Very cool. Love wedges.

A couple router bits and the right proportions would make pretty quick work of those. When you look at the pieces individually, the joint is fairly straight forward. Cutting by hand, as they were in the past, could be a little problematic depending on the size of the work pieces. Especially the part in the picture below.

I suppose some chisel work could do the job, but . . .

While building models of some furniture recently I got to thinking about hardware, drawer and door pulls and the like. Ended up making some simple ones, but thought it would be nice to have a collection of such available. It'd be even nicer if there were some that were actually available from the manufacturers for some of the stuff they make so that if one were to build the piece from wood, the pulls would be available.

Anyway, lacking that, I checked here and found some pulls on a couple pieces posted here, then some more at the 3D Warehouse. Presuming that public posting of models opens the parts of the models up for use by the general public, I pulled several of the ones I found into a SU model which I've loaded on my web space and linked below. The file is quite large, over 2M, so beware.

Download Model

Alternative Download(original was not available.)

You been pretty quiet lately Kris. Been away?

Cutting the birds mouth would be the easy part. Shifting the rafter and associated stuff attached to it dcown to seat on the plate would be the tough part. Setting the rafter for the bird mouth from the get-go is the ticket.

Don't know exactly what you want to know about, but this will bump it back up where someone who knows more may be able to help more than me.

What I've done, as well as what I've seen in other tuts using SketchUp, is to use a sort of cumulative approach. Start with your first scene then copy it as a group and paste it in a location out to the left. Once you've pasted it, right click and make it unique, then add the next pieces in the drawing. Add a scene and update it from the view you want, and repeat the procedure. If you don't make each one unique, any changes you make will be added to the previous ones.

If you've got a lot of textual instructions you might try using somethink like "Wink" found here http://www.debugmode.com/wink/. It is a tutorial creating program that might be better suited for your task.

Well, I learned my something new for the day. Guess I can take the rest of the day off.

I had been saving woodgrain materials in both orientations when I imported them so that I could have the grain running right. Now I've found out I can just spin em around after they've been painted on.

The kneelers do have padding, I'll use some thin masonite with foam, then covered with vinyl. They'll attach to the rail via velcro strips so they can be removed for cleaning and repair.

For the height, a went around to several pieces of furniture in the house till I found something close, measured from the floor, then added two inches. I'm 5'10" and it is a little bit of a stretch for me to the height I came up with, which felt about the same for a prayer rail at another Church. The minister asked the same thing, and laughed when she pictured my wife (5'2") and I going around the kneeling in front of different pieces of furniture.

Got the go-ahead to start building this for our Church. I actually did three different versions of this, one all in natural oak, this one with natural oak pillars and top and the slats of a secondary wood painted white, and one which was all painted except the top. The minister liked the all oak, but decided that it might become a little overwhelming so decided to go with this one. Using a less expensive secondary wood for the painted stuff will save quite a lot of money.

Quite some time back I stumbled onto a website of a collection of Japanese woodworking joints. One of the things I noticed was that, unlike western style joinery which has a very limited number of joints for making two short peices of wood into one long one, Japanese joinery had a large selection for performing this task. Japanese joinery also depended a lot more on mechanical holding power as opposed to glue surfaces which are prevalent in western joinery. And even so, the few western joints that used more mechanical means in the past have been simplified in the last 100 years or so to become more dependent on glue and less on mechanics. No real reason for posting this other than I found the differences interesting.

Don't know if anyone has already described this but this is how I do similar holes etc.

Open the component into which you want to make the holes for editing. Draw the surface shape, i.e. your rectangle, onto the surface where you need the first hole. Double click and make the rectangle a component. If you holes need to be evenly spaced along the length (with me that is generally the case) use the "Move" tool, tapping {CRTL} to make a copy and move the rectangle to the position of the furthest hole and click to put it in position. Now type {/} and the total number of holes in the piece minus 1; for 15 holes you would type "/14" and hit enter. Voila, 15 evenly spaced rectangles.

Now double click one of the rectangles to edit it, and use the push/pull tool to push it as deep as it needs to be. All the holes in the the piece will appear as you work on the one.

