Failed proof load? I assume that means your stand wasn't up to snuff then.
Perhaps I should invest in some steel for this.... The only "important" reason for the post design is to be able to mount any size TV I want at the proper height. If I was just designing it for a specific TV I would simply build something to set it on top of with its included stand.
According to that article that will work if you can copy over the actual .exe file. However I have not tested it myself.
You CAN view the contents of the clipboard. It most certainly exists as a default tool in an OS. At least in windows XP, possibly earlier.
@unknownuser said:
To display the clipboard content, user can do it by running clipbrd.exe and it will show you the clipboard content once it is launched. Clipbrd.exe comes together with Windows XP and it is located under C:\WINDOWS\system32. In order to access this utility in faster way, you can create a shortcut and put it in your desktop. Follow below steps to create the shortcut for this utility:
- Right click on the empty area on desktop, then select New->Shortcut.
- The ‘Create Shortcut window’ will pop up, type: %windir%\System32\clipbrd.exe and click Next button.
- Type a name for this shortcut as you like, for example: Clipbrd.exe then click Finish button to create the shortcut on your desktop.
Of course often this stuff is gibberish. But if you are copying text or entire files it will show the text/name of the file/whatever.
There are also 3rd party apps that will show it, as the poster above me stated.
Good information in the couple days I've been out.
As for not having a TV, trust me when I say I agree. I haven't watched TV on my own (without her begging me to "spend time with her" after work or something in years.
However, I won't complain about a big screen I can hook my PS3/Xbox360 up to. Currently I use my two computer monitors for them.
As for the base of this thing, it will be your typical TV stand. 18-20 inches deep and probably 50+ inches wide. Her current tv stand is a dresser that is 18x54x30 ish. Has enough room for her 32", and the various video devies stacked up next to it. That fills up 100% of the width of it.
A typical 55 inch (the biggest she said she would ever buy, and I agree) is about 52 inches wide I think. But having the bottom 30 inches up is way too high for a screen that big.
So what I was thinking was something about 20-24 inches high, with a post to mount the TV on just because it looks better like that.
Something with similar dimensions to this:
The item has been discontinued or we have moved the page.
StandsandMounts.com | TV Stands and TV Mounts | Free Shipping (www.standsandmounts.com)
Except it won't be 600 dollars... Those things are pretty darn stable, the only way it can fall is backwards.
I might actually look into having something fabricated out of steel. I don't know how to weld, but my uncle does and has the tools to do it. We also know companies that can cut the pieces for low cost to me. That might actually be easier to do.
@unknownuser said:
For me, being an experienced woodworker, once I've drawn a SketchUp model of a project, going to the shop to build it is like building it for the second time. I've worked out the issues while drawing the project so they don't crop up later.
I absolutely agree and so do many MANY other woodworkers. I wish I had this software in highschool when i was last particularly active in actually making things.
When you are familiar enough with a tool, its easy to visualize how your cuts will be made. I can only imagine how true this is for those with more experience than I have. This means you can essentially go over the entire build process WHILE you design it.
Thats what I was thinking, I just like to ask people with some experience in the matter before replacing expensive things xD
Thanks again!
@honoluludesktop said:
I would go to a store that sells TVs and stands, look for a similar setup, then study the case that supports it.
They are all steel. That was my first try lol
The GF wants a TV stand built to add to the list of things we have when we get an apartment/house/trailer/whatever. So along with my desk I will probably be building this too. It will be similar to my desk with the whole post setup. Now, I was wondering... how much weight can a post like that hold?
The reason I ask is because she has a 36 inch tv right now, however she is planning on buying a 55. Those things weigh upwards and sometimes more than 50 lbs. Not counting the weight of the mount.
If I do a glue-up of three boards, most of the strength should be edgewise, meaning the strongest way leaves the seam facing the user? Not a big deal with proper finishing of course.
I just don't want a thousand dollar TV falling off the thing in the middle of the night.
To clarify how this will be mounted, basically a vertical post with a 50 lb weight hanging off one side of it, with no support at the top.
