How much time to spend on texture fixing?
-
In the photo match tutorials I have seen, the photos have always been absent of trees, power poles and wires etc. During my time modeling my city, Wollongong, NSW, Australia, I have found this rarely happens. I spend a lot of time removing trees and cables, cars and people, and fixing the perspective errors on protrusions like terraces. It can take a good 3 hours for me using paintshop, much longer if the tree hides a lot of the building. Is this too long? Am I being too fussy?
Just curious how others handle these sort of problems.
On another but related topic, compact cameras I have used are all a bit wide angle at turn on and it seems imposible to change this. This makes photo modeling hard even though I try to correct it using paintshop's tools. I took a photo of a notice board and found 25% fixed it so that is the amount I use on all my photos.
Thanks
-
I've never used photomatch to texture models. I take lots of images of the façades, stitch them together, and apply them manually.
-
Well, photomatch or not, this can indeed cause problems. And yes, if you want to be a "perfectionist", you sometimes spend more with the textures than the model itslef.
As for wide angle cameras, their (barrel) distortion and the fix, there is a nifty, little tool called GML Undistorter (surely a lot of plugins for various image editors have similar tools). It won't fix the perspective but at least the barrel distortion and can use EXIF data (I don't know if compact cameras provide that, though) as well as manual adjustment. With the EXIF data it's pretty speedy and can do it batch mode.
-
I never use textures. OK, once in a while, but rearely. And I very rarely position them when I do use them.
-
@gaieus said:
And yes, if you want to be a "perfectionist", you sometimes spend more with the textures than the model itslef.
I completely agree with Gaieus. I usually spend more time in Paintshop than in SU.
When I'm building models of my town, some of the streets are very narrow, so it's impossible to get more than, say 3 or 4 meters away from the building. I use a mosaic approach, i.e., take a lot of small photos, correct for barrel distortion and perspective, then fit them together in one bigger image. I often need to use the clone tool with low hardness to clean up the edges of the constituant images.
Hope this helps,
Tom -
@mknorr said:
In the photo match tutorials I have seen, the photos have always been absent of trees, power poles and wires etc. During my time modeling my city, Wollongong, NSW, Australia, I have found this rarely happens.
There's a judgement call here. By all means get rid of cars and people. Trees, bushes, etc. are sometimes OK. It depends on how close they are to ther building wall. I've learned to think more about the final model when I'm shooting photos. So, for example, I sometimes take pictures on Sunday morning when there are fewer cars parked. Also, I wait a few seconds for pedestrians to pass befor clicking the picture to save editing work later.
Tom
-
@twharvey said:
@mknorr said:
In the photo match tutorials I have seen, the photos have always been absent of trees, power poles and wires etc. During my time modeling my city, Wollongong, NSW, Australia, I have found this rarely happens.
There's a judgement call here. By all means get rid of cars and people. Trees, bushes, etc. are sometimes OK. It depends on how close they are to ther building wall. I've learned to think more about the final model when I'm shooting photos. So, for example, I sometimes take pictures on Sunday morning when there are fewer cars parked. Also, I wait a few seconds for pedestrians to pass befor clicking the picture to save editing work later.
Tom
To add to this, best time of year is when there's no leaves on the trees. And to avoid hard shadows that might conflict with your own SU shadows, take photos on a clouded day.
-
@thomthom said:
And to avoid hard shadows that might conflict with your own SU shadows, take photos on a clouded day.
Definitely a good suggestion. Hard shadows are almost as bad as cars and people in front of the building. Also, take pictures a bit over-saturated (set the camera to "cloudy" or something). It's always easier to decrease colours than to add them and lively colours can even "pretend to add details" to a SU model where you need to compress the images anyway and dull pictures just don't look good.
-
-
seems will cost 350$ in june? (see somewhere on the net)
Not very different than the photomatch inside except the fact of the multi-camera
article by the conceptor
Advertisement