Edit in> A little more needs to be added. When you do the push/pull it will create the void you want under the top surface, but that surface remains intact. So, watch the depth on the VRB or PUSH/PULL then enter your desired depth into the VRB. After you click or hit return, click on the surface of the rectangle you're editing to hilite it, and hit delete. Then hilite the surfaces inside the hole, right click and choose "Reverse Faces"

Here's a Tut:
http://www.sawdustersplace.com/Sketchup%20files/MultipleHoles.skp

I think a lot depends on what you're modeling as to the work flow. I make detailed furniture plans and basically every piece is a component that makes up subassemblies which are also components. I use groups occassionally, but generally on a temporary basis such as to copy and paste an assembly or entire piece elsewhere and to make the entire thing "unique" from the original to create exploded views without the original coming apart.

I've recently started using layering which helps to get "inside" of pieces to work on them by removing panels, drawers, or tops to make alterations to framing members. Placing dimensions in a separate layer also helps remove clutter.

Gaius said . . . *In your last image there are two kinds of faces: white and blue. White means "front" or "outside" while blue is "back" or "inside".
Make sure to have only white faces shown (and the blue ones inside the wall thickness).

You can right click on a white face and choose "orient faces" from the context menu. However this tool does not always work properly. If so, you need to select the blue faces and right click again and choose "reverse faces".*

That's my something new for today. I had noticed I was getting some blue surfaces, some white, and some grey. Figured the grey was shadows, but could figure what the blue was. Now I know. Thanks!!!

If you still haven't been able to get on over there, let me know and I'll check with the moderator. There have been some issues in the past with difficulties getting registered.

Yep. Sometimes the most obvious direction to an answer is the last place we look. Hadn't dawned on me that the parts, pieces, textures and stuff must go with the file if it is transported, whether it be to the 3d warehouse, or simply attached to an email and sent to yourself so you can work on it on a different computer at a different place with another instance of SU running.

Alan,
That Kneehole Desk is simply gorgeous. Wouldn't have SU plans for it, now would you? ;

Bernard,
Since I'm designing and not replicating, there is no image of an actual leg to provide. The curves do not need to be super accurate. The execution of the real thing is done by applying a pair of mirrored patterns to two adjacent faces of a board carefully matching their orientation to each other. The pattern on one face is then cut out using a band saw (or other saw capable of making curved cuts), and then the waste from the cut is taped back in place, and the adjacent pattern is cut out. This leaves a squared off version of the leg which is then rounded appropriately using rasps or other freehand tools. While pairs or sets of the legs need to be very similar to each other, this is not (in my case at least) a machining process which requires super accuracy.

Thanks for the CTRL-Erase tool trick.

Kristoff,
Sorry 'bout that. I'm a member of a half dozen different forums and every one of them works differently. Still getting used to this one. Here's a couple jpgs of what I was starting with and what I wanted to get to.

Thanks all, some good stuff to try. Funny how I get thinking in 3d, and the 2d thing just slips right on by.

Thanks for the greeting, Eric. I'm around Austin. I say that as I work in Austin but live northwest of the city in a place called Cedar Park.

I've tried pushing that curve through, but due to the non-planar surface opposite, it wants to stick as soon as any part of the section runs out of material, for want of a better word. Guess I'll try to push it through so it comes out the other side and see what happens.

I'm wanting to round off that entire vertical edge from the knee at the top all of the way down to the foot. In wood, I would simply grind/sand/cut away that corner all of the way down so it was rounded over.

Mike,
That is it. A tutorial would be grand. Thanks.

I've been beating my head against the wall all day trying to figure out how to do this. http://www.sawdustersplace.com/Sketchup%20files/CabrioleLeg.skp is what I've been able to accomplish fairly easily, but I can not figure out how to round off the front edge of this leg (Scene 1) or to get the curve to the back surfaces once the front surfaces have been made and are not on a single plane parallel to the back surfaces. Anyone have any ideas? HELP!!!!

Jerry

I am amazed at how much I have learned here about using SU. I've posted a couple questions, but mostly just perusing through answers to questions by others and viewing the great tutorials.

I'm on a T1 and it took quite a long time to download then was extremely sluggish.