I assume 3x3+ should be enough, but I would like to be sure.
@mac1 said:
Masta
Just open your skp. Concerned about the feet location and possible over turning of the desk if someone sits on it unless you have it stabilized some other way . The rotation will be when the cg gets out side of the fall axis based on loads. The monitors are probably not real heavy so the axis you need to look at is between the two outside legs. You probably want a safety factor so 1.5 x design weight maybe
The top edge of the center section butts up against and sits on top of the two side sections, then is bolted to them.
I share your concern though, believe me. I am looking at how I can possibly make it more stable but it would involve putting legs where I don't want them. Ultimately the stability of the thing depends on it being whole I think.
Plus if anyone sits on the center section of my desk I will beat them with a dead fish. 99% of the time there will be a chair in the way anyways.
Not so much a WIP as it is "something to play with".
In the past I did a lot of screwing around with small models and kerkythea. A lamp in a closed room with normal mapped walls comes to mind, as does my current avatar (lol) I made a glass version of those little plastic toy snakes that they give away at grade school fairs. That turned out pretty good. I don't have the model any longer, but I managed to save the images.
Anyways, my textures are terrible. In fact, they basically don't exist outside of SU textures and a couple of tweaks in kerkythea to properties. The computer, keyboard, mouse, and chair I pulled from the warehouse. The desk is all my own, and hope to build it in reality one of these days. The speakers, coaster, cup, and monitors are a combined total of 10 minutes of effort.
Here is what it looks like after 48 minutes in Kerkythea, since I rendered the original at 4500x2500+
My soft shadows turned out to be not so soft though.
Lots of extra cuts that way. Then you would have to cut each piece slightly over-sized (4 pieces at ~3 cuts each), glue it all up, hand plane the joints smooth. Gluing alone is a hassle with the odd shape.
Much more work than gluing up 4 pieces of 1 1/16"x 4 1/4" then planing it to 4" square, making 4 cuts and some minor hand finishing.
Plus it wouldn't be quite as strong as a solid piece.
Yeah, I was actually out in LaCrosse and Onalaska not too long ago doing a stop for work. I'm clear across an entire state from you but, close enough.
Anyways, I've made cuts like that before. Yes, there are safety concerns. But... A TRICK!
After making the first cut, tap a small piece of thin scrap across the cut using a couple small finish nails or a staple (cut the piece a bit longer than the final length if you are worried about the holes) on either end. As long as it holds, you don't have to worry about launching a strip of wood into yourself or the wall behind you.
It will also prevent the piece from tipping down into the blade. Takes a couple seconds and just about ensures you won't mess up the cut or kill yourself with a piece of kickback turned bullet. Something I learned in highschool after making a cut like this and doing exactly what you described on the first attempt.
As for the stock, I was actually thinking about gluing up 3/4 and planing it to a 4" square. I am well aware of stock being less than its "intended" dimensions. I would probably do the same to make the 2" pieces. Not sure what I will be making the whole thing out of, but oak is likely since I am familiar with the stuff.
I will probably see if I can find a lumberyard that carries rough stock at true dimensions. One of the first things I learned was how to process 5/4 stock into basically anything. Including 48x30" sheets.
All kinds of stuff. Basically every hand tool you would ever need. Planer, jointer, scroll saw, drill press, table saw, compound miter saw, a combination oscillating spindle/disc sander, grinding wheel, buffing wheel, lathe, bandsaw.
All manner of hand power tools: drills, palm sanders, TONS of Dremels (of various models, he was on the ideas board or whatever its called for Dremel here in Racine)... Not sure I can even come close to naming all the tools available to me.
I don't think there is any basic type of woodworking project that cannot be completed in his shop. Certain very particular techniques requiring a very specific tool might be out of reach though, but I think I can live with that.
And most important:
Dozens and dozens of clamps of varying sizes and types.
