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    How to get from 3D model to 2D construction plans?

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Woodworking
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    • Dave RD Offline
      Dave R
      last edited by

      Hi Michel,

      That sounds like a great little ice boat. I bet it'll be fast for what it is. A friend and I have talked about ice boats. The trouble is around here, the ice usually isn't very nice for that. This winter it has been so mild that most of the lake has been open or only just skinned with ice so I doubt there was much ice boating at all.

      It sounds like you have most everything planned out. I wonder if you might find Delftship better for developing the skins. If you had the pro version of SketchUp you could export a file you could open.

      As to the bulkheads, I wouldn't have bothered to edit them to 2D when you lay them out. If you set the Camera to Parallel Projection, you won't see the thickness anyway. Personally I would still use components instead of groups. I would set the axes for the bulkhead components so they are at the center on one face of bulkhead. Then, to do the layout of them, I would drag them in from the In Model component library and drop them onto a rectangle drawn vertically that represents the sheet of plywood. There's no reason to have to lay the components down flat onto the ground plane, afterall. Does that make sense? If not I can make an example. OR, if you want to send your SKP by PM, I'll do it with your model.

      Etaoin Shrdlu

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      • M Offline
        MichelC
        last edited by

        Hi Dave,

        About not laying the parts flat but slap them vertically against a sheet.....good thought. I am still lacking in 3D thinking, that's clear, indeed there is no need to turn parts flat on the floor. Removing the thickness of the bulkheads and turning them into a simple line drawing was necessary to get the part as .dxf into Astra for nesting. So I have to find out if I can use the Grid plugin to make a vertical grid. I really need a scalable grid around the parts to be able to convert them to full size saw patterns.

        I'm amazed that at your location (Minnesota, right?) the ice was so weak. We've had ice here in the Netherlands for the third year in a row, after 8 years of mild winters without ice. A little ice age now, if you ask me. So I thought it's about time to finally invest in building an ice boat. I've sailed a borrowed DN for a day 30 years ago, and I still remember that day as if it were yesterday, an unforgettable experience!

        Here's another teaser for you to start on an iceboat too.

        Cheers!

        Michel


        Bluebird 0.83.jpg

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        • Dave RD Offline
          Dave R
          last edited by

          Now cut that out! You're going to make me build an ice boat aren't you? I want to build a little double-ender (15-16 feet long) next.

          Yes, I was surprised by our lack of real winter here this time around. Last winter was cold with lots of snow much like those I remember as a child. The problem here is that even with winters like that, there is so much snow on top of the ice that you'd need skis on your ice boat. And then there's the pressure ridges that form making for a bit of excitement. On the other hand, when the ice is good, you could sail for perhaps miles without tacking.

          Here's an aerial view of part of the lake.

          http://www.lakesnwoods.com/images/LakeCi42.jpg

          The lake is more than 20 miles long and in most places more than 1 mile wide. In the photo you can see the marina where I keep my sailboat. Her slip is in the near basin. If you look close you can see a bend in the nearest row of boats. My boat sits right at the bend.

          Anyway, here's a few suggestions for you. Leave the parts as components. Set their axes to some logical point. That may be dead center or it might be centered at the bottom. When you are ready to lay them out for cutting, put them on a vertical plane as I mentioned before. If you want to have a grid, that's fine but you may not need it. Once you've placed the bulkhead/frame components, Select the plane and use Intersect Faces>With Model. This will result in the edges of your bulkheads being transferred to the face of the plane. Now it's that which you'll export to Astra. This leaves your bulkheads and frames intact and, by leaving them as components, you still have the ability to make modifications in the model that carry through to the bulkheads laid out on the plane if you need to. You just have to replace the large plane before running Intersect again.

          By the way, I'd like to see photos of your build process and of the finished boat. And if I ever end up in the Netherlands when there's ice, I want a ride. πŸ˜‰

          Etaoin Shrdlu

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          • M Offline
            MichelC
            last edited by

            Dave, nice lake, from this distance it looks a bit like the lakes in Northern Italy, but with a larger marina.

            You made me aware of the benefit of using components in stead of groups, if I need to alter the model, the panels on the grid change with it. I hadn't seen that as a benefit, more as a disadvantage.

