop all the lumber for the product. So I tried to keep the amount of different lengths to a minimum. Btw, the pocket hole jig worked out great. They don't look like much, but those joints are actually pretty strong.

Glenn, I'll be happy to give you all the feedback you want. Maybe more than you want. This would certainly be a good project to get you through the entire process. Do you have questions about the construction methods? Types of joinery, etc.? Are you planning to make traditional drawers and use wood for runners and kickers? Dovetails for the drawers? False fronts? Dave

Medvegy, where did you come up with that? I've never seen a dovetail joint laid out that way. The traditional layout is to set the angles at somewhere between 1:6 and 1:9 (depending upon the hardness of the wood) and set the spacing so it is aesthetically pleasing. The width at the base of handcut dovetail pins are commonly (although not always) made to less than half the thickness of the stock. Dovetail joints cut by router bits are generally 8° although there are some bits at 7°, 9° and 10°. There are 14° dovetail bits which are usually used for sliding dovetails. Your drawing results in a dovetail with an angle of slope of 1:4 or approximately 14°.

Thanks Dave, nice card!

Keith, I'm glad that took care of it.

Thought I would post a few more pictures of my monster truck project. I used a book by Les Neufeld as inspiration and I adapted the plan from there. I created all of the parts in Sketchup in full 3D, and printed 2D views of parts to use as cutting and drilling patterns. The woods used are: Cherry for the cab and box of the truck. Bloodwood for the fenders and tailgate. Black walnut for the wheels and bush bumper, as well as the axle housings. Maple dowels for the bars on the bush bumper and the winch, as well as the rear bumper and driveshaft axles, as well as for the wheel axles. Aspen for the frame on which the truck body sits. [image: Dq4e_MonsterTrucknofinishnowheels.jpg] [image: E7E5_MonsterTruckwithfinishnowheels.jpg] [image: 2Brc_MonsterTruckFinished.jpg]

Maybe you need a little hair of the dog. Actually, a litre of water would probably help.

Ooops! I think I misunderstood your question. On the form the To distance is the distance from the first edge selected "to" the dado. The To Edge is either To, Center, or Over. To is the first or leading or nearest edge, Center means the dimension is to the center, and Over mean the farthest edge. Almost always, one would use the To edge. Selecting the To edge and a To Distance of 0 creates a rabbit. Sorry if this is confusing. It all makes sense to me, but probably nobody else.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. Maybe I'll do a couple more in this vain and see how they come out. Dan

@dave r said: Larry, did you check the OWWM site for a manual for that saw? Thanks Dave, I did a search of the site, but I think I will have to register and post my question. Larry

mics_54, the Router Boss will just tell the planes stories about how I only collect tools any more. I don't ever actually use them because I'm too busy with other things. Dear Bob, thank you for that link. More shiny stuff to covet. Dave