@dave r said:
That's what I had in mind. There's probably some sort of dado set in your grandfather's shop. It's a stack of blades to go on the table saw. You'll have to make several passes with it to get the width--max for the dado set is usually 3/4". You could do a mortise and tenon joint but it would be a little more of a challenge to get right. Not much but a little.
I think I would still forgo the channel on the back and make it flat. That's easier and you'll still have room for cable tie holders. You'll have more room at the bottom for the foot hardware.
Remember, count 'em when you go in and again when you come out. The number is supposed to be the same.
Im about 80% sure he never had a set of dado blades, otherwise I will just use those. Much easier than trying to hold the board at some odd angle on a drill press. I'll probably just use the table saw to make them, when the time comes.
As for the channel, the idea is to be able to hide all the cables entirely. If I made it flat they would still be visible from either side. Cutting the channel is much easier than trying to cut it at an angle. Two passes over the saw and its done. but once I have the back cut, that front face will be easier.
Cutting the flat front on that post will be harder by far. It doesn't go all the way down. As for there being room on the bottom of the foot, the area at the bottom is essentially three 2x2 squares in an L shape. The foot has more wood to go into on the post than any other ones.
I don't want to sound like I am arguing your point though! I do see what you are saying.
@dave r said:
I like the change you've made to the back corner and to the right side. I think you could mange without the channel cut in the back of that leg, though. Instead of joining the diagonal braces to the legs as you've shown, you could get more strength with lap joints.
You mean like this?
Thats doable. Didn't even think about that, I was wondering how I could do that better. I can certainly make that cut, but whats the best way to do it? Running it across the table saw a dozen times is one way, but I also have a mortise attachment for the drill press that would make that easy. I could even run the diagonal piece right THROUGH the center of the leg if I go that route. Forget the name of that joint...Would just have to pound together a small jig to hold it, hell, I might even have one already.
The channel cut into the back of the post is so I can staple in some of those plastic ties to hold power/monitor cables. If anything I'd like it to be a bit larger, but I don't like to have structural things break on me. The only reason it runs all the way to the floor is because it might be simpler just to make the cut down the entire length rather than try and only do part of it.
In case you are wondering how I have all these tools and only half a brain to put them to use, its because my grandfather (who recently passed away) had a very large collection of woodworking tools. It has since been passed on to myself and my cousin, who likes to carve. I know how to USE pretty much every basic tool you can name, and a few of the more specialized things like kreg jigs, mortise attachments, stuff like that.
So the functional experience is there to be able to do a lot of stuff, but only now do I have sufficient space (to put it) and money to buy materials. Designing things is another story, so I do greatly appreciate suggestions.
The texture is a bit off in some places, but I think I have a suitable method for attaching that post now.
Sorry about the big file size. I think its the .gif I have on the screens xD
@ledisnomad said:
Have you ever used McMaster-Carr? There are packages of 12 for as little as $3.50: http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-feet/=bqads0.
Thumbs up for awesome.
@dave r said:
Is the notch in the rear leg to allow cables to pass through from the monitors? If you plan to build this in sections, you might add some legs to the center one on either side of the "knee hole" so it'll stand up on its own.
Yeah thats what the notch is for.
I need to work on that considerably. I don't like the way that post is currently at all. Open for suggestions. The way it is now, there is nothing stopping it from just falling forward, short of throwing a couple bolts into it.
As for the t-nuts, it was just an example about prices of things in bulk compared to going to the hardware store. I'll really just be using them in the construction of the monitor stand. The "swivels" are so over-designed I don't think they will have any trouble holding the weight of a single monitor.
Oh I wouldn't think of using tee nuts for anything as substantial as legs. I'm sure it can be done but would involve more work than its worth. I like to save some money but I also like things to be done "right" (depending on who's definition you go with) but mostly I like things to last.
Just so you guys know, the right "wing" of the desk won't simply be supported by a single piece of 3/4. Im building in a 3-4 inch wide cabinet for my extra keyboards and wires and stuff. And yes I realize the three-legged approach with the center section is prone to tipping forward if it were on its own.
