Posts made by tomsdesk

The number of segments of any entity that lists as a circle or an arc can be changed in the "entity info" toolbar. Go into or explode the autocad imported component and change the number of segments of arcs and circles as desired.

Randall, I get the same model as before...no columns or new windows?
I'll check again tomorrow.

Ian...I played with your image a bit this morning as well, reducing the size as Gaieus suggested, also reducing the color depth of the image (which helps with file size a lot). Of course the more you do to reduce size the more the image degrades.

The question is begged: how you are going to use them...? To me, the degraded image actually integrates into an SU model better than the beautiful and crisp original. But if my focus were entirely the plant materials I'd be less inclined to do much to them.

Also, I did a little test of 50 components...one using your 1.7meg image, one using my 140k image, both using Smustard's edges: no noticeable difference orbiting, etc. The only difference was the file size (the 1.6meg difference between the two image sizes). I'm thinking, but I don't have several large images, or the time, to test it, there may not be the problem you'd expect using the larger images since the extra bytes are contained within the image definition, and not spread out in extra 3d computations...you gurus can comment on this?

Anyway, looks to me the Smustard service is doing everything it has promised...I played a little with it during beta testing (it worked well then) and the edges seem to be a bit tighter and fewer in number now. Gai is right about reducing them for added functionality of a big model (if you really need this for some use), and I think (can't prove) a component with a unexploded image and a separate cut up shadow face is a bit "faster"...plus, you also have no image constraints while determining the shadow's configuration and the edge count you can bear. (But what a beautiful shadow it makes now!)

As far as 2.5d...a quick and dirty is to simply rotate the top of the image back a few degrees (I usually use 10deg, 15deg seems to be the max before this trick becomes obvious to me). Beyond that, it is a matter of cutting up the image and building some minimal 3d illusion as you start looking more from the top of the component always facing you.

Last question first: yes.

Now the first...but first: any question about smoothing is absolutely not dumb, I still think the amount of smoothing is something of a mystery. Anyway, the line/edge isn't gone...just go into the "view" pulldown menu and select "hidden geometry".

If I'm understanding (if not please post a model or at least a pic):

The curve will push pull as faces with smoothed edges between (hidden with hidden geometry and so acting like a single face). Smooth the edge between the curved face and the flat face and the flat face will become part of the curved face when hidden geometry is not visible.

Yeah, orbiting to the right view is critical...seems to work like the rotate tool: what "vanishing plane" the second point of the rectangle is in determines the orientation of the new face.

Marc,

If you right click a material in the "in model" page of the materials browser, and select "select": all of the faces of that material will be selected...so you only have to paint one of the faces to paint them all.

But...it won't select faces inside groups (or other groups if you are inside a group). So (because I usually group stuff by "story") I always have to do the above a few times (inside the roof group, each story group, etc.) Also, if I have enough like windows and doors to use components, each will require going through the process too.

Still...one face per is pretty fast, since you mostly don't have to orbit to find an easy one to hit.

Carlo,

I didn't download your model, so sorry if any internal complexity makes this answer impossible:

in the "camera" pull-down menu uncheck "perspective"

chose one of the standard views (front, back, sides)

use a window selection to pick all the stuff from the roof and down to below the first floor windows, then move them down 3'8"

unselect all, then again pick the roof down to below the second floor windows, then move that stuff down too

all better!

If I'm off base let me know and I'll download and check closer...good luck and WELCOME!

Awwww Stu...you missed me. (Wasn't playing hard to get, really :`)

Ahhhhh Spring...when they all get silly, young and old, neutered or not!

Glad to provide some grins with my greens guys (and a couple of you need to be watching out for that proverbial bar of soap :`) I've never found a definition of the difference between a shrub and a bush...but count on my calling my little plants "shrubs" from now on! (LOL)

Thanks and best, Tom.

Been off my growie game lately so did me a bush this afternoon (thinkin' of ya Stu :`) I've started making the files face-me so don't have the nested component when inserted, though may go back to puting several made components in one file for copy/paste (your opinions please).

Download Model

Enjoy if you want, and best, Tom.
This process works like a champ! Thanks Kelly!!

Gidon, thanks...nice work!
This goes perfect with my safara piano...best, Tom.

