[Help] Wooden floor in Bathroom??
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Who's David?
Have you revealed the TIG's name?
I thought this was sTIG?
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Comment was addressed to Dave R as he's the woodworker in the SU family. Sorry for the confusion.
Regards,
Bob -
Dear Bob,
It appears that the flooring that Rich is using is prefinished. I would guess it has some sort of varnish on it.
I like the look of oiled wood but for a floor, varnish makes more sense. And for a bathroom or kitchen, I would think varnish would be the only practical choice. Varnish isn't a waterproofing finish but it will slow the migration of moisture into and out of the wood. Although water-based finishes are popular these days, I think and oil-based varnish would be appropriate for the application.
As I mentioned before, the wood should be sealed on all surfaces to prevent it from taking up moisture unevenly. Is the flooring prefinished on the bottom, edges and ends? If not, it would make sense to varnish those surfaces as well before laying the floor. Of course this isn't a recipe for getting the floor down quickly. In the long run, however, it is likely to involve less time than periodically repairing the floor.
Rich, would "the powers" consider my suggestion of using some other material around and under the tub?
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Aaaargh! you have one of those stupid old-fashioned baths that lets the water slop out everywhere !
In the absence of a sensible 'travertine marble' floor solution...
The grain 'cupping' is both ways which means that planks that do warp will sag/bow unexpectedly !
Chances are it won't do too much if it's already dried out / seasoned and well protected when finished...Lay the planks over a 3mm foam sheet with taped joints, with it turned up the wall by ~40mm.
Do not fix the planks to the 'chipboard' [?] sub-floor.
Make sure all edges are varnished - including the ends of any cut pieces OR the holes needed for pipes etc [these also need silicone sealing at the floor's top face].Glued the planks together with external quality water-resistant adhesive, wiping off any excess immediately.
Use an off-cut / block / 'hook' to knock the planks tight together as they are laid.
Leave a ~10mm+ gap between the wall and the floor-planks' 'slab' - wedge it around all edges to keep the joints tight until it's all dried.
Next day remove the wedges and fix a skiting/trim over the gap - bed that onto a bead of silicone sealant at the floor.Let's be sensible when using the room - gallons of warm soapy water pouring over it everyday are not going to help... clean up spills and put a mat or towel on the floor, pick it up and let it dry afterwards!
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Completely missed Dave's reply while typing TIG's response
This is turning into Abbot and Costello's 'Who's on first?'
Anyway, tiling or stone under the bath is an option..
The internal hasn't been erected yet but need it as shower won't fit between window and wall.Aaaaaahhhhhh
As for varnishing each edge. Aaaaaaahhh
Do not fix the plans to the 'chipboard' [?] sub-floor.
By plans, you mean planks? Should i take it up and put down marine board?I think i'll tile it!
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Planksit is... No need to 'fix' - just leave the timber floor floating over the main floor sheets...
PS: Many know my true name and don't use it - to do so reveals their remoteness from me...
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Thanks for all the info anyway guys! Helped alot
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Hi Rich
Sorry for the late reply and bumping the thread again. I have been away recovering from a wee heart attack!! I have a lot of experience in laying floors of all types and TIG has provided some sterling advice (as usual, I might add). Just one thing to be careful of with this type of flooring if you are going to varnish / lacquer the tongue and groove edges is that you dont layer it on thick as it might interfere with the jpoint (ie prevent you from being able to put the tongue into the groove after it has been glued). This has happened to me in the past due to badly machined timber and it is a feckin nightmare - you have to get the glue completely cleaned off using a wet rag and then dried down.
Also whenyou are gluing the floor make sure you get a continuous bead of glue along the joint to form perfect seal agaist water ingress. If you don not get squeeze out along the full length of the plank then there is a gap into which water will go, especially in a bathroom.
Good luck.
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Hi Dermot,
To be honest i kinda given up on the lovely oak floored bathroom and will go the tile route! Now to offload some flooring, or have one expensive bonfire?
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Dear Dermot,
I hope you are fully recovered from your 'wee heart attack'. Presumably, you have been told to change your life style, which probably means less time in front of the screen. Good luck with your long-term recovery.
Kind regards,
Bob -
Rich,
I laid solid oak flooring to all the floors in my house back about 17 years ago. The 1st floor bathroom and en-suite were done also laid on 19mm ply and secret nailed!
The advised you are getting is sound. I allowed a gap (about 3mm) every metre. Don't forget to install a good extractor fan over the shower,
Mike
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There is a local restaurant here in Phoenix with Oak flooring except that the Oak is a very convincing ceramic tile. This does not lend itself to architectural purism, but it might please the higher power and avoid a rotting mess in the long run.
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She won in the end....
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I wondered what happened with this project. It looks pretty nice.
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Love the finished look. Of course she was always going to get her way - she just let you think you were going to tile it!!! Make sure the word on the piece of paper in the bath doesnt happen too much on yer floor lad!!
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I've yet to use it....
(Don't think I'll ever be allowed)
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Nice bathroom Rich!
We're about to do the same here. But the wooden floor is completely shagged!
It's also much smaller in size, but I knocked this up in SU the other day...Not really room to 'swing a cat'. Oh well, at least I can sit on the john and stare out of the window!
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