Timber types
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You are welcome, glad I could share this. The attached image is a book and butt matched Mahogany crotch. These, if cropped at the right places, will tile seamlessly. Just like if you have a stack of consecutive veneers to cut for a table top. If you are just book matching (most common for long pieces) you only need to crop out a book matched pair. With book and butt you need two wide and two long.
Dan
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All I've been able to manage is this, which uses a jpeg of some burr elm veneer which I used on a credenza I made. I did use a plugin by Chris Fuller via this site to fill in every area at one stroke wich is very handy
but as you can see to loose the tile effect made the burr really big! but I'll keep looking and experimenting.The finished items alway look better than the sketchup's IMHO
Thanks for taking the time to help
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A link for some more unusual veneers, go though all the available pages at the left!
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@bloonose said:
...but as you can see to loose the tile effect made the burr really big!
Unfortunately, even with the material scaled up, the effect is still there. As I said before, highly figured grains don't work so well because at some point the image will repeat. You need to find images of larger pieces of wood. It would be nice to be able to get good images of both faces of all the boards in a tree along with the ends and edges. That would really give you a great deal of flexibility.
The link you posted is interesting. It's too bad the samples aren't lit better and aren't longer.
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Dave I agree with you on the problem of repeating grain patterns, for most wood you need long samples for them to look natural. And for them to look good each texture needs to be carefully mapped to the component. Unless you are using veneer they need to be from different boards or at least different parts of a board. If you look at the drawer faces on the Cherry cabinet in my previous post you will see what a quick and dirty job I did on that. If they were veneer they should match and if solid should not, they do neither really. The exceptions would be burls and crotches. These are normally not very big to start with and are commonly booked and butted. On the top of the credenza, if I was building it, I would use 2 wide book matched and at least 6 long, and more likely 4 wide by 8 long. This makes for small pieces, but with much burl you would be lucky to get 10" x 14" usable pieces anyway. When done it should look fairly convincing.
Here is another site that has some decent samples of panels that are about 4' long, the actual images are about 700 pixels long. http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/index.html
Look under samples. They are big enough to be useful but not perfect.
Dan -
Incredible woodtextures can be found at Arroway textures
http://www.arroway-textures.com/en/products/wood-1/contentsI use these myself and I would not like anything larger for a texture really. Have a look at the other wood textures as well and the user gallery. I think this is the best and worth it.
yesterday I made this table with it
http://homepage.mac.com/fillieverhoeven/leaves/large-3.htmlI am not advertising I hope, I am just a customer who loves to share his joy about something great,
Francois -
The free versions of the Arroway textures are good for a lot of furniture sized items.
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I agree, especially if the textures are just used within Sketchup. If you want to render in close up you might need the bigger ones.
Francois -
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If you're doing fancy veneering, good luck!
This article will show you how to turn "Wood_Cherry_Original" into a variety of lighter and darker woods that work for models. http://www.MartinRinehart.com/models/tutorial/tutorial_ww_tip_01.html
If your goal is a beautiful model, this isn't enough. If your goal is a beautiful finished piece, the model doesn't have to have perfect grains.
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