Topics created by Sawduster

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Let's see if this helps explain it.

First, you are absolutely correct that the begining and end segments of the path need to be at 90° to each other for a 1/4 sector and for Follow Me to work correctly. Instead of adding line segments to your 90° arc, though try the following.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/5190512797_5e0876427d.jpg

In this image, I've added red lines over the line segments at 90° to each other. Notice these are half the length of the other line segments.

Instead of drawing an arc for the Follow Me profile, draw a circle and make sure you drag it out on axis. Then rotate the circle on its center by half the angle between vertices. In the case of a default 24-segment circle, that would be 7.5°. This will set sides parallel to the axis lines. Divide the circle into quarters or as I did eighths and discard all but one of those. Now you have your path for Follow Me set up correctly. The end segments are at 90° to each other and when you put two sectors together, they meet on a line rather than at a point. the other benefit of this is that when you hide seam lines, they are actually hidden. If the seam line occurs on the vertex of the circle, the edges won't hide nicely and softening then will do strange things to the appearance of the faces.

It takes longer to read this than do it.

I think that thing in the middle of the scrollwork is more a medallion than a knob. I think you would normally use the key to pull the door open. We have buffet that, although there's no ornamentation on the door, it has no knobs or pulls.

As to drawing the scrollwork, I think I would start drawing the perimeter and then use a method similar to the one that Marcus linked to. I would simplify it a great deal, though. By the time you get all the ornamentation drawn the model will be huge even by your standards. 😉 I expect the upper and lower scrollwork on that applique are the same just rotated 180° I would make a component of just one and use that.

You could have opened your SU7 (7.1) template in SU8 and then made it your default template for SU8.

I consider the Erase tool a great tool to speed up erasing, even if sometimes my finger is faster than my brain and automatically goes on the del key rather than on the "E".

Thanks, Tom, I may try that. I've not been using the import of dwgs very often lately. Got a bunch of furniture leg profiles from a place that manufactures legs and other mill work which I would import and use as patterns to extrude. I've been making models of antique furniture using photos of the originals and found I can usually trace out the shapes pretty close, so haven't the DWGs much.

Hey, Jerry. No one else has mentioned that they haven't been able to open it. Are you getting the error message when you open the zip file, or when opening the skp from there. I just tried it and opened the skp file from the zip file without even extracting, and it opened right up. It was done in SU8 and I understand some folks are staying away from that for now.

Thanks, Dave. Those are great.

I located the folder with the SP joints and such, opened the hinge in SketchUp and added a line going out in front and in back of the little blue "x". Went back and checked, and now my hinges have axles. Need to do the same with the servo and motor. Thanks.

Thanks! 👍

I was making it more complicated. Just applying a material to the components gets that info into Cut List. Had to create some sheet good materials into a personal materials folder and its now cookin with gas. 😍

Hi Tom, the only free raster-to-vector application I've used is called WinTopo Standard which seems to work pretty well. If the image you are starting with is colored (a photo) or very complex, it may be worth spending some time in an image editor adjusting contrast and otherwise simplifying the image before converting it to vector. Keep in mind that the conversion may not make perfectly smooth lines so you may still need to do some work in SketchUp to clean things up.

Dave

Thanks, Dave. I had thought that copy/rotate should do that and went back and fiddled with it, and finally figured it out.

It sounds like you got it figured out for what you needed. It would have been nice to see the model before you cleaned it up so we could nail down the problem.

Nice model BTW! 👍

I see. It's different from the materials I've seen but I suppose it would be faster.

This is the way I learned to do them.

http://www-tc.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/howto/images/miterdot.jpg

http://chestofbooks.com/architecture/Building-Construction-V2/images/Joints-Part-6-351.jpg

Very nice desk. I like it!

Cheers jerry, thats a very thorough explanation/imvestigation.

Yeah, that is likely the case. I just went and measured the offset of the arc in the SKP and it is around 2". If I remember correctly, the bending forms I made for the rails had a 2 inch offset, but I got some spring back when I took them out of the forms. Another difference is that the skp has the front stiles colinear to each other when viewed from above while those in the actual piece continue tangent to the curve. I cut the tenons and the grooves for the panels on the rails prior to steam bending them.

Wow, that is great stuff. Thanks for the links.

@unknownuser said:

@sawduster said:

Asked this down at the corner bar, but seems lots of folks don't visit there.

The corner bar is the most frequented section of the board. Just gotta know where to put things 😉 Glad you got a response 👍

Guess the section on gadgets and software and such was not the right place, huh? 🤣

I was just down on the main Corner Bar Forum andlooks like that's pretty active. The subforum on software seems a little slow, though.