What's this?
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Some cultures consider it a compliment to the cook when you belch at the table. This just takes the compliment to a whole new level.
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.....may as well go the full hog and build in an air extractor
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Here's v3 - it has a more logical base made from swastika dado lapped 'base-feet' and a simpler back made form the same thickness foam as the seat...
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Good idea to make the seat-back lower with the rest of the back. I enjoy seeing how a project develops.
Some questions -
Why not make the seat-back flush with the top of the L-shaped assembly? It's very low anyhow, this would give more support.
Are you going to round the edges of the wood?
Will there be some sort of handle/cutout to grasp to raise/lower the seat-back?
I'll go away now
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@hellnbak said:
Good idea to make the seat-back lower with the rest of the back. I enjoy seeing how a project develops.
Some questions -
Why not make the seat-back flush with the top of the L-shaped assembly? It's very low anyhow, this would give more support.
Are you going to round the edges of the wood?
Will there be some sort of handle/cutout to grasp to raise/lower the seat-back?
I'll go away now
The top of the 'pad' is lower because it must fit under the table top in the lowered-position.
This small upstand gives something to hold when sliding the L-shaped-back upwards.
It could incorporate a routered 'internal' horizontal finger 'groove' for a grip - leaving the outside faces all similar and flush/flat.
The main external corners of the panels are shown rounded by 10mm, the other edges of the panels could be given a 'pencil-round' [3mm?]
We have yet to devise 'sliders/locking-catches' for the L-back, the chairs' castors/slides/glides, and the 'bottle-jack' to lift/lower the table-top from 'coffee' to 'dining' ??? -
@hellnbak said:
Good idea to make the seat-back lower with the rest of the back. I enjoy seeing how a project develops.
Some questions -
Why not make the seat-back flush with the top of the L-shaped assembly? It's very low anyhow, this would give more support.
Are you going to round the edges of the wood?
Will there be some sort of handle/cutout to grasp to raise/lower the seat-back?
I'll go away now
The top of the 'pad' is lower because it must fit under the table top in the lowered-position.
This small upstand gives something to hold when sliding the L-shaped back up.
It could incorporate a routered 'internal' horizontal finger 'groove' for a grip - leaving the outside faces all similar and flush/flat.
The main external corners of the panels are shown rounded by 10mm, the other edges of the panels could be given a 'pencil-round' [3mm?]
We have yet to devise 'sliders/locking-catches' for the L-back, the chairs' castors/slides/glides, and the 'bottle-jack' to lift/lower the table-top from 'coffee' to 'dining' ??? -
Beautiful thinking outside the box!
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So.....not what you were looking for?
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Not quite Steve
Anyway, did a bit more on it. I went with an octagonal top and used dowels to get around the Coffee and Dining heights. It would be a mater of lifting the table out from the coffee table position, turning it 45 degrees and popping it back into the slots for the dinging position. I imagine is these dowels were hardwood they would be reasonably ridged.
I also figured out a simple way to hold the seat back in the upright position by having a drop down hinged prop.
Non of this is high tech but again I wanted something that could be knocked out in a small workshop.
![Coffee-Dining-Storage (COFFEE POSITION] v3.jpg](/uploads/imported_attachments/4kt9_Coffee-Dining-StorageCOFFEEPOSITIONv3.jpg)
![Coffee-Dining-Storage [DINING POSITION] v3.jpg](/uploads/imported_attachments/8bcs_Coffee-Dining-StorageDININGPOSITIONv3.jpg)
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Nice idea, but (me being me) I do have one or two observations --
Don't know how much the top might weigh, but seems it might be difficult aligning the dowels into the holes once the top was lifted. You would be unable to actually see the holes because you would be looking down at the table top. Unless you went with your original idea and used a glass tabletop, but then you've got the weight problem again. Also it seems like the dowels would have to be pretty long to provide stability once it's in the raised position, requiring it to be lifted even higher, and they would have to fit very snugly in the holes or the top would wobble. I would also be a bit concerned that this appears to be a two-person operation. Would be much preferable (to me) and more appealing to those that might be interested in your design, to have just one person be able do the transformation from coffee table to dining table, and back again.
Just my thoughts, playing Devil's advocate here
am I becoming a pain yet?
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Just downloaded your model, and after raising the top noticed that you had tapered the ends of the dowels. This would indeed make the insertion easier. Also noticed after raising it that it might not be as difficult as I first thought to see what you were doing during the operation.
My bad
Really liked the way you designed the hinged props to fold down sideways and the seat back fits neatly around them.
One final question - does the average home workshop have the capability to drill holes that diameter, that deep?
I'm going to bed now
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Here's a way to make a back-slider.
A groove in the moving part and a HW strip runner on the fixed part with the bottom part half 'bent' inwards as a 'spring-catch'. It then catches when the back is up max, to lower press them in and the back slides down...
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Yeah, Steve the dowel system is not the best but I think it could be developed. I doubt there would be much stability in what I am showing. Maybe by v10 the best solution might be viable.
Clever system TIG. This again could be further developed.
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Is it a subject to manufacturing?
Just asking and thinking about the type of material, which has to be used and hold together in any commercial environment.
But, maybe I'm going too far
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No manufacturing in mind as yet Gregory, just playing around. If it develops into something, so be it
Just thinking out loud ...... maybe TIG's sprung clip could be used in a double central column (inner / outer) to achieve an easy dual height for the table.
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Maybe...
Make the top [moving] 'sleeve' bigger than the bottom part and use sprung hw catches...
Awkward to 'unlatch' 4 of them !
???
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How about tabletop supports that move with the tabletop?
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Yeah, something along the lines of both might work. I was thinking about an umbrella type support struts also.
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Great idea... though I think as you drew it the 'down' support locations might clash with the chairs under etc...
However, it could be the basis of a neat solution...
Perhaps a two-step lift...
You raise the table higher that its 'up' position and the supports lock in place at their bottom ends, then the top ends of the supports slide out to lock in the top in its 'up'...
Perhaps along these lines ?
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