Uncle Joe, welcome aboard! Great work as always...again with the homey lighting quiet atmosphere respite along the great "way". Well done!

Can you post a picture of what you are wanting to do? (worth a thousand:`)

For a quarter circle I don't use guides, since I have pure control with endpoints...but either way: If cutting a 90deg from either a half-circle made with the arc tool, or whole circle with the circle tool, make sure the number of sides of the arc (or circle) is divisible by 2 (or 4)...then the angle of the terminal edge is the same on both ends.

If you use the arc tool method below, any number of sides will do and the angles will be the same.

Cool! Thanks James!

Maggy,

Here's a quick (and not particularly well done) foggy just to prove you were right. Instead of SU's feature I used a MuRa's Meister Cloud layer in the middle of the build, set to screen and cut around the foregound branches. I can see great possibilities if done with care, thanks.

As far as the tut...please go for it, no such thing as plagiarism when you teach and/or share knowledge. For a student like myself: more is way better...hope to trek the Maggy mile soon!

Best, Tom.

Eric...once you take the seats out, an ol'VW can haul anything you can wiggle in thru the doors (the rear seats of all my bugs spent more time behind the couch in the livingroom, since I rarely had a garage, than in the car :`). DWC I picked up from some forum somewhere...most everyone on the old SU forums just called them watercolors, I think.

Kelly...all the PS compatible filters I've tried work in PSP. Side Merge is a free DC filter (picked it up going after BeyondEdger4 for Grant's/Ross's tech, along with Jaggedge...which I use on most every image). Side Merge adds transparency, none to all: you choose how much, from one side to the other: you choose the angle, to an image layer. So if you want to darken the shadows, set a shadows only layer to Burn (or multiply, or darken), hit side merge...adjusting where you want the effect to start and how you want it to fade. Same goes for a screen layer to lighten, etc. I find it is a pretty handy filter and sometimes build up several from different directions. If you get real tricky you can merge various levels of other effects using several layers.

Maggy...great idea! The ground plane does need broken up with some extra noise, and the image as a whole could use some real atmosphere happ'nin'. Thanks.

My best to you all (the interest make me smile a lot), Tom.

Eric, thanks, it's alot of fun doing something imaginary for a change...lots of poetic license (I'd bet I'm not done with this one yet :`).

Yeah, the Vdub van is pretty nostalgic for me too: my best buddy (still) had one for a couple of years way back in college...though I only rode in it a couple of times 'cause it was always broken down. Just did a search to verify this one's a Brandon. I plan to eventually do some more realistic modifications: like rusty wheelwells and lots of top dents from people sitting on it.

Lady in the tent: You'll find, if you are not too embarrased (sort of a pun, huh?) to look, she has on a very-VERY skimpy thong...would an English gentleman post a full nude? (i.e., blame Alan if it offends :`)

DWC: digital watercolor

PSP: paint shop pro

AP: atmospheric perspective...what I do most of the time is really sort of an insult to the term. For these quickies (most all I do so far) I use a shadows only layer set to burn, side merged to darken the foreground shadows the most. On these I also side merged the top SU only layer, set to screen, to lighten the background the most. If done right, there would instead be hours of time spent with lighten/darken, sat/desat, soften/sharpen, etc., brushes...painting away until every and all was perfect. (So much to do, so little time.)

Glad you asked, always good to make a student "organize" his thoughts.
Best, Tom.

Hi,

Been working toward being able to send presentation models (to be viewed with SU Viewer) that have a softer "wet" look. I think I'm pretty close with the landscape components I've been building lately, and am working over materials and their use as I can or need them.

Posting this "holiday grins" camping composition (my thanks to Stu, Ron, Alan, and all the "namelost but not forgotten" for the fun stuff I used) as a progress report. Sure would appreciate any comments and help with my endeavor...my eye only looks one direction at a time.

Thanks and best, Tom.

Edit: Oh yeah, the top is "straight" (with some AP shadow and screening PSP work), the bottom is a DWC.

Edit2: Since the new 600 pixel width limit makes it hard to read the fine points of landscapes and buildings here's a detail (has no PSP enhancement): any help you can give me making the straight SU look more like a loose sketch presentation will be studied with great interest, thanks.