Offline
Modeled this mid century style bar based on a couple of pics I saw on the internet. A couple of quick renders in
Twilight. I definitely have to put this in a scene with a bunch of barware and such and do some renders. I want one, no place to put it in the house but still want one 
blackdogsketch , not sure if your last post was directed at me but I'll chime in. If I want to do a presentation board with a sketchy line style and the native SU shaded w/ textures this is what I do......
Save my native SU image , shaded with textures. Open the styles window and select the sketchy line style I want to use. Save this image at twice the size as the native SU image.
Import my sketchy line image into Gimp , scale back down to size of shaded w/ textures image. Make background transparent.
Drag native shaded w/texture image into gimp and there you have it.
Reasons for doing this. Sketchy line styles generally look a little to heavy when printed out. Scaling down usually looks better without losing the sketchy effect. I'm also able to work on the line overlay and erase any errant lines that I don't want in my final image. I can also reduce the "strength of lines in the distance if they appear to "strong" by running the erase tool with the opacity dialed down. Don't lose the lines but their not so "in your face" as lines in the foreground.
I've never had issues with the time it takes to save multiple images, but I'm usually not working with massive models. Although the size of the file can run pretty high due to lots of organic models in the drawing. Think one of my bigger files has over 3 million faces in it.
Hope your able to figure things out.
"So if I have a line drawing of a circle, the area outside the perimeter will retain transparency but the area inside will be a "color"? Interesting...OK, thanks for the tip. I'll tell the PS person about this.[/quote]"
Exactly. Do a quick test. Pull a cube in SU, save with transparency. Open with PS, cube will be white, all the background will have transparency.
blackdogsketch, no expert but do a lot of line overlay stuff for presentation boards. maybe I can offer some help.
1 - enabling transparency when exporting a 2d graphic only applies transparency to empty areas of the view. all objects still retain their color. to get transparent image I export my line style image, open in Gimp and run the "color to alpha" operation. wipes out all the white so I can overlay on my other images. I'm sure PhotoShop has a similar function.
2 - Export your line style images at twice the resolution of your view size. Scale back down in Photoshop. Your styles will retain their character without looking to heavy. It seems to be the common practice when doing this type of work.
3 - can't really give any insight into your jpeg question as I always export my stuff in png format.
was trying to look at the positives with my first post. your reply makes me think you missed the point I was trying to make. google cabin and cabin interiors and maybe you'll better get what I'm driving at. When I look at your render I like the lighting, panorama . colors of the various materials but it doesn't say "cabin in the mountains" to me , more like a condo.... I think the average person viewing the image would be hard pressed to say it evokes the feel of a country cabin.
o.k I know it's not a car or godzilla, just started messing about with SubD last night. trying to wrap my brain around a new way of doing things. here's a mod style chip & dip bowl for your next party. copied my steps for the pic.
plain cup in front pretty much native SU tools
far left, base shape of bowl , pretty much Vertex tools
middle bowl , shaped wavy edge , all Vertex
far right , SubD , copied and scaled down for the dip.
I think I really like this, don't think I could have got these shape without Vertex & SubD , thanks thomthom.. 
a wonderful model , as always. your right about the legs and stretcher. never seen that before. adds a cool twist to a style that can get a little too linear and blocky at times.
Climbing on the bus with everyone else, don't really like subscription based software. Be a great plugin to have but wouldn't be using it everyday.
Going to gang up with Box. Creating a demo video in SU to help sell your product seems like commercial use to me ?
HornOxx , thank you very much.
Rich , appreciate your input. I'll have you know I never buy irregular oranges 
. actually never occurred to me to ovate their shapes a little. as for stems oops they have no stems 
. I was shooting for a high glaze ceramic look on the bowl and canisters, but I have a noise map I got from the Twilight forum that I'll give a try on the canisters , sort of a side by side comparison. thanks much for the positivity and the critique. chuck.
Clean modeling, nice render. Like your panorama thru the windows. Just got to say we must travel to waaaay different mountains. Been in a lot of cabins in my life , never seen one that looked like that inside!!! Still it's a very nice clean render.
pretty cool concept I can see mom asking big brother. "where's your little brother", big brother scuffs foot on ground replies "in the wall"
Mike the guy getting the good fee never picks up a hammer or tape. Poor guy with the tool belt gets same $$ wether this or an outhouse.
interesting study, but would hate to be the poor bastard that had to build it.... 
Not sure why your trying to make your model like this. I'm no expert at 3D printing but have been researching and reading up on it of late. As I understand the process on an object like a vase the thickness of the print would be the distance between the inner and outer wall of the model. It just seems that would be the logical way to make an object like a vase so it's walls are solid. Seems like your trying to model it so there would be a hollow cavity between the inner and outer wall ? If it's trying to cut down the amount of material used I've posted a pick of another vase. The inside follows the contour of the outside. It's actual thickness would be determined by the requirements of the printing material used. As a side note both models I posted check out as solid and could be printed.
If your determined to keep trying what you've been doing. Try using JointPushPull on the outer surface before you twist the vase. After the twist the geometry is insane and it's asking a lot of JPP to try and pull thickness on something with that crazy of geometry. If JPP works before the twist you could group everything and then give it the twist. Remember work REAL BIG !
One last thing if you haven't already, you might talk to a 3D printing service for the best way to approach this.
Oh and if your wondering I scaled the vase down before I saved the image. Sprockets are at the size I did all the modeling.
