Well, here's another one. First rendering of the year and another trial with KT. I think I'm getting a hang of it and managed to render this in less than an hour. Has a bit of post rendering work done to it such as depth len blur, some Xero "art noise" and a few others.

Gus

Dean,

Great work. I really like the section/isometric view.

It's rather amazing how "modern" architecture had already become in the 1920s. Most people are probably not aware of this.

Gus

Jeff,

I've had the same situation occur as well. So far it seems as though you have to try these at random at a larger scale. Anytime you get an intersetion that is around 1/16 inch or 1 mm it will corrupt the subtraction. At the same time, if you scale it too much it will corrupt the subtraction. I tried it once at 1,000,000X and the corruption was even worse.

So far my computer has survived the trip out the window and down 6 floors. It's been almost 7 years now. I have been tempted.

Gus

Thank you Sepo and Jim. Jim, I guess that was the idea since it is (was) the holiday season. Sepo, thanks for the tip on the naming in the UK. I did a search on "hopper heads" and came up with a great deal more samples and basically works of art. A couple of other names includes leaderheads and collector boxes.

I added another new file above with an assortment of other parts including a 4 inch nozzle (or spout). I did a mock up of a typical installation for this in 3 sections including one for a parapet. The two on the left are shown with a 24 inch overhangs while the center is with a 3 inch diameter downspout. Some of it is a bit heavy on the LOD so use it wisely for larger projects.

Gus

Nice. I like the way they come together for compact storage.

Thank you Dean. Mike.

I added 5 new conductor heads as noted in the original post above.

Gus

Free to good home.

Conductor heads, downspouts and concrete splashblocks. Also includes wall brackets.

These are for a 24 inch overhang but the first downspout can be stretched to meet your requirements as does the height of the downspout.

This includes a copper texture.

conductor heads and downspouts.skp

Gutter profile is heavy on the LOD so if you use it consider cutting down on the line work.

Update

Added five new conductor heads only for your use.

robatto - misc conductor heads.skp

Skp file is under 2 MB. Smallest component is around 280KB.

Gus

Update

Added another file which includes: nozzle, gutter hanger, two different downspout straps, 4 inch gutter piece with end caps, 15/75 elbows (3 and 4 inch), and downspouts (3 and 4 inch).

Also includes a tweaked "Chancellor" conductor head.

robatto - misc conductor heads 2.skp

David,

Here's the tutorial in Version 6.

drill bit tutorial v6.skp

I recommend using drawhelix13.rb for the helix and lines2tubes.rb for the tube. Follow me will distort the tube too much in this case -- even though it will still work.

Your 12 segment drill bit looks pretty good. As far as SU hanging consider that it might take some time depending on your CPU capacity. It might take 5 minutes. In my case, certain complicated functions will lead to the appearance of SU locking up when in fact it hasn't. This will happen even when I'm rendering. Sometimes I have to let SU work and not touch a thing or move the mouse away from the SU screen otherwise it will cause SU to crash. Try it again with 24 segments only this time give it a good solid 5 minutes or more without doing any other computer tasks.

Gus

Jeff,

Thanks and I'm glad the tutorial helped.

As for the segments I match them overall in the model out of habit. The helix segmentation will match the cylinder however the tube will not since it twists around the helix. Thus having them match doesn't really serve a purpose since the tube segment intersections will never meet exactly with the cylinder. I just tried this with a 35 segment cylinder and it worked just fine.

So I think no, they don't have to match. A smaller segmented tube will actually subtract more easily from the cylinder however it creates a rather rough looking object. 24 segments is good overall. I think the tubes default to ten segments.

Gus

Jeff,

OK, as promised here's a tutorial I put together for creating a sketched drill bit with Bool Tools and SU. I say sketched since a drill bit has a few more geometric features involved. This is my first tutorial so bear with me and if it works perhaps I'll move it to the tutorial section of Sketchucation.

Another way to make a bit involves using the rubies "grow" and "skin." That can create a more precise drill bit but is a bit more tedious since each profile has to be skinned.

Give this a shot and let me know how it works out.

Gus

drill bit tutorial.skp

Ouch Pete. I almost did that over 20 years ago. That involved bike shoes and an asphalt driveway. Went almost horizontal down on my tail bone and it hurt so much I just lay there staring at the sky. Nothing broke I don't think.

Excellent night rendering Edson. Great atmosphere.

Thanks Dale. Amazing what little old SU can do. Here's another drill bit this time with an edge.

I've been practicing on the drill bits trying to find the best set-up. It's not easy because it means subtracting a helix from a cylinder. In the end it becomes a double helix subtraction.

Cheers,

Gus

Thank you very much Eric, Terry and Remus.

Remus, I used the HDR Probe "Campus" however I did add a sun. My favorite of those is the "Uffizi" probe but that doesn't work very well with shiny metals.

Still trying to get a hang of Kerkythea. At first it wasn't that way but once I got started it seemed to get easier. Of course using it for an architectural rendering is something I'm still working on.

Gus

Another great ruby Dale. Scooped it up the second I saw this post last night.

Since I've been putzing around with drill bits I thought this would be handy amongst other objects. This is an eyeballed version I just did without needing any clean up.

The cut into the cylinder had to be copied twice (180 degrees). Basically this involved: 1) helix13; 2) curves to tubes; and 3) Bool Tools.

This will surely cut down on intersecting and erasing.

Nice. Is that a Borco cover I see on there?

While experimenting with that skp it made my computer beep. CPU warning followed by a Bug Splat.

However, I had another idea which is to reduce the amount of faces. At the pallete bases you might want to consider replacing the curve with a chamfered edge (or bevel). It has about 6 faces which can be reduced to a single plane of the chamfer. It'll help for sure.

Great concept and execution on the palette idea.

Jason,

Thank you.

I used the "Round Edges by Bezier" ruby. At first I did the interior sides of the caliper to scale since the model is to scale. What I found was that it limited the radius to 5 mm for the most part and that it resulted in a lot of broken edges. Regardless that worked but I had to do a lot of manual repairing of the broken curves in place.

This is the after stage were you can see that I also worked in quarters since it's symetrical here (upper right).

Later, I discovered that increasing the model by 4X worked better with far fewer broken curves. I was able to have more flexibility with the radii sizes as well. In this image below it shows the white faces which had the broken parts. This was caused of all things by one tiny broken line and one larger broken line from the extrusion. One of those will result in poor round edges. After I cleaned up the extrusion it was able to perform a clean round edge. I also like to extend some of the work beyond the confines of related parts. I pushed everything back to were it belonged and scaled it back down by 0.25X.

The sides of course had to be two parts for the swooped portion over the name.

So scaling up helps as does cleaning up the lines from the extrusion. They have to be continuous. Welding lines also helps for this as with other SU functions.

Gus

Just in case. Here's the ruby.

http://www.crai.archi.fr/RubyLibraryDepot/Ruby/BzRoundEdge_v1.zip

Thank you very much, Pete. Spent a lot of time on this and this is the second version. After looking at it for so long, you know, it gets old after a while.

Cheers.

Sake,

Seems to be a lag when drawing any linework on the original drawing. At 3.88 MB it's not that large of a file considering. I go up to 20 MB sometimes and I have a P4 CPU.

Try this which I just tested. It's rather simple.

Open a new drawing fresh. Then, insert this drawing into the new drawing a component and explode.

Should clear things up quite a bit. Works on my end.

Don't forget to purge the new drawing.