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Very nice samples and work. I like the atmosphere and lighting for the outdoor renderings as well as the interior shots. The hospital bed even looks inviting (if that's possible) with the colors and lighting.
What settings do you use for the outdoor renderings in Kerkythea? I've been using just a "sun" with some of the probe presets.
Thanks Sepo, Tom.
Sepo, I was actually thinking about the saturation and how it might be too intense. I'll be working on that for now.
I did another rendering this time using a different sky global and with a brick material from KT (Bricks-Jag). I like the specular sheen but it lacks grout.
Essentially a photonmap KT render with a high fuzzy tracing setting. As were the previous renderings.
Gus
"Months later after the gorrila attack Sang is seen here contemplating a rather large shark circling his rowboat while wearing the very same outfit."
Dirk,
Seems like there are quite a few packages at Turbo Squid. They're around 100 USD. Dosch also has one low-poly people package that's 119 EUR.
I've aquired a texture package from Dosch in the past and it works pretty good. My guess would be that you would have to get the 3DS pack and then import. Would have to double and triple check first before purchasing.
This being if you can or want to buy these. 
Gus
Thanks for the comments and ideas PB and Tom. I started staring at that white light bulb there and started thinking.
The client and designer want a large light fixture there but it probably wouldn't have been that one in the end. I exchanged it for another I made for other locations for my residential renderings.
This above has a yellow pine material door (KT) and the shiner A1 copper material. The copper mat seems to obfuscate the house number. Not a big problem really. The glass material is a car glass which is also from the KT site forum.
This one is basically as the very first except for an ash wood SU texture.
It's hard to notice the hip shingle work. Basically I offset the line work (at the hip ridge) around 7 inches and then extended the line accordingly. I then rotate each texture. When done I used joint push pull to push the planes out 1/2 inch. Actually I think it does look more realistic. Fortunately the roof is all one pitch at the second floor and over the porch. I have done many with 3 different roof pitches.
I like the car glass material and the less reflective copper. The SU ash texture also seems to look better.
Thanks,
Gus
Pretty cool. Nice work all around and I like the image transition script.
Looks fine without any people. If you do start including figures into the renders they have to match the style of the model itself. Flat figures (for example) simply don't look very good in a 3D model so you'd have to use 3D figures. That's just my take on that.
Well, here's another one. First rendering of the year and another trial with KT. I think I'm getting a hang of it and managed to render this in less than an hour. Has a bit of post rendering work done to it such as depth len blur, some Xero "art noise" and a few others.
Gus
Dean,
Great work. I really like the section/isometric view.
It's rather amazing how "modern" architecture had already become in the 1920s. Most people are probably not aware of this.
Gus
Jeff,
I've had the same situation occur as well. So far it seems as though you have to try these at random at a larger scale. Anytime you get an intersetion that is around 1/16 inch or 1 mm it will corrupt the subtraction. At the same time, if you scale it too much it will corrupt the subtraction. I tried it once at 1,000,000X and the corruption was even worse.
So far my computer has survived the trip out the window and down 6 floors. It's been almost 7 years now. I have been tempted. 
Gus
Thank you Sepo and Jim. Jim, I guess that was the idea since it is (was) the holiday season. Sepo, thanks for the tip on the naming in the UK. I did a search on "hopper heads" and came up with a great deal more samples and basically works of art. A couple of other names includes leaderheads and collector boxes.
I added another new file above with an assortment of other parts including a 4 inch nozzle (or spout). I did a mock up of a typical installation for this in 3 sections including one for a parapet. The two on the left are shown with a 24 inch overhangs while the center is with a 3 inch diameter downspout. Some of it is a bit heavy on the LOD so use it wisely for larger projects.
Gus
Nice. I like the way they come together for compact storage.
Thank you Dean. Mike.
I added 5 new conductor heads as noted in the original post above.
Gus
Free to good home.
Conductor heads, downspouts and concrete splashblocks. Also includes wall brackets.
These are for a 24 inch overhang but the first downspout can be stretched to meet your requirements as does the height of the downspout.
This includes a copper texture.
conductor heads and downspouts.skp
Gutter profile is heavy on the LOD so if you use it consider cutting down on the line work.
Update
Added five new conductor heads only for your use.
robatto - misc conductor heads.skp
Skp file is under 2 MB. Smallest component is around 280KB.
Gus
Update
Added another file which includes: nozzle, gutter hanger, two different downspout straps, 4 inch gutter piece with end caps, 15/75 elbows (3 and 4 inch), and downspouts (3 and 4 inch).
Also includes a tweaked "Chancellor" conductor head.
David,
Here's the tutorial in Version 6.
I recommend using drawhelix13.rb for the helix and lines2tubes.rb for the tube. Follow me will distort the tube too much in this case -- even though it will still work.
Your 12 segment drill bit looks pretty good. As far as SU hanging consider that it might take some time depending on your CPU capacity. It might take 5 minutes. In my case, certain complicated functions will lead to the appearance of SU locking up when in fact it hasn't. This will happen even when I'm rendering. Sometimes I have to let SU work and not touch a thing or move the mouse away from the SU screen otherwise it will cause SU to crash. Try it again with 24 segments only this time give it a good solid 5 minutes or more without doing any other computer tasks.
Gus
Jeff,
Thanks and I'm glad the tutorial helped.
As for the segments I match them overall in the model out of habit. The helix segmentation will match the cylinder however the tube will not since it twists around the helix. Thus having them match doesn't really serve a purpose since the tube segment intersections will never meet exactly with the cylinder. I just tried this with a 35 segment cylinder and it worked just fine.
So I think no, they don't have to match. A smaller segmented tube will actually subtract more easily from the cylinder however it creates a rather rough looking object. 24 segments is good overall. I think the tubes default to ten segments.
Gus
Jeff,
OK, as promised here's a tutorial I put together for creating a sketched drill bit with Bool Tools and SU. I say sketched since a drill bit has a few more geometric features involved. This is my first tutorial so bear with me and if it works perhaps I'll move it to the tutorial section of Sketchucation.
Another way to make a bit involves using the rubies "grow" and "skin." That can create a more precise drill bit but is a bit more tedious since each profile has to be skinned.
Give this a shot and let me know how it works out.
Gus
Ouch Pete. I almost did that over 20 years ago. That involved bike shoes and an asphalt driveway. Went almost horizontal down on my tail bone and it hurt so much I just lay there staring at the sky. Nothing broke I don't think.
Excellent night rendering Edson. Great atmosphere. 
Thanks Dale. Amazing what little old SU can do. Here's another drill bit this time with an edge.
I've been practicing on the drill bits trying to find the best set-up. It's not easy because it means subtracting a helix from a cylinder. In the end it becomes a double helix subtraction.
Cheers,
Gus
