Posts made by SchreiberBike

What am I doing wrong here. I've got a component and I can't reverse just a few of its faces.

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Crescent Wrench 3.skp

@double espresso said:

When it all shakes down, since the watch is not his original design - John has probably contravened the patent and copyrights held by Seiko.
DE

I actually thought about that while I was doing it. As you say, it's a slippery slope. It's slippery and the edges are messy in part because those edges are defined by people (lawyers) who benefit from the edges being as confused as possible. If Seiko calls me, I'll let you all know.

Back to the original issue, I did send a more positive e-mail and got a nice one in return. When I get to it, I'll post his link on my blog with pictures and he'll return the favor. Everybody's happy. (Except perhaps Seiko.)

Thanks for all the feedback and the relevant discussion.

I know I don’t have any legal right to expect anything from things I post on the warehouse. I post things there because as a non-professional I want my work to be useful to as many people as possible. Based on my “portfolio” in the warehouse, I have received requests to do modeling. When it has come from fellow woodworkers, I have often done it as a favor. When it has come from others, the offered rate of pay has been so low that it’s not worth my time.

I probably don’t even have any right to be angry. But I do think less of other people when they are deceptive, and I do get angry when I see others taking credit for my work. I'm not asking for much, just courtesy.

@john.warburton said:

In the case of the watch, the site is Canadian (though I first thought it was asian from the parent company name), so I would imagine similar laws pertain.

I didn’t mean to leave clues for anyone to find it, but I think I figured out how you did.

@john.warburton said:

Seriously though, a polite approach to the guy may be all that is required, so try that first. Offer him a link in exchange from your own site if you have one. Links help improve web search rankings, so you'd both benefit.

That’s an excellent idea and as many said above, I should tone down my letter and I should ask for it as a favor since I have no legal rights.

And you guys are right about the warehouse. It's a vast wasteland, but the concept is good, and there are spots of gold.

@frederik said:

. . .I'm slightly confused here...
. . .

I can see why you are confused. I wrote that poorly. On a web forum, I found some pictures which showed the poster's rendering skills. In that posting, he wrote "The first 2 images were modeled by SchreiberBike." I appreciated that.

Because of that, I'm sure it is my model.

Then I clicked on his web site and saw the renders using my model as the most prominent items on his home page. There is no credit given on his web site.

As a non-professional, this is not really a big deal, and he has every legal right to do what he wants with my model, but it made me mad anyway. I just want to do something. And, maybe he'll give me some copies of the rendering for my portfolio.

I know I give up all rights to a model when I put it in Google's 3D Warehouse, but I was surprised that one of my models is the first thing you see on somebody else's web site. The website is for a guy who does architectural rendering.

Does this sound like an appropriate e-mail to send to the guy? It references a wrist watch I modeled <http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=91f32787b009cd002331b5d5dd1cf817>.

@unknownuser said:

NAME,

I found the renderings of my watch model at the XXXXXXXXXXXX Forum. They are very nicely done. Thank you for crediting me there. I was surprised to see the watch so prominently on your company's home page at: http://xxxxxxxxxxxx/ . Although I voluntarily gave up all rights when I posted the model in the 3D warehouse, it would be a professional courtesy to give credit for the models and to inform the original modeler when you use them.

If you have any other renderings of the model on file, I would love to see them, and would be happy to credit you any time I use them.

Thank you,
SchreiberBike

Very nice and I love the presentation too. The repeating background with the exception for the bracket foot detail is very good.

Is there really a piece along the front edge between the bracket feet? That looks odd because it hides some of the scroll work on the bracket feet.

I picked up this book at the library http://www.amazon.com/Woodshop-Kids-Jack-McKee/dp/1884894534/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1231434256&sr=1-1 and it's very good. It gave me some ideas for things to do with my eight year old daughter. One of the ideas I got was to cut up a bunch of scraps which she can use to assemble doll house furniture.

I like to have her in the shop with but there's little she can do much of the time.

I'm also hoping to make a set of "Builder Boards" for my nephews.

Granted, but responding to complaints of complexity, the new version of PhotoShop is so simple that it's basically the same thing as Paint.

I wish I didn't have to do the dishes.

Granted, but no exceptions are allowed and everyone receives your wishes for peace and prosperity.

I wish for an inexpensive source of thick leather for my workbench's vises (or perhaps for my vices).

I'm a hobbyist and I haven't got a table saw. I've been getting by with a home-brew guided rail system. If I were to buy a cabinet saw, I would be spending $2 - 3,000 to get a decent saw with a riving knife. At the point where I'm going to drop that kind of money, going up to $5,000 for a SawStop sounds pretty reasonable.

It seems reasonable to recognize that the table saw is the most dangerous tool in the shop. If I wait until I can drop $5,000 for a saw, it may never happen. I'm thinking that I will go in the direction Dik suggests above and get a high quality guided rail system which works with a circular saw and a router. That would largely replace a table saw, a miter saw and a router table.

I've always thought in terms of the table saw as the center piece for a shop, but I'm slowly moving away from that idea.

It is a very high quality saw regardless of it's safety features and in addition to the amazing brake, it has a riving knife. The riving knife probably prevents more problems, but the brake is a true finger/hand saver. I know a guy with only a thumb on one hand because of an incident with a table saw.

If I were in the market for a table saw, I would be hard pressed to choose another.

@titmas said:

even though i have a set of undersized plywood router bits i prefer to cut a 3/8" rabit and set it into a 3/8" dado. we have a dedicated TS set up with a 3/8" dado cutter and use it more often than full width dados or dowels to join ply to ply.

How do you rabbet the plywood edge. If I rout it from the top, it doesn't eliminate the inconsistency.

I have thought about hanging a thick slotting bit below a guide bearing and removing from the side opposite the router, but I worry about trapping the wood and getting kickback,

I've got all but the last two levels done. And I've slept a bit too.

Try this. It's fun

http://fantasticcontraption.com/

and time consuming.

I just got out the calipers and from one side to the other on a piece of "3/4" plywood, it measured 0.704 on one corner and 0.660 on the other. I don't know where it was made.

I've heard about the metric equivalents always being smaller before, but I'm not persuaded. I think it is more like calling a board which is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 a 2x4.

The highest quality ply I've used is imported from Finland, so I wouldn't make any statements about point of origin and quality.

It's easier to model from a good plan with cutlists, but I like to model from a rough plan, dimensioned views, just a picture, or just an idea. It seems to me to be more find it more fun/challenging to model interesting pieces instead of pieces which happen to have clear plans already.

Plywood in the US is sold as 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 inch etc. But in reality it is between a 16th and a 32nd smaller than that. In fact, recent plywood I have used varies a few hundredths from place to place on the same sheet.

How do you guys model plywood construction? Nominal size e.g. 3/4" or an unpredictable actual size of about 11/16". So far, I've been modeling with the nominal size and making adjustments in the shop, but I worry that is going to bite me at some point.

I was going to post a picture of an accident with American beer, but I thought posting a pic of a man who wet his pants would be in bad taste.

This is amazing stuff. You turn it out so fast too.

@solo said:

LOL, could be a great thread, I will start.

SU7 is taking so long because:

Out of sympathy with current users, they are doing all development work on a single core processor.

They are using old Mac's with a one button mouse and they can't figure out how to orbit.

They are spending all their time at Wassilla's new sports center because there's nothing good at the library.