            Another problem I have is the fuselage sides. In the model they have texture, but zero thickness. In real life they will be 15 mm of 20 mm thick. The connection between decks and sides is not constructable in the way it is in the model now. In reality the sides need to be tapered down to receive the deck edge and the shape of the bulkheads changed perhaps but I don't see a way to model that without thickening up the sides. The sides are single curved, if you look from above, they have a shallow S-curve. I can't push/pull them to a thickness because of this curve. Do you see a way to thicken the sides to real life proportions?

            Michel

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            • Dave RD Offline
              Dave R
              last edited by

              It is a pretty nice lake. Techincally it's a wide area in the Mississippi River.

              So to thicken the skin to represent it's real thickness, you could use Joint Push/Pull. Hit Tab before starting the push/pull operation and choose Thickening. That ought to get you what you need for the skins.

              There are many benefits to using components in your model but the editing thing is huge.

              TTFN

              Dave

              Etaoin Shrdlu

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              • M Offline
                MichelC
                last edited by

                Dave, another great tip, the joint push/pull plugin! Many thanks! I should have known this weeks earlier.

                Michel

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                • Dave RD Offline
                  Dave R
                  last edited by

                  At least it exists now for you. A number of years ago, before it was around I drew the hull of the little boat I designed and built as a cradle for my son. I created the thickness by hand. Lots of work.


                  http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5218/5383695337_554183f1ac_z.jpg

                  Etaoin Shrdlu

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                  • Rich O BrienR Offline
                    Rich O Brien Moderator
                    last edited by

                    Wow πŸ‘

                    That's superb Dave

                    Download the free D'oh Book for SketchUp πŸ“–

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                    • Dave RD Offline
                      Dave R
                      last edited by

                      What? The lake? I didn't make it.

                      Etaoin Shrdlu

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                      • Rich O BrienR Offline
                        Rich O Brien Moderator
                        last edited by

                        The crib. It's really nice.

                        Download the free D'oh Book for SketchUp πŸ“–

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                        • Dave RD Offline
                          Dave R
                          last edited by

                          Thank you. It was fun to build, too. The planks are clear pine that I resawed and planed to 1/8" thick. It's amazing how strong it is considering how thin the planks are. The worst part was planing the rolling bevels on the planks and the gains at the ends. The planks are so thin, it only took a couple of swipes with the plane to cut them. It was easy to get too much off.

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                          • M Offline
                            MichelC
                            last edited by

                            That's a sweet little swinging bunk!

                            Michel

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                            • Dave RD Offline
                              Dave R
                              last edited by

                              Thank you Michel.

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                              • M Offline
                                MattC
                                last edited by

                                Hi MichelC
                                I think I could help.
                                I am busy with creating tools to make paper scale models in Sketchup.
                                You can see examples how my scripts work here: http://www.screenr.com/user/SketchupPP
                                In fact it covers quite a lot of what you are asking for.

                                One thing that is missing is a nesting algorithm, but it is very complex story.
                                Greets
                                Matt

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                                • C Offline
                                  chad3006
                                  last edited by

                                  I have a related question. Is there a way to export a picture from SU that would eliminate perspective distortions (parts of a model that are further away look smaller), so all visible surfaces of the model in the exported picture keep their β€œtrue” size? For my purposes the model doesn’t have to be unfolded into its various parts, just a flat picture. Does that make sense?

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                                  • Dave RD Offline
                                    Dave R
                                    last edited by

                                    Chad, you can set the camera to Parallel Projection. Look in the camera menu. Perhaps that will do what you want? another thing you can do is reduce the "wide angle" distortion by adjusting the field of view. Select the Zoom tool from the Camera toolbar. The measurements box will indicate either an angle of view or a focal length (degrees or mm). You can enter a low angle of view or a higher focal length to reduce the appearance of things receding into the distance.

                                    Here's an example:


                                    http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2427/5850582777_c4c61b6e7d_z.jpg

                                    28mm focal length


                                    http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2646/5851134266_e751b1dfff_z.jpg

                                    85mm focal length

                                    Etaoin Shrdlu

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                                    • C Offline
                                      chad3006
                                      last edited by

                                      Yes! Switching to parallel projection did the trick. Thanks!

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                                      • Dave RD Offline
                                        Dave R
                                        last edited by

                                        Cool! πŸ‘

                                        Etaoin Shrdlu

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