Great collection, thanks! Sketchdata might interest people doing cabinets http://www.sketchdata.com/

There is an easy way to make the legs if you the time to sort through some lumber. As this is a gentle curve, if you can find a board that has this curve in the grain and then cut it out on the band saw it should be very strong. I was taught this by an Englishman that said the shop he apprenticed in always sorted out lumber with the grain curved to use for curved legs. They especially like boards cut near the buttress of the tree as they were always curved and had lots of uses. Nice table Dave.

Well for my next project I will need to find a way to add that joint into the design. I have a Japanese double mortise chisel that will be perfect to chop the motices. This will be fun on the bench.

Nice collection. I have never made puzzle joints like this mortise and tenon, but it would be a fun challenge
Joint.pdf

Thanks for the tip on the FredoScale plug in. I have and use it but had forgotten it will stretch without changing the miter! It will be a big help in a lot of what I want to do, just need to remember to use it. I model the way I build items. We use a CNC for as many operations as we can so you need to be accurate. You need to measure all your materials before you set up to cut. We find each lift of particle board and laminate varies in thickness. So I feel modeling like this saves me time in the long run.
I would love to know what other people find they can leave out of models that saves time in modeling.
Thanks again
Jeff

Scaling works fine and that will be my method. Any thoughts on the best way to intersect nested components, or must that be done one component at a time?
Thanks for the help understanding the limitations of push pull.

I also tried Fredo's JPP and did not see a way for it it pull multiple components they way I envisioned. Maybe I should post on that thread? I will look into TIG's Slicer and see if that can do multiple components. I wonder if I need to change my approach to this type of modeling?
Thanks
Jeff

I currently work as you have laid out but it is a bit tedious, so was looking for faster more efficient methods. Which plug in would you suggest for these type of operations?
Thanks

I was wondering what might be the best approach do to push pull and intersect multiple components at the same time. For example, a counter of 4 components and want you to lengthen it,(did not want to explode it) is it best to scale it to lengthen or push pull? If push pull how do you do all 4 components at the same time? Also if you wanted to miter the counter, is there a way to do all 4 components at the same time?
Thanks
Jeff

Plam counter 1.125 core and .75 wood edge.skp

Thanks for the help.

No it is not a circle! But if I weld them it is now a curve, which is closer but not what is needed. Not seeing how to make it a circle, still missing something.
Thanks

Great plug in but I noticed if I intersect 2 components, then try and find the center of the circle that is left from the intersection the plug in does not find the center. Also if you add a face to the circle it also does not add the center point. Am I missing something?

Test.skp

Each tube is a lay up of veneer - 5 ply using epoxy. The test pieces seemed very strong (My extensive shop testing was to make a tube and stress it. I know not very technical!) so no carbon fiber was used. I set up the geometry for the bike and modeled each tube in SketchUp, then in SketchUp made forms to be cut out on a CNC. Pressing the 1/2 tubes was very straight forward, just some clamps at the bench worked fine. Then joints were cut at the end of the tubes and the tubes were joined together in a mold so a 1/2 front triangle could be made.

Now for some fitting to be done so that I can join the 2 halves, then it should be ready for the road this spring. If the snow ever melts here. Plans right now are if it works and passes a few easy rides, like a parking lot, to make another and do destructive and or strength testing, as I am not sure I could ever ride the first one, because I know I would always be wondering if I got a good enough glue bond at the joints!

54 cm Aero road bike together.pdf

I am making a 5 ply veneer road bike frame now. The front triangle should be completed in a week or so. I designed the frame on SketchUp and and made the tube forms on a CNC. My model is not pretty but i will post a picture of it and some of the parts later. If anyone has questions let me know.

Thanks for the suggestions for the move by fence, but when I select the end by fence and extend the tube, the taper does not change left to right. Not sure it the taper changes in the other plane. I was hoping to easily extend the tube to have the taper grow or shrink on the ends, this would need to be in 2 planes. I will look at the plug in later.
Thanks
Jeff

Test.skp

David
I am hoping to avoid redrawing the tube as the joints at the ends are a bit of a pain for me to get right. If I do redraw I will start with the form first.
Thanks
Jeff

I need to make a form to press 5 layers of wood veneer to make a half tube. For a the front tube creating the form was no problem. The top tube tapers in 2 planes. The form to press the veneers would need to be larger than the tube. Scaling up the tube does not maintain the taper. See the guide lines as to where I would project the taper to be. How do I stretch the tube uniformly a few inches longer at both ends? Seems like this should be straight forward what am I missing?
Thanks
Jeff

Form front tube.skp

Top tube.skp

Very nice design. I did not see in your model how you are planning to attach the table top. There will be a great deal of expansion and contraction and I am a big fan of furniture buttons. They are small clips, shop made that screw to the underside of the table top and slide in a groove in the rails. Also you might consider a wedged tenon,not much more work and then you never have to worry about the joint having any issues.

Dave
I have a compass plane but i find them best if the the curve is only in one plane. The surfboard is always 2 curves so a compass plane would not work. Holding a plane at an angle with only a small area in contact with the board works well, just different from all my planing trying to make a surface flat.

The woods are Western red cedar and ash. Some of the cedar was amazingly light weight. Most of my work has been with hardwoods. As a matter of fact I cannot remember the last time I worked with softwoods. I do a lot of hand planing but I have to adjust to holding the plane differently to get fair curves. This has been lots of fun both drawing and building.