Gaieus said to... Ask Mike. By now, we should already have a 100K+ version, too.

Well Mike?? Nice hat!!! What is the situation??? Is there a 100K+ version.

Lloyd

Is it possible to obtain, purchase, be bribed with, win ,commission, or wrangle one of those things???

Lloyd "wanting to impress everyone in my small town" Nueabee. People will point and shout, the ladies, they will all come out!

Richard,

Actually it's simpler than it appears. It is not meant to be pasted. The two flaps make two pockets that you don't have to use both of, and when the top flap is folded in to close the envelope, it holds itself together very strongly. It is even more ridged and secure when a CD is placed inside. Try it sometime and you'll be surprised how strong it is and quick because after it's printed, a few cuts four scores, fold and it's ready to roll. (see the overlayed image just above "C" on the composite above)

I didn't think to put instructions on it because I've never given it out, but I think I'll give it to a couple of people I know locally who make nature DVDs and I'll add something like the following:

Print, cut, score and fold.
No glue necessary.
When the a CD is inserted
and the top flap is closed
the envelope holds itself together.

Lloyd

Richard,

The cars make me want to do a model just so I can fill it with cars.

Also, great looking envelope!

I hope you don’t mind if I throw in another CD envelope that I also have used for years. It’s not as polished as yours because I needed a quick solution that I could print, fold and deliver. Since it didn’t have to represent any design capability (I’m only delivering jpeg images) I just needed something neat and clean enough to look reasonably professional. It’s in Photoshop so I can change the label fairly easily, but I don’t very often. The version I usually use has a slightly larger image of my business card on it for a label, but it could take a bleed edge photo on the front part with any printer as you can see in “C”. On the back of each one I have “Date, Client, and Contents”.

You can see in “A” that the guide lines don’t print to the edge, but if the template is generally centered on the page, and you cut the lines to the edge, they work fine. If it’s done on 110lb card stock, when it’s folded with a CD in it, it makes a strong closure, and will hold two CDs quit nicely, or a CD and documentation.

I score the folds (using a Swiss Army Knife file) right on the printed side and the printed lines pretty much disappear after it’s folded.

I don’t know if the jpeg of the envelope blank that I’m posting will work as a template, but if you put it into Photoshop and size it to 8.5 X 11 inches or the Metric equivalent, it should work, and you can add your own label stuff.

Now I do hope you don’t get inundated in CD envelopes because of this. In any case, thanks for showing your design.

Lloyd

Thanks Gaieus, I looked at a dozen times before I posted and still did not see it.

I'm posting another CD envelope to add to Richards great envelope template for Layout

By the way, I finally responded to a post of yours. I think this will get you there...
http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=44198#p395378

Thanks again.

The image must be at least 0 pixels wide, 0 pixels high and at most 1600 pixels wide and 1600 pixels high. The submitted image is 1283 pixels wide and 1660 pixels high

This is what I'm getting. Notice that the submitted images is within the required size, but the image is not uploading I'm just getting the above information in "red" text.

Any suggestions?

Lloyd

Roy,

Even if you are unable to find MANDUN, you can do a search on "Honda" and "Motorcycle" and find several posts. I don't know if there is anything in there that will help you, you would have to explore those posts to see, but it might be useful.

There are some incredible car model building tutorials and examples that may assist you with the organic parts of a motorcycle design. Start with EliseiDesign at http://ely862me.webs.com/ His work is beyond words.

Good luck,

Lloyd

Gaieus,

Sorry about the slow response, I've got several photo restoration jobs and just delivered a couple of them. It would be great if I got them one per week, but like everyone else, the work comes in spurts with nothing in between. One was really interesting because the clients great grandfather was holding a gun, seemingly on the photographer, which we didn't really see until half way through the restoration that he was just displaying it. Check in out in "Examples" at my web site adifferentpicture.com

I'm afraid the model isn't anything that interesting, at least yet.

I'm just making exercises for myself to become better with SU by preconceptualizing shapes and seeing how close I can come. This one is to take a complex base outline and use it as several repeatable components of a larger structure. I need to get better at the basics before I'm able to do some of the models I would like to. So I guess it's just sort of directed playing. If anything looks worth posting out of this one, I will.

Thanks for your interest.

Lloyd

Just saw Dave R's post as I posted my reply.

Also Thank you Dave

Lloyd

Thanks Dale and Mac1,

I went back and fixed the missing line in the model and the face snapped into place.

Great plugin also. I spent a lot of time looking at other plugins.

Thanks for the response, I'm on my way.

Lloyd

How do I get this shape to a point where I can pull it up? Or...am I just going about it wrong?

Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Lloyd

Post Script: I notice a broken line in the image I'm posting, fixed it, still need to figure out how to Pull it.

Young Mr. Jedi,

Do I have this right? The change in engines is to put them on a level position and make them both the same size (they looked different in size to me on the original configuration)? Just curious if I understand you.

Another small question – if I come straight down on the turbolazer cannon will it be able to elevate to meet my attack? It looks like about a 10% blank spot in the barrel elevation angle. Wouldn’t want you discover that AFTER launch.

It is good to note (Daniel) that in this case big means “bigger projectile, or beam or whatever” which I would prefer in armed conflict, not having the mental powers of the Yoda. Side note: I’m making different titles for my Dummies Manual to put on and sit around where people can see me. Toooo… funny.

The ship looks better, and more formidable. all the time

Lloyd

Thinking about ship weaponry, have you ever read David Weber's Honor Harrington series? Possibly the most unbelievable deep space fleet battles in Science Fiction. I will never forget the unfortunate and awesome destructive power of "bomb pumped lasers", yeow!

