Added my (continued) support to your Kickstarter campaign!

That's pretty much how it's done down here, and with the detail I sent you it sounds like what you've seen and what we do are pretty close. I would agree, too, that the 2x sleepers rarely have the edge beveled to be in-plane - it takes too much time for the framers to figure the correct cut.

In my neck of the woods we don't use valley sets - where one roof covers the main truss set it is usually stick-framed (usually 2x4's and 2x6's) with what we call 'California Fill' that bears on the main set. PM me if you'd like to see a typical detail.

This is how I do it: after you've logged into your account it should bring up the main screen that has the Plugins towards the bottom of the page. Pick on either one (say, the truss plugin), then when it shows your order number pick on it. At that window it should say "Download Now" at the top - pick that and save the new version to your computer.

I think the CA might be Canadian - someone else may know more than my guess? US pricing is $49.99 each. Well worth the cost!

I'm also looking forward to when they roll out the Affinity DTP (the upgrade from Serif PagePlus)!

Long-time Serif user here too - bought Affinity Designer and Photo as well. Haven't had time to get into both yet but looking forward to using both soon!

@medeek said:

What is the typical header thickness between the top of the vent hole and the top of foundation?

What I usually do is provide a solid wood header within the floor framing and suck the vents up tight to the top of the stem wall.

As to size, it will vary depending on the topography of the site, total size of the underfloor area, etc. Also, here in California if you are in the "SRA" (State Responsibility Area, which is where fire protection is provided by state forces such as Cal Fire) you have to use approved ember-resistant vents which are further limiting.

I've had HP plotters (DJ 330 and 450C), and Canon Plotters (iPF 755 and iPF785), and have used HP 1055's when I worked for other architects. I love my iPF785 - ink lasts quite a long time and seems to be a little less per ounce than the HP's, and is reasonably fast for a one-person office. Epson plotters seem to have good specs but have not seen one in action or known anyone with one yet. Check prices online - I found my first iPF755 for $1,800 basically brand new on eBay (an architect going through a divorce who had to unload the plotter he'd only had a month for CHEAP and right away). I traded it in after a couple of years on a new iPF785 that included a 36" color scanner - one of the best purchases I ever made.

I work with a contractor who normally builds spec homes, and he LOVES exposed heavy beams and trusses - I vote yes!!

Love it - I'll purchase them when they're done!

Thanks Nathaniel - much appreciated!

Make sure that you offer those of us who renewed (but paid the full boat price since the renewal process hasn't been implemented yet) a refund of the extra dollars or some other goody (maybe apply the overage to next year's upgrade fee?).

The problem isn't so much that they don't come along often, it's when they DO come along you need the tool NOW! I don't normally design dual pitches either but up in the Sierra Nevada mountains (in the snow) it's done quite a bit.

I've done a little playing and all appears to work fine.

Thanks for being so thorough, Nathaniel! Looking forward to the next update of your amazing plugins!

Nathaniel -

Yep, that's basically it (though I've also see the top plates lapped into the header as well).

What I've done in the past (and seems to work the best) is simply frame it as a door opening (36" or 48") with a 4x4 (or 4x6) with the top flush with the double top plate.

A few observations ...

1. In residential construction here in central California the norm is to pour the garage slab monolithically with the footings. Some builders will pour the footings and stems first and then come back with the garage floor slab, but there aren't many. Our frost depth is very shallow.
2. My preference for sloping of the garage slab is to have a 3-1/2" drop at the top end below the residence's finished floor slab and sloped down to 5-1/2" at the garage door end.

@medeek said:

For gambrel attic advanced options I should also include the option for a crow's beak as shown in this model and the option to set the extension.

This would be a GREAT addition! Is there any logic to how far back along the main fascia that the crow's beak is supposed to merge in? Could this be an option along with the depth for the extension?

And don't forget Chuck Vali's amazing RoofNui plug-in

https://valiarchitects.com/sketchup_scripts