Thanks for the clarification.
I thought I had missed something. Us literal people are in the dark half the time. Maybe it’s because we don’t think of stretching our imagination far enough to figure it out. Also, my ears always perk up when I hear “blueprint”. “Where? I want to see it!”

YogieStars,

Someday when I am brave enough to try organic modeling, I'm going to be looking at all of your work. Keep it coming

@swagen said:

Where in the whole wide world did you find that awesome blue-print? That was an incredible sketchup model!

Errrr, what blueprint?, did you see a blue print? Uh,...where was it? Did you mean the drawing of the skeleton? Is it a blueprint of a Trisera? I would like to see the blueprint also. Are you talking about this model here in progress, or a different model. I'm obviously confused. Help me out here. What blue print? Duh!!!

Lloyd

And,

Would it be possible for you to reduce the size of photos that you post? Your last one is 142+ cm wide, which is three times wider than my screen, and I have a very wide screen, so it requires me, and I presume others, to scroll and scroll and scroll to see your great work.

The 72 dpi is fine; it’s the width that makes it hard to appreciate the whole image without doing some resizing or viewing in another program.

I’m posting your image at 40+ cm just to see if it makes sense. By sizing it down to 15+ cm, it looks great on my screen. At that size I can appreciate the overall design of your building which is going to beautiful with the textures mapped. (The plus is the difference when converting from inches to centimeters, the 72dpi is “dots per inch”, I’m not sure how you designate video/monitor dot density in Europe, 2.54cm?)

You mentioned a “box” model that you work from. Did you actually mean like cardboard boxes arranged like the city? I would really like to see a photo of that is possible. I build models out of card stock and foam core, and imagine if I understood you correctly, that yours is quite a collection of boxes.

I have a lot of card stock models that I plan to use the textures from, to put onto SU models. Here is an example of a very simple model I did to introduce young people to card stock models, and you can see why I would be interested in your “box model”

So far I’ve only done a 12th Century Norwegian Stave Church model (another very simple building) in SU with my textures. http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=39872#p3524232

My biggest problem is setting aside time to get better in SU. You must have time or you work very fast. That’s why I thought you used a lot of components.

I will be watching for more of your great work.

Cheers

Lloyd

Fallon,

Yours is a very interesting post. I’m afraid I can only offer moral support. I don’t have any suggestions on how to render the images. And, I’m not sure how it is relevant or helpful, but I taught PShop for 17 years. Maybe there is something in there that might be useful to you at some point.

We have a lot of spaceship designers here. It might help your request if you could upload a better image of your model requirements (I have a Mac, and it’s SO tiny on my screen) and share some of your SU approach to designing sprites. We can’t all be designing “big” models. Some more details on your process and requirements would be helpful, especially for someone like me who is a complete SU beginner.

I’ve had to do so many projects that were “labor intensive” that most of the time I just go ahead and do it. I think you are smart in asking for short cuts, you never know when someone will come up with a killer solution, especially on SUcation.

I love commodity trading, building up a great ship, dodging pirates and cops, and have been doing so since “Sundog” on an Apple IIe in 1983. What caught my eye on EV Nova Wikipedia was that it is/might be/was playable on Mac OSX. Whatever.

In the mean time could you suggest where I should explore on the Ambrosia site to learn the most current stuff on this game and the plug-in requirements?

And…everything you do in SU will be of interest to someone on this forum, so keep letting us know what you are doing and what solutions you come up with.

For you...

Lloyd

And,

You must be familiar with the phrase "breath taking" because you keep doing it. It is hard to stop looking at your work because it just keeps astounding.

You undoubtably use repetition of components. I've enjoyed identifying some of them. Would you comment on that and also what might be some favorite techniques (in case I ever decide to do a mega model)? Is there a particular shape that saves you a lot of time or do you have one that is important to the overall design?

I noticed some flying buttresses that are a subtle accommodation to Gothic building techniques, which by the way are still in use. Most notably in the tallest building in the world, the Burj Dubai or Dubai Tower, that uses Y shaped flying buttresses

Do you differentiate the purpose of a building in your mind, or in your plan when you build it?

Speaking of a plan, do you have a "design guideline", or any preplanned approach to this model?

I didn't mean to hit you with so many questions, but once I started, they just spilled out.

Any insight you are willing to share will be greatly appreciated.

Lloyd

It worked, you clever people. My first thought was... Wow! there must be more than 403 people connected! Thanks for the response. L.

Hi,

I've just been unable to get onto the forum for a couple of hours. I get the attached message. I was able to get into Catchup and so I spent some time looking a Solo's great Artisan models so I'm happy.

However, I have a couple of questions. It this on my end, on the Internet end, or SketchUcation. I noticed when I did connect that there were/are around 70 people on, but that doesn't approach the max listed back "when".

Does anyone know what "Too many connections [1040]" is about. Should I be doing anything differently, or just remain my unbelievably patient self?

Lloyd

Hope you had a good change of year

I showed your work to some students who were at a christmas dinner. I told them I would bring some more examples of SU models and they are particularly interested in game applications. I captured several screen shots of your barns and printed them to show since there was not going to be a computer available at the dinner. They were very impressed with your work and were very glad to see the development from the initial model to the very dark and sinister version with the red light inside. They were also interested to learn of independent game developers having only thought that there were only large companies producing games. I gave them the addresses of the developers web site, and I'm sure they will go look at them. I'll let you know of any feedback that I get from them.

I've retired from teaching except for some photoshop training I do through my photography business. I've only begun working in SU. You are way ahead of me. I got the local Highschool to incorporate SU in their curriculum so I have occasion to talk with students about SU and encourage them to do challenging models.

I'll try to attach the composite I made to show the students. If it doesn't upload properly, I'll try again with a smaller file size